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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) How do I fix my leaky transfer case?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) questions, questions,quesions.......

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My transfer case is leaking at the gasket for the real tail housing, how hard of a fix is this? Does it just basically come off the back of the transfer case or is it more complicated than that?
 
I had mine replaced under warranty, but it is a known problem with an updated part # for the replacement seal. Do a search.
 
Are you talking about the rear seal where the driveshaft comes out? Mine is leaking forward of the rear seal where the tail section bolts to the main body, there is a gasket there.
 
my 2001 was leaking where the drive shaft exits and Dodge installed a new seal under warranty. They said they had some bad seals. Have no idea how tough a job it was though. . kts
 
Oh, sorry, i understand now.

You're talking about splitting the case like a watermelon instead of the rear shaft seal. I wish I knew how to do it. Maybe someone with a service manual can add insight.
 
If you have a HD case (PTO cover on the passenger side) then you have a rubber plug on the top of the extension housing.

This plug has been revised because it collapses. If it leaks it will look like the rear seal or sometimes the gasket is leaking. Check for the HD case on the VIN build sheet, window sticker, or by the presence of the PTO plate. The rear seal has been revised several times too, it is easy to install if you have a suitable driver.

Get a manual if you teardown beause the oil pump sits right there between the case and tailshaft housing.
 
Originally posted by Tejas Deezul

If you have a HD case (PTO cover on the passenger side) then you have a rubber plug on the top of the extension housing.

This plug has been revised because it collapses. If it leaks it will look like the rear seal or sometimes the gasket is leaking.



You mean that the 6 seals that I've replaced may not be leaking at all??:confused: :mad: The Seal that may actually be leaking is a plug on top of the TC extension housing?

Is their a part number for the plug or any type of fix for it?



I checked my seal today and it's leaking like always. I figure it will keep my truck from rusting out from these New England winters. :rolleyes:
 
I too have had problems

with leaks that appear to be transfer case output seal or tailshaft housing gasket. I replaced the output seal when I did the clutch job and it still leaked I kept wiping off the atf and trying to see what gets wet first finally found the plug leaking, plug was fine but the VENT was pluged, the transfer case vent and the vaccum vent go together (at least on mine) and go somewhere unknown so I blew out the vent with low psi air and have not seen a drop of atf on the ground or hanging off the tailshaft housing yet :D I replaced the seal for no reason just didn't look hard enough, but it is farly cheap under coating ;) !



Craig
 
mine seems to be leaking at either 2 or 3, I will check the vent this weekend maybe I will get lucky and that will be it. The rear seal leaks a very little but not much. Thanks guys I will check everything again this weekend.
 
Position 2 uses a steel and rubber gasket.



Position 3 uses silicone. Position 3 is where mine leaked and was a result of a porous casting. My dealer service replaced the Xfr Case.
 
I discovered mine leaking when I was under the truck for something else. It initially appeared that the leak was coming from one of the case split joints, but careful inspection revealed that the rear seal was the culprit. Fluid was running down the tailshaft housing to the more forward location where it was dripping off the transfer case. My case is a 241HD.



I changed the rear seal. The job was very simple and can be done with a punch or chisel and hammer. The first step is to drain the fluid. Even if you do drain the transfer case, some fluid will still run out the tail when the driveshaft is removed. While the fluid is draining, remove the rear driveshaft. Remove the four small (8mm wrench) bolts from the u-joint at the axle. Pry or otherwise loosen the u-joint. Wrap the joint with tape to keep the bearing caps installed. Pull the shaft from the case, and be prepared for fluid on your floor. Use a pan or rag to avoid my mistake.



The original seal was as previously described here. There was a rear black neoprene dust cover. Beneath that was the actual seal. The dust cover just pulls off, but you have to pull fairly hard. The way to remove the seal is to bend it in along one edge so that it kinks. This will remove the pressure around the circumference and allow you to pull it out fairly easily. You may need to do some prying with a screwdriver or similar tool.



I tried that method, but I was trying to bend it at the wrong place. Study the seal. The edge of the seal extends all the way to the edge of the case. Since I didn’t realize this until later, the way I removed my seal was to drive a hole in it with a punch. Then I screwed a screw into the hole and pried on the screw with a claw hammer.



The new seal is a one-piece unit, incorporating both the seal and the dust cover. I don’t know which of these is the part number because both numbers were shown on my receipt. First number: 5086054. Second number: 21060012. I’m sure someone on this forum can tell us which of these is the actual part number. It’s an expensive seal. Retail is about $40.



To install the seal, locate the drain hole in the dust cover and position that at the bottom. Grease up the outer ring and the inner sealing surface and push the seal into the housing as far as you can by hand. Mine would go in almost halfway. Using a block of wood and a hammer, drive the seal until it’s snug all the way around. Install the drive shaft, REFILL THE TRANSFER CASE (about 3 quarts of ATF), and you are done. I put a note over the speedometer panel to remind myself to fill the case.



I’ve driven only about 8 miles since I did mine, so it’s hard to say for sure that it is no longer leaking, but so far it isn’t.



Good luck.



Loren
 
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