How Do You Change The Fuel Filter?

[Bad Brad]

What's the ding dang deal with the fuel filter install? Can you guys provide instructions for the dummy? Tired of paying the dealers for poor service, damaging my truck and STILL charging me for the service! I still can't get over it. Have had too many bad experiences with DC dealers and still looking for one with integrity. Please help!
Thanks in advance... ... .

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2000, 3500 Driftwood, 4X4, Quad Cab, SLT+ Laramie, Tan Leather, 6 Speed, 3. 54LSD, Tow Package, Camper Package, All Possible Options, Rancho RS 9000 Shocks, Linex Bed Liner, K&N Air Filter, Husky Floor Mats, Geno's Smoothie, Chrome "Down and Out" Exhaust, Stainless Steel Fender Trim Kit, Geno's Charcoal Air Filter, Mopar Bug Deflector, Whisler Radar Detector, AirLift 5000 Air Bags, Smittybuilt Polished Stainless Steel Nerf Bars, Sylvania Cool Blue Headlights, Pro Flaps, 1999 Lance Fiberglass 1010 Legend, TV, VCR, Air, Generator, Solar, max'ed out all possible options, sleeps 5. Ya Baby!

 

[Justbeamn]

Info from Dave Fritz's ram page

Step 1: Drain the filter using the valve.

Prop a 1 quart oil bottle on top of the front diff to catch fuel from the drain tube.
Open the drain and immediately loosen the housing nut enough to loosen the housing. The fuel will siphon if you don't "break the seal". After that just let it hang
there for a minute until the housing empties.

Step 2: Disconnect the water sensor connector.

Using a long screwdriver, gently/slightly raise the end of the retaining clip and slide it off.

Step 3: Loosen canister retaining nut on header while holding canister.

The filter may stick to the top bracket and dribble fuel all over everything if it is not popped free from the bracket before removing the canister.

Step 4: Twist and remove old filter cartridge from canister

Step 5: Clean the canister and wipe the gasket surface on the bracket.

Step 6: Lubricate gasket and O-ring and then install on new filter cartridge.

Step 7: "Replace center O-ring with new one provided.

Step 8: Install new filter cartridge in canister.

Step 9: Pre-Fill the canister with fuel.

Some skip this and fill later by removing both plugs from the top and filling through one of the open ports.

Step 10: Install canister on header with drain aligned as shown, and tighten retaining nut to 10 ft-lbs.

Step 11: Reconnect water sensor electrical connector.

Step 12: Prime fuel system.

Loosen the test port fitting towards the front of the engine (closest to the center) on the top of the housing. This is the "outlet" test port.
"Bump" the starter without letting the engine start. The electrical fuel pump will run for about 20 seconds. Give the pump a few cycles before proceding.
Watch for fuel at the loose plug-tighten.
Some pull the injection pump relay to run the fuel pump without starting the engine, but the FSM warns that a fault code may result and require the DRB to
re-set it.

Step 13: Start engine and check for leaks. Correct as needed with engine off.

The engine may not start, or it may start but die. If it does not start and run, bleeding the fuel lines may be necessary. Begin at the filter and contine along the
fuel line to the injector pump until all air is purged. Torque the banjo bolt to 18 ft-lbs.

 

[Arcticat]

Those sound like instructions for a 99, wheras he should have the newer style canister. The new one is alot easier to change. Take a 1 1/8 " (I think) socket and loosen the filter housing cap. When it starts to spin freely, then open the drain. Leave the drain open and your fuel-catcher in place. Gently pull the filter housing lid up. It has the filter attached to it via snap clips on the underside of the lid. When the fuel filter is almost out of the housing, go real slow and gently wiggle until it pops out, as otherwise you will pull to hard, the filter will pop out suddenly and make a mess. When you pull the filter completely free of the housing the seal will be broken and a bunch more fuel will dump out of the filter itself. If you successfully pull the filter straight up, this fuel will dump harmlessly into the housing, through the drain and into your catch-container. Have a big zip lock bag ready to put the filter and the filter housing lid into so you don't drip fuel all over the place. Turn the whole thing upside down and you will see how the filter is held in place on the lid. Pry out the old one and pop in the new one, making sure to replace the big oring on the filter housing lid. Fill the filter housing(the alluminum thing that is still on the engine) with diesel fuel leaving enough room to get the new filter in without overflowing. Thread the lid and filter back into the housing. Go slow and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic lid, which is very easy to do. Torque the lid with the socket and torque wrench to 28ftlbs. Close the drain and then turn the key to the run position. Bump the starter for a millisecond and let the key stay in the run position as if you had actually started the engine. You will hear the lift pump cycling for about thirty seconds, which will circulate fuel and push any air in the system back to the tank. When you hear the lift pump cycle off, start the engine. Check for leaks and that's it I think. If I forgot anything somebody else will chime in. Good luck!

