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How do i tell if i have limited slip?

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I have an 06 and when i bought it i really didn't pay attention to wether it had limited slip or not... .



I am assuming "NO" it doesn't due to the way it takes off in the icy, snowy conditions compared to my 05 i had... . But i would like to figure out for sure or not...



So how do i figure it out without going outside and physically trying to spin the tires and also my glove box doesn't have a sticker in it, and i cant seem to find a tag on the rear-end if there is supposed to be one... . So can someone help me figure it out... THANKS Oo. Oo.
 
Window sticker. Dealer can run vin and give you complete build sheet. Pull diff. cover and look. Spin the tires on wet payment is the easiest.
 
Jack up one side and put blocks under to hold one wheel off the ground an inch then get in and try to pull forward. If the truck moves you know. If it does not you no got.
 
J. BURCHFIELD said:
Jack up one side and put blocks under to hold one wheel off the ground an inch then get in and try to pull forward. If the truck moves you know. If it does not you no got.

How many rearends will do this? We are not talking "posi" or "locker" here.
 
J. BURCHFIELD said:
Jack up one side and put blocks under to hold one wheel off the ground an inch then get in and try to pull forward. If the truck moves you know. If it does not you no got.



Won't do it. I have the limited slip and tried to verify it this way and it failed. Both wheels have to have equal traction for it to work. Dealer's explanation. I pulled the cover to check, I have it, don't like it, but it is there.
 
Years ago when they first came out the wheel that was sliping/spining transfered 80% of the power to the wheel that had traction. Thought it would still be much the same. Be glad you have it, they help in the winter.
 
The dodge limited slip diffs are basically a factory replication of a Detroit trutrac. The best way to test this is to pull over to the side of the road with one wheel in the gravel and the other on pavement. have somebody stand outside the truck and pull forward enough to get the wheel in the gravel to spin. If you have a limited slip the wheel will start to spin and should slow down when the limited slip engages the other wheel and the truck will pull forward. If you do not have a limited slip the wheel in the gravel will keep spinning. I have installed several truetrac units and this is how we check the engagement after install.
 
Will get you stuck on wet grass or loose gravel. If it wasn't for the front wheel drive option, I would have had to be pulled out.
 
PLiskey said:
The dodge limited slip diffs are basically a factory replication of a Detroit trutrac. The best way to test this is to pull over to the side of the road with one wheel in the gravel and the other on pavement. have somebody stand outside the truck and pull forward enough to get the wheel in the gravel to spin. If you have a limited slip the wheel will start to spin and should slow down when the limited slip engages the other wheel and the truck will pull forward. If you do not have a limited slip the wheel in the gravel will keep spinning. I have installed several truetrac units and this is how we check the engagement after install.





It will get you stuck if your on a hill. Been there done that. If not for 4wd I would still be there.
 
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Well i just wanted to say i DID NOT have limited slip before but, i have it now... . Works great... . Was hoping that it would solve my spinning the one tire with the SMARTY loaded but it didn't... . Now i just spin them both... . :-laf :-laf



So now i need to figure out what to do with this extra open diff i took out... :confused: :confused:
 
the clickie above in my reply #9 had this from STAR ----- "the transfere of power from wheel to wheel is torque sensitive and must have both wheels spinning. It is possible for the Trac Rite diff to not send power to a wheel if its not spinning. Example; Accelerating from a stop and one wheel is on ice and the other on dry pavement, if accelerating to fast, the wheel on ice may spin and never send power to the other on dry pavement. A slower start may be necessary to start the vehicles momentum ".

My owners manual on page 198-199 says to engage the emergency brake slightly to get started from a dead stop. The Trac-Rite is a heavy unit and works great for layin' down two black marks on dry pavement but has left me stuck in the exact example above.

JIM
 
Doughboy21kd said:
Well i just wanted to say i DID NOT have limited slip before but, i have it now... .



Doughboy, Where did you get your LS from and how much did you give for it? Oh, how was the install?



Thanks

Bert
 
Got it from a fellow TDR member..... And the install went great... . I would say its much easier to install in a AAM axle than trying to install one in a DANA axle... .
 
You may want to fix your sig..... Are you sure you have a 2500 "Lariat" :rolleyes:



Tmartin000 said:
06-Black-2500 Lariat QC, 4x4, SB, AT, Rhino'd, Cobra 75wx, Self-installed UConnect, Toyo MT 295-70-r17, Factory Jake---bone stock







-Ryan
 
I’ve come to the observation that the unit does work, I don’t like how it works, but it does do what it’s supposed to. I can lay down two solid black marks on the pavement if I’ve got the Edge/ Attitude turned up. However, while turning left or right with too much throttle before hand it will just lay down one or spin the inside rear wheel ridiculously fast, following with a whole lot of smoke. In the same motion, I have found that just as the wheel speed slows up nearing the trucks actual speed, the Anti-Spin kicks in. I can feel and sometimes hear an audible clunk as it engages and the wheels generally stop spinning very shortly there after. I have tested the unit on accident when I got lost going to a very rural customers house a few weeks back. I was about 10 miles in a ravine ascending and descending very steep slopes on a partially gravel one side of the road and loose pack dirt on the other. If you could imagine I had to climb and start from a dead stop in some cases and the left side was on hard packed gravel/ worn asphalt and the right side very soft dirt. I started off slow than added a sure foot of throttle and angled my mirrors downward in the in-tow position as to be able to see the tires as I went. The result was just as it states “Anti-Spin” it left an imprint or dark mark from the tire on the gravel/ asphalt and just a regular track on the powder-loose dirt. Every time I took off slow first then goosed it, this scenario would occur. If I turned the programmer up and just mashed the throttle, all I would get is one wheel spinning and hardly any momentum forward. What ticks me off is that my girl and I went camping last summer, drove my truck down a vacant fire road where we had to cross a ditch. I didn’t want to cross the ditch square on as it was deep enough to high center the truck possibly. I eased it through the ditch in 4-High range at an angle. Front dropped in, leaving my driver side rear wheel about 4” off the ground, no big deal usually as I should still be able to proceed forward with this “Anti-Spin” differential. Wrong that wheel just spun helplessly in the air and the front “Open” type diff left my useless front right wheel spinning freely. I powered out of the ditch in reverse, shifted to 4-Low range and piled some rocks in the ravine and drove through. Seriously, this dry creek bed could have easily been crossed by a regular Toyota Tacoma truck (previously) owned vehicle, but my Dodge 2500 4x4 was almost stuck and helpless over crossing a simple ditch, because of the silly rear differential. I would just like to know exactly what situations does this “Anti-Spin actually work ideally in so I can avoid situations where it doesn’t work ahead of time.
 
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