Attention: TDR Forum Junkies This installation is for a truck camper application where I had to provide a new 7 pin connector in the bed close to the forward bulkhead. I did not provide a back- up light circuit nor electric brake wire to the in bed connector as my truck camper does not require it. This solution for my truck camper pulls the lights and turn signals from the rear via the flat 4 extension and new heavy gage wire from the firewall back to a new 7 pin plug mounted in the bed.
I did not cut into any existing lines to tap my circuits. For the running lights and turn signals I ran an extension 4 wire patch cord (purchased at any auto parts store) and plugged it into the stock flat 4 plug under the truck bumper; the stock 7 pin in the license plate recess in the center of the stock bumper remains intact. The flat 4 extension is run under the truck into the driver's side cavity within the bed to the correct pins in the newly installed 7-pin plug.
The 12 volt charging line to the new 7 pin is an 8 gage wire that is run separately and independently from the stock 12V line that goes to the bumper. I wanted a much larger wire for charging the camper batteries.
The photo above shows the placement of the Techonsha 7000-S continuous duty solenoid isolator with 30A reset. It is circuited per the manufacturers recommendations shown HERE. I ran the new 8 gage wire in spit loom down the fire wall and under the cab wire tying it to existing items and up into the bed cavity just behind the fuel fill hose.
I tapped a 12 volt "Key-On" source by cutting a crimp type ring terminal in half to insert into a vacant slot in the under- hood fuse panel.
I used the keyed side of the vacant #37 fuse (vacant on my 2005- other years may be different.) I ran the wire out the side through a slot that was cut and smoothed with a hacksaw blade and emery cloth.
The keyed 12V lead is run in split loom and is wire tied along existing hose to a water proof 10A fuse holder then run to the proper post on the solenoid.
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I did not cut into any existing lines to tap my circuits. For the running lights and turn signals I ran an extension 4 wire patch cord (purchased at any auto parts store) and plugged it into the stock flat 4 plug under the truck bumper; the stock 7 pin in the license plate recess in the center of the stock bumper remains intact. The flat 4 extension is run under the truck into the driver's side cavity within the bed to the correct pins in the newly installed 7-pin plug.
The 12 volt charging line to the new 7 pin is an 8 gage wire that is run separately and independently from the stock 12V line that goes to the bumper. I wanted a much larger wire for charging the camper batteries.
The photo above shows the placement of the Techonsha 7000-S continuous duty solenoid isolator with 30A reset. It is circuited per the manufacturers recommendations shown HERE. I ran the new 8 gage wire in spit loom down the fire wall and under the cab wire tying it to existing items and up into the bed cavity just behind the fuel fill hose.
I tapped a 12 volt "Key-On" source by cutting a crimp type ring terminal in half to insert into a vacant slot in the under- hood fuse panel.
I used the keyed side of the vacant #37 fuse (vacant on my 2005- other years may be different.) I ran the wire out the side through a slot that was cut and smoothed with a hacksaw blade and emery cloth.
The keyed 12V lead is run in split loom and is wire tied along existing hose to a water proof 10A fuse holder then run to the proper post on the solenoid.
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