How do I clean a Diesel fuel tank?

[LHirshman]

I purchased a used 33 gallon tank, from a salvage yard, to use as an auxiliary fuel tank.
The tank had fuel in it for a long time, possibly years. The tank is in fine shape but needs cleaning.

Internally there is a black asphalt residue coating, most likely from the days before low sulfur fuel.

My thought is to put a few gallons of gasoline in it to dissolve the residue, drain it and use kerosene to flush out the gas.

Comments, suggestions, advise would be most welcome!

 

[Tuesdak]

Find a commercial radiator shop (that does the big yellow iron jobs too) and pay them like $150 to 'boil it out'. You may also be dealing with bugs in the fuel from sitting so long. Gasoline or the boil out will take care of them. Be aware of rust spots and don't use it if you see any after cleaning on HPCR systems as the risk of trash from the rusty spots is not worth injector damage and related cost.

New aftermarket tanks may be cheaper than the $150 labor for clean out...

 

[sag2]

I have not had to clean one that had old fuel sitting in it, but for normal "contamination" drain and wipe them out with a clean rag through the fuel pump opening. Most tanks can be cleaned by using this process as the opening is not usually at one end of the tank.

 

[Crunch]

I agree with JDoremire, and would be cautious about using it if a new aftermarket tank is reasonably priced compared to getting it cleaned. If you do use it, I would recommend additional fuel filtration on top of what is already on the tank (I'm guessing that there is a canister filter on the tank?) until you are satisfied that nothing is going to come loose and trash your injectors.

 

[AnOldBiker]

With the cost of what could happen to your truck verses the money you save going with a used tank, I feel it's not worth it. Years ago I got a free spare tank and had it cleaned, but not for my truck, but for my Grandfathers farm tractor. Even though it was professionally cleaned, it developed flakes and we had to repair Gramps tractor.

I have an inbed tank and highly suggest saving and spending for a quality aluminum tank.
Once there and you get useto having it, it will be there for a very long time.
And even though mine was brand new, I still flushed mine out before 1st use.
Cheap security cost for my engine.

 

[LHirshman]

Thank you all for your advise. Now some more questions.

Regarding rust, the outside of the tank has no rust, there was about 25 gallons of fuel in the tank before I purchased it, do you think there is rust inside the tank?

I had planned to use a CAT 1R-0750 filter for this tank to truck tank transfer.
From what I have read this filter is the cat's meow (yup, pun there), is there a better choice for filter?

Is the Donaldson P5513 filter equivalent to the CAT?

Does anyone know the pressure drop vs flow rate for the CAT 1R-0750?

This question probably belongs on another thread but here goes.
Does the stock, in tank lift pump, have enough omph to feed a stock engine with a CAT 1R-0750 filter installed in the truck fuel feed to the stock filter?
I have seen filter systems that add a similar filter without an additional pump.

 

[Tuesdak]

Nice picture of a CAT filter saving the primitive injection system on a 6.5 here. It has a 15 PSI plunger pump, Walbro, for a lift pump ahead of it.

I prefer the plastic tanks like the modern pickups have like the aftermarket Titan brand. No metal to corrode and feed the bugs. The plastic tanks literally wipe clean. Internal rust is what matters to fuel contamination and injector life. the outside of the tank is hardly relevant.

Old fuel turns into varnish and gets corrosive. So if you get all the varnish and what used to be fuel out internal rust is a big unknown. Any metal tank is coated, painted, etc to keep the water and fuel from eating holes through the tank. Old coatings tend to flake off with Biodiesel exposure and I imagine old fuel doesn't help their lifespans. Used tanks - Not a big deal for primitive injection systems as they are cheap to replace.

 

[AnOldBiker]

I use the Donaldson P551313 and it's rated at 3 microns per Donaldson.
I believe, but not positive, the Cat 1R-0750 is rated the same.
When you get this low in microns, either is good. Just look for the better price per filter.

As for the question; if the lift pump has enough 'omph' to feed a stock engine.

I have a water/fuel pre filter before my P551313 and the original filter in the stock engine filter housing, (I like the moisture indicator Dodge gave on the dash) and there is plenty of flow / pressure to keep your truck running in either empty or when pulling a fully loaded 10k trailer. I can verify that for I had my trailer fully loaded when I retired and moved from California to Tennessee and had no issue.

 

[BDaugherty]

The radiator shop I used will clean and re-line steel tanks. It take a week or so to complete the process but the end result is very good. We send out a lot of Ford tanks for this service due to the factory lining peeling off after a few years. The new lining is red and seems to hold up forever.

 

[promisedland]

I use the Donaldson P551313 and it's rated at 3 microns per Donaldson.
I believe, but not positive, the Cat 1R-0750 is rated the same.
When you get this low in microns, either is good. Just look for the better price per filter.

As for the question; if the lift pump has enough 'omph' to feed a stock engine.

I have a water/fuel pre filter before my P551313 and the original filter in the stock engine filter housing, (I like the moisture indicator Dodge gave on the dash) and there is plenty of flow / pressure to keep your truck running in either empty or when pulling a fully loaded 10k trailer. I can verify that for I had my trailer fully loaded when I retired and moved from California to Tennessee and had no issue.

If this was for me....
I added a 3micron filter between the OEM canister and my CP3 and my lift pump psi is good with a 100 more hp then stock. Next i am adding a water sep. 12micron filter before the OEM canister. I expect this will be just fine. [lift pump psi]
And yes... i DO have a gauge

 

[LHirshman]

WRT adding an additional filter between the stock filter and the CP3 pump, I found that same setup on,

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...30-cat-2-micron-mounted-apps-can-done-10.html

How does that affect starting in 0ºF temperatures? The heater is in the stock filter and there is quite a bit of fuel in the new filter.

Do you have a parts list of the various fittings, hoses, etc., required?

 

[promisedland]

I dont know much about the fuel heater... i quess i have one?? We seldom see 0*
I bought a Wix 24770 filter head and got my fittings and fuel hose at the hardware store. no part #ers, i like the JIC hyd fittings as you dont need sealing tape etc... also i have a JIC fitting on a 'T' and use the JIC cap so i can bleed air out when needed.

I since added a fuel hose to a gauge so i can moniter Lift Pump PSI. And yes, The bracket is 'ME' made!

 

[LHirshman]

I am planning on the same setup as you have shown. I have the filters and the filter adapter. The bracket will take some doing.
At what mileage interval do you change the CAT Fuel Filter?

 

[AnOldBiker]

I was told to do it at 20k or once per year, which ever came first.