how good are the rebuilt nv4500???

[1 locomotive]

soldddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd

 

[1stgen4evr]

how good?

Hummmm. I see you have some lookers but no response. I will stick my neck out and maybe someone will jump in and give their thoughts also. And I guess that a lot of folks just look at the first page.



I have an NV on the bench that was run low on oil. They won't take that any better than the Getrag. I bought a getrag from a fellow TDR member who did the change out. He is pleased with his. Didn't really want to shell out the 3 grand. His use probably doesn't warrent the NV change but he does have fwd and that seems to be a common thread on failure of the Getrag. My Getrag at 400k is only now at the point that it must have internal service. And that is just with the syncro on third.



My brother has a later model truck with the NV. I have driven it only a little. It shifts nice and does everything a transmission is supposed to do. His engine is a bit more horsy than mine. There would be no difference in the mileage between these trannys and the Getrag. Now if you are going from an automatic, you will see an increase in mileage. That is true for the Getrag as well. I have a manual and an automatic (both 93 year model) and the manual gets much better mileage. If it weren't for the crappy computer function with OD, I would prefer the automatic. As much as I drive, I mostly run the manual.



How good is the overhaul? As good as the folks who did it. If you know a good rebuilder who has some experience with manual trannys, they can turn out a good rebuild. There is nothing special about the NV. From the posts I have seen and talking with owners, the NV must have the fith gear nut thing taken care of. Looks like the best thing there is to replace the main shaft with the full spline upgrade and special nut. There are several shops who are putting a package together that makes the job much easier. There are some tasks that you must do in the conversion.



When you do the change, save the getrag for us box stock, two wheel drive guys who don't have a problem with the "gutbag".



1stgen4evr

James

 

[DTroy]

That's good advice.



If the mainshaft,fifth gear, and fifth gear nut are upgraded. . then you will have a reliable transmission.

A reputable shop will set the main and countershaft end-play correctly. (a major concern)

 

[Dakotahaulers]

When I did my conversion I bought a rebuilt NV4500, Quad 4*4 kit, and shortened my driveshaft. Kit was a real help, and was under $700. Besides my turbo upgrade the nv4500 is one of the smartest in my book if you want relible. If you do upgrade spend the extra money for the flywheel bearing and rear main seal.

 

[1stgen4evr]

end play (a major concern)

I suppose I should add that end play (preload) is everything with the trannys that have tapered roller bearings. For those who don't know, New Process, Eatons, Muncie, Borg Warner trannys don't have tapered roller bearings. Quite a lot of shops are very good with rebuild on these type transmissions but fail to get the preload set as it should be for the getrag or the NV. If the preload is too little, the transmission will soon be out of spec and will exhibit gear mesh noise and possible jumping out of gear. Too tight and the pocket bearing on the getrag will seeze up with catastrophic result. The NV avoids this problem as there is a different type of thrust and flat roller bearing at the pocket bearing. The getrag benefits greatly from 'extra' oil because it helps to better bath and cool the pocket bearing. The extra oil isn't really extra but is only compensating for the angle that the transmission sits behind the cummins. The front of the transmission is starving for oil if the level is only to the fill hole.



Since I have had a number of inquirys on my sucess with the getrag, I will make a couple of comments on how I set the preload. Consider this. You may feel it is a bit silly but think of a new pair of shoes. If you bought them too tight, they would rub a blister. Well when that pocket bearing 'blisters', the result is melt down. Conversly, if you bought the shoes too loose, they would soon be floping and you would need to wear heavy socks to refit (re-shim) them. Same with the transmission. You would need to re set the preload.



SO how do I set the preload. With the countershaft installed and when I have gotten the shim pack to near correct, I am turning the countershaft with my hand to achieve what I feel to be bearly discernable drag on the bearings. There are methods to read this from a linear scale (fish scales) by wraping a rope on the shaft and pulling to gage the rolling torque of preload. I have tried to use such but am more confident of the feel with my hand on the countershaft. With the countershaft set, I lay the shim pack for that aside and do the main shaft/input shaft preload using the same 'feel'. If I am reusing the bearings (and I like to use bearings that are run in), I will go lighter on the drag than if the bearings are new. When I have the shim pack correct for the main shaft, I reinstall the previously set up shim pack for the countershaft. I bolt everything back and I expect to have good result. Look back at the post on building the dana 70 and read the comments about breaking in (running in) new bearings. You will see why I like bearings that are already run in (used). With new bearings, you desperatly need to do a breakin operation so as to get the bearings where they won't heat and bind.



James

 

[DTroy]

I've never worked on the Getrag.

The correct NV counter and mainshaft end-play is . 002-. 006" measured with my trusty SnapOn dial indicator and fixture.

I overfilled mine. Poured it in from the top. It helps the third gear synchro.

 

[MrWinkey]

I got my kit from Quad 4x4. My other truck with the "GUTBAG" is starting to make some noise down in the transmission area so it's time for an inspection but I can honestly tell you for the 2600 bucks with shipping from quad 4x4 it was the best deal out there.



The rebuilds alone were about 1500 + a core charge and they wouldnt take my getrag for the core on a NV transmission. So for 600 bucks more I got a brand new transmission w/ the warrany they give you 1 year unlimited miles. Your results may vary on used transmission prices and such.



The other big question is was it worth the $$? IMHO YES!



The transmission shifts much nicer than my old one ever did and it improved my highway MPG by about 1-2%

 

[bgilbert]

Man, I wish I had $2600!!

 

[Paychk]

Prices went up



QK1 1989-1991 4x4 Kit complete with Transmission………. . $3595*

QK2 1992-1993 4x4 Kit complete with Transmission………... $3595*

QK3 1989-1991 4x4 Kit without Transmission……………... ... . $ 650**

QK4 1992-1993 4x4 Kit without Transmission... ... ... ... ... ... . $ 650**

QK5 1989-1993 4x2 Kit complete with Transmission…. ……. $3595*

QK6 1989-1993 4x2 Kit without transmission………. ………... . $ 650**

Residential Delivery Charge for QK1, QK2, or QK5... ... ... ..... $60



Still seriously considering it, when I can get the money together.