How do you "turn up the pump"

[NDearyan]

on a 1993?



thanks



Nate

 

[tugboatphil]

Nate,



There are several things that could be considered "turning up. " All of which, I am the least qualified to tell you. However, up at the top of the page are the "Stickys", which Pastor Bob and others have poured their knowledge into. Read through them carefully and come back with a specific request. By then someone smarter than me will have read this.

 

[1stgen4evr]

Turning up the pump

Start by reading the stickys at the top of this group of posts. You will then want to ask some specific questions. There are more than a few mods to increase fuel delivery. Fuel past a given point will only make smoke. You will want to add fuel along with air which is accomplished with several different mods as well. There are a number of extremely well informed members that will be able to answer your questions. They can advise you also to the fact that once you start the quest for 'mo power', there is no $topping. It is an elu$ive goal and a witch godde$$ that returns pain and pleasure, sometimes in equal amounts.



Note the $$$$. I quit chasing that goal some time back and now want to see if I can reach the million mile mark. (425k as of now) For that reason, my trucks are all box stock with upgrades and repair limited to safety and longevity. That isn't meant to mean I am down on power. I spent my share of money on that when I was younger. First be sure that your truck is doing what it was designed to do from the factory so you have a base line of comparison when you begin to upgrade. Be sure fuel delivery and pump settings are correct. Run your valves and be sure they are correct. Plenty of owners state that to a point, extra power will net improved mileage. This clearly can happen as a result of being able to pull in a higher gear and not downshifting on the hills.



I expect Daniel will jump in here on the power upgrades. He is quite knowlegable and from what I surmise has had to work on a tight budget as well so he probably can give you the best for your money tips.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[Philip]

I do not see anything listed for gages in your sig. If you do not have at least a pryo installed. Do not turn the pump up till one is installed.

 

[NDearyan]

No, I don't have gauges yet. I will get them 1st.



Trying to get all my ducks in a row. I want to turn up a little, but not excessively.



So, I get:



1. ) A little more power.

2. ) More mpg.

3. ) 500k miles +.



I be happy! :-laf



Nate Oo.

 

[dpuckett]

Here I am, tight budget and all.



Ok, first, get your pyro and boost gagues, with the t-couple in the rear half of the manifold flange just before the turbo. If memory serves, TST has a god pic of the install on their page www.tstproducts.com . The pyro is next to useless in the exahsut pipe. BTDT. Up to a 450 deg difference on a stock truck with a gated housing. READ THE STICKIES first, so you will have an idea of what I'm talking about. This goes for everyone.



Valve adjustments, fuel filter, make sure air filter is good, get base line readings, and go from there. Maybe run a good dose of DIesel Kleen, StanadynePF et al, through the tank to clean stuff up a bit if you dont use them regularly. I'd assume that since it is to be used in your business, you will want to keep smoke to a minimum. Timing needs to be set to 1. 5-1. 6mm (. 055-. 060") @TDC. (I have the tools to do it, and can do it in exchange for the bed when you get the custom bed on there ) Much more than that, and you start to lose ground in MPGs, and perfromance, unless you have aftermarket injectors with higher pop pressures, (that will in effect retard the dynamic timing), in which case, you can go a little more. Make sure that who ever does the timing doesnt rely entirely on the timing pin for TDC; the pins have been known to be as much as 5 deg off one way or another, rendering the effort of setting timing a waste of effort. True TDC needs to be established before any timing measurements. There are several ways to do this, and I can make another post with some of the methods if needed.



Fritz's Ram Tech Page has some good ilustrations of what to turn where for the full power screw. I will warn you, if you turn in the power screw much more than 1/3-1/2 turn without tightening up the AFC spring tension, you WILL get smoke. At least I always have, but I sometimes wonder if I've ever had a stock truck.



Back the "smoke screw" (T-25 Torx and 12mm deepwell) on top of the AFC housing all the way out (ok, not ALL the way out, but far enough that the diaphragm is resting against the bottom of the top cover, not having the set screw pushing it down). This just determines where the tapered cone starts, and since you have zero boost, start out with minimal fuel to reduce smoke. Spring tension determines how fast the fuel comes on vs boost. CAREFUL OF THE POTMETAL AFC HOSE- it will snap if you breathe on it wrong. Still driveable, just feels like a PSD :-laf Replacement was $55 from the dealer 4 years ago; $22 from CUmmins.



Now, back to the cone taper. Some have had good luck and little smoke by turning it to the max. I like to set mine at the 50-75% range. (or less than 50% and grind on it to get the top end back to full power) If you look at the cone, you will see the taper is offset, with the deeper side allowing more fuel flow. The deep side, for our purposes, is 100%, the shallow side is 0%. 50% is halfway between the two; 75% being a little deeper. GUide pin comes out from the front side of the well, and that is what rides on the tapered pin.



Start with the AFC "starwheel" (i'd like to know what drunk came up with that term, the thing looks like a 32-tooth gear) to about 5-7 turns up from the bottom. You may need some tough fingers to turn it. MOst of the trucks I've had already had that wheel botomed out. Fast response, but with the stock exhaust housing, makes some smoke.



Once you get the AFC set up, take it for a spin, see how you like it. If you need more, turn the full power screw in about 1/4 turn at a time, and see how it runs. It may take a few weeks to get it how you like it if you're as picky as I am. I have mine set to where it hardly smokes at under 20psi, then a light haze at 20-35. Unless I stomp on it at 3rd gear idle, in which case it will leave a blackish haze.



For a stoc truck with stock turbo, 1psi boost equals roughly 10HP. With the 18, I'd venture that's at the wheels. You should have 15-18psi peak at stock, (with the 18cm; take of 2psi for 21cm) 22-24 peak after my recommendations, and it comes on quicker. From your siganture, and with 3. 54 gears, you can expect 17-19MPG empty (<800# load, no trailer) aruond town, and 20 or so hwy, provided the pump and injectors are up to par.



Daniel

 

[dpuckett]

500K, more MPGs

the 500K is easy- change the oil at least once every 10K, perferrably 5-6K; and dont let it get hot. Heck it'll go a million that way. mine had the factory hone marks at 250K, and it was not a cream puff.



The extra MPGs require discipline, and will come with wise and conservative use of the extra available power, which many of us never totally master. There are several theories as to why a diesel with more available torque/Hp uses less fuel, my thinking being that with the increased atomization due to higher injection pressures, and being able to go at lower RPMs in all gears (to a point, dont lug it). takes fuel to make RPM, as well as power.

 

[Greenleaf]

Soft music... . candle light, gift wrapped box from Victoria's Secret, and... ... ... .



Oh... ... . sorry. mWrong forum.



My Bad.



-S