How do you time an injector pump?

[Clarkoh]

I just got my VE pump back from the rebuilder. Its on, the truck started and runs fine. I marked the timing case and the pump so it is still where it was. Can anyone help with the procedure to check and adjust the timing? I would like a little more from it. Is there a quick and dirty way to improve performance by changing the timing??

 

[RGT]

the quick and dirty is to rotate the pump top toward the engine enough so that there is a bout 1/8" between the timing mark on the case and the one on the engine...

 

[Clarkoh]

Thanks

I just got the truck running and I am now getting some (more then before the pump was removed and freshened) blue smoke . Especially when the engine is cold. Am I correct in my thinking that advancing the timing will help? What other benefits does advancing the timing help with?



I had that 92 degree temperature switch fail once, the kids waiting for the school bus used to laugh at me, when I left the house. It was like I was dusting mosquitoes for the first couple miles!

 

[JoeBioDiesel]

If you ever get out near Syracuse I can time that correctly for you. I have access to the needed tools.

Joe

 

[Clarkoh]

Injector pump timing

Thanks Joe! I might just take you up on that.



I did the "move the pump an 1/8th inch thing. It is better, exhaust is cleaner, starts with a little more resistance to turning over. A new battery wiill help that. It acts like a high compression gas engine with too much lead. How do you accurately time the injector pump?? Will having it too much advanced do any damage?

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Didn't the pump come back "pinned" ???

Normally the pump will be set at a given "lift". For example 1. 5mm lift or whatever.

If it was set and you advance it further then at some point it will start to sound like the old Mercedes did... kind of a "hard" sound. .

Too much advance will eventually cause you head gasket problems...



You are generally ok for timing if you run between 15*and 17*advance. That would equate to 1. 5mm - 1. 70mm lift, if spill port method is used.



Bob.

 

[Clarkoh]

Yeah! It was

The pump had the locking screw with the shim removed & screwed in when I sent it out for leak repairs and when it returned. It seemed a little smokier * less powerful than I remembered, so I did the 1/8" thing on it.



Exhaust is clean, runs great but seems to be putting additional strain on the starter motor when she cranks over. Could it be that 92 degree switch is causing way too much lead when it is cold?? It starts fine after that initial cold morning start.



Almost forgot, I ran it 750 miles just after reinstalling the pump, prior to moving the timing. The EGT's were up there (1400) on hills at 70MPH. It pulled OK, not great. This was without any load in the truck! Hence, my attempt at something which could have been changed from the pre-rebuild?

 

[JoeBioDiesel]

If the starter is dragging I would recommend retarding it a little, until it doesn't do it any more. That's a lot of advance.

Joe

 

[Clarkoh]

I will do that

Thanks, again! Too bad it is not a little easier to get at the bolts! I ended up pulling the vacuum/ power steering pump off to get at that bottom one! GRRR!

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

There is a goofy lookin wrench made just for that job. It is an "S" shape and has 13mm/15mm box ends.

If the pump was pinned then it is/was likely set at spec for your year... I think it would be 1. 25mm lift.

That allows a fair bit of room to tweak the timing.

Keep in mind that during startup in cool weather the temp sensor will trigger the KSB which doubles the internal, supply side, pressure from 4 bar to 8 bar. This creates extra advance while it is operational... I think it accounts for roughly 2. 5* more advance in timing.

If it smokes, tweak the timing up a tad and drive it for a day or two, repeat as needed. Once you are a full 1/8" above the mark lines you need to go easy because you're getting up there.

Figure it this way, the pump is set at 1. 25mm lift, (I think that's about 13*advance for the sake of conversation) then you tweak it another couple degrees. . now you're at 15*advance + or -..... now the ksb kicks in and you add another 2. 5*advance... as you can see the timing starts to get right up there. Granted the ksb drops out fairly soon... in fact once the air temp sensor see's air about 59*F it drops out.

Last... as your timing goes up your torque goes down and HP goes up.





Pastor Bob. .

 

[Clarkoh]

THANKS

This place is the best. And so are the participants! I could probably modify a wrench. Have torch, will bend!

 

[TSuter]

To get to the bottom bolt I use a 1/2'' distributor wrench that I still have laying around.



Tom

 

[Greenleaf]

Snap-On

Part no. SP144 makes it so easy, my wife could do it. Did I just say that out loud???



anonymous

 

[PPeters]

Hey, for a set of 185's or POD's I won't say anything to her



Pat

 

[Clarkoh]

Bought the wrench

Ordered the SP144! Pricey little bugger $37. 88 with tax and shipping!!!

But now i can make adjustments much easier!! Thanks for the tip!