[This message has been edited by Arcticat (edited 04-05-2001). ]

 

[ftb87]

Brad,

Review Arcticat filter instruction. I just did mine last weekend and did exactly as arcticat said. I just bump started mine twice to make sure the air was out of the system and violia it started with no hesitation.

Frank

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01 White, Quad Cab,Short Box ,Sport SLT+,5 speed 3. 54 Ltd-slip,4X4,line-x ,Nerf bars,fiberglass tonneau cover

 

[Justbeamn]

Oops, sorry #ad

 

[EMDDIESEL]

I just changed the Fuel filter in my 2001 2500 and all i did was remove the cover with an Inch and an eighth socket, removed the old filter and snapped in a new one, replaced the "O" ring with the one included with the new filter. And screwed the cover back on. The truck started immediatley, then died, i just let it crank about 3-4 seconds and it started again and that was all. All done, took 10 minutes, if that. I did not have to bump over the engine or manually refill the filter bowl. Do the 3500,s or 00's have a different setup?.

 

[Jar Head]

Ditto on what everyone else has said thus far. Now that you're gonna do it yourself, you can carry a spare for those long trips just in case.

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Made in Mexico: 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 HD 4x4, Regular Cab ST, ETC, Auto, 4. 10 LSD, Camper Package, Trailer Package, 100% Stock and runs like a freight train.

 

[ftb87]

EMDDiesel,

It is best to bump the starter to activate the fuel pump. This will purge all of the air out of the system and your truck will not die. It also saves the fuel pump, it need all of the fuel to help lub. it.

Frank

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01 White, Quad Cab,Short Box ,Sport SLT+,5 speed 3. 54 Ltd-slip,4X4,line-x ,Nerf bars,fiberglass tonneau cover

 

[willyslover]

Hey Dave. . One more time THANKS for your page/site. . !! big big help. .
Gary

[This message has been edited by willyslover (edited 04-06-2001). ]

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Thanks for the info. Where exactly are the water in fuel sensor tips?

 

[Thomas]

The water-in-fuel sensor has two probes near the bottom-front of the fuel filter case. Wipe them when you have the filter out.

 

[SOLER]

Thought I'd reiterate something. Don't be tempted to just use a 1/2 inch ratchet and extension to take the lid off. Use the 1 1/8 inch like everyone stated. It will prevent the lid from splitting.


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Shane Oler
'01 2500 4X4, ETH/6 speed, ISSPRO Pyro (pre-turbo)and Boost Pillar mount, Dark Garnet/Camel, 4" DD exhaust, Grill gaurd and nerf bars, 20K Reese 5er hitch

Other: '70 Olds Vista Cruiser 455 (future resto project)
30' Sandpiper 5er Super Slide bunkhouse(about 10k lbs. )

 

[Dave Fritz]

One addition:

While the filter element is still out of the canister, don't forget to clean the WIF (water in fuel) sensor see:
TSB 14-03-00

Edit - one more addition:

Don't over torque the cover - 25 ft-lb see:
TSB 14-02-00


Dave

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1994 2500HD 4X4 modified for off-road camping
2001 2500 ETH/DEE QC SB 4X4
Fritz's Dodge Ram Tech Page is now dodgeram.org

[This message has been edited by Dave Fritz (edited 04-06-2001). ]

 

[RobbyRam]

I have my fuel filter changed by 'Pro-Fleet', which is a 'Quick Lube' type shop for 'Big Rigs. '
They use 'Fleet-Guard' filters for the 24Valve, and only charge me about $14. 00 including labor! #ad
They just pull the old one out and then replace it with the new one, and change the '0' ring. I've had no problems so far with each 15K change at over 40K miles.
Bob

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Y2K Awesome Black LB 3500 QC SLT, 24Valve ETC ISB, 4x4, 4:10 LSD, DTT Custom prepared Auto transmission VB, Power Edge 'EZ', DD2's, K&N, Polished Stull Billet Grill/Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges, Rancho 9000's, Diamond Plated Tool Box, + a bunch of other stuff. Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!

 

[Partyat33]

Well, I got it changed for the first time. Only problem is when I bumped the pump I forgot to close the drain, good thing the price of diesel went down. I even used a torque wrench for the first time. You can teach an old dog new tricks.


Dennis

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2001. 5 3500 4X4 Quad Cab, ETH, Dark Garnet Red. Back Country SS Nerf Bars, Kanduco Grill Inserts (sweet tooth), SPA Boost and EGT Gauges, Step II injectors, Power Edge EZ, Custom graphics package, LineX bed liner.