How do you make an adapter plate?

[Brian R]

Does anyone know the basics of making an adapter plate? It seems to me that if you could come up with a way to align the trans input shaft of the desired transmission with the pilot bearing of the desired engine, you'd be halfway there. I was thinking I could then take a 1/8" or 3/16" plate, cut it to match the ID of the smaller bell housing and the OD of the larger bell housing. I would then use centering punches to mark the holes from both sides. Then I'd drill the holes and figure out a way to bolt it all together, barring interference. I'd probably put the clutch disc from the transmission in between the disc and pressure plate of the engine. The starter would be tricky. If I could put the flywheel from the transmission vehicle on the crank of the engine vehicle that would come close to solving the starter problem, barring offset problems.



Does this sound accurate enough?



What about the off set of the crank vs. the transmission input shaft length? If the shaft is too long I'd use a thicker plate. But if it is too short, then what?



Any thoughts are appreciated.



BTW I'm thinking about putting a Mercedes 3. 0 5 cyl. TD in a Cherokee.

 

[LSMITH]

I can't help a lot but I can tell you that the alignment of the crank to the input shaft needs to be dead on. If it is not and you are lucky the pilot bearing will be torn up in short order, if you are unlucky it can take out the rear main bearing and/or the input shaft bearing.



If your distance from the pilot of the input shaft to the pilot hole in the flywheel is too long you can shim the flywheel out some, I would not go over about 1/8" though. If that is not enough you can machine some stock off of both sides of the bellhousing. I would prefer to machine the bellhousing for any adjustments.



The accuracy of the bolt pattern is not all that critical, but the locating dowels need to be perfect. They are what indexes the transmission for location on the block.



You can take the old bellousing and the new one to a machine shop and they can make the adaptor plate, and machine the housing to compensate for the length for a fee. I think you could get it done for less than $400, but that is just a guess.



Hope this helps a little.

 

[JIM S.]

Brian R... is the MB 3. 0 turbo charged? what can they be found in? I have the oportunity to get a 91 cherokee with a toasted 4 liter and would love to find a 3. 9 CTD to swap into. but maybe a MB would be as good if I could find one.

Jim

 

[Ray Torresdal]

adapter plate

I wouldn't expect to get by for $400 for an adapter plate! If you don't have a print of the engine block with hole locations, and the same for the transmission bell housing, your machinest will have to set up the block and/or bell housing to locate the holes accurately. Just finding hole locations isn't a 5 minute job. You will want your adapter plate flat, flame cut plate will not be flat. Figure at least $50 to get the plate Blanchard ground. You can avoid this step if you can find cold roll plate the appropriate thickness, and bandsaw the profile you need. We have made several adapter plates (Cummins to John Deere, Cummins to Case, IH Navistar to GM, etc. ) and they always cost more than I think they should!



A word from someone who has "been there, done that!"



Ray

 

[Thierry]

on another note, if you use a good machine shop and he documents the hole locations, he may be able to make a few extra and maybe defray your cost on only doing one.



Just my 2 cents worth, maybe you can find some other people that want some, and they can go in with you.

 

[Brian R]

Thanks for the replies. Even though I'm no journeyman I'm sort of my own machine shop. I have a 12x34 lathe, mill/drill, 20 ton H press, 3 welders, etc. No CNC stuff. No surface grinder. If I knew where to put the holes I could. I wonder if swapping bell housings would be possible. I also might use a Mercedes 4 spd manual or auto and find a way to unmarry the Jeep transfer. Or I might just use a Nissan divorced transfer.



Yes, the Merc motors were available turbocharged. I think they were rated at 120 or 125 bhp.

 

[Animal]

Originally posted by Brian R

BTW I'm thinking about putting a Mercedes 3. 0 5 cyl. TD in a Cherokee.

Brian,



I was considering installing a Mercedes 5 cyl. TD into a Toyota 4X4 PU but sold the motor. What I was going to do was install the engine with the auto transmission then use a divoriced TC for the 4X4.



If you decide to do this I still have the auto transmission, it is new never used and I'll sell it for $500 plus shipping if interested.



Thanks

 

[Brian R]

The divorced transfer with a Merc trans is probably the way to go. I was hoping to get a used transmission and am leaning toward a manual right now. I'll keep it in mind, though.

 

[Brian R]

BTW, how does that Toyota engine bay measure out. Those 5 cyl's are pretty long, about 33" I think from bell housing to fan blade. That is one reason I am leading toward a Cherokee because they had room for the 4. 0L inline six.

 

[Animal]

Originally posted by Brian R

BTW, how does that Toyota engine bay measure out. Those 5 cyl's are pretty long, about 33" I think from bell housing to fan blade. That is one reason I am leading toward a Cherokee because they had room for the 4. 0L inline six.

It would fit without the fan, would have used an electric on the front of the radiator. Also look for an old 240D engine for the transmission, it will bolt up to the 3. 0L from what I've been told.

 

[Brian R]

I do plan to use the manual. Today I'm thinking more about the early 80's Nissan 4x4. I re-measured the 300D motor at the JY and it is more like 30. 5". Move the radiator a bit forward and I think I'm in business. The sump looks like it will drop right between the front of the frame and the steering.