How is valspar automotive paint? Need opinions!!!

[Fordiesel69]

I am looking to do a quality paint job on my truck and I only know how to spray acrylic enamel in a NON hvlp gun. I can settle with a marginal texture quality and simply wet sand and buff it out. It does not have to be show car quality, but it can;t look like a $300 dollar macco special either.



I want to use a base/clear and dupont chromaclear is too expensive at well over $600, PPG being a tiny it less expensive, and valspar being $341. What is your opinion on this and what brand would you use.

 

[JZellers]

Let me start my answer by stating that I'm not a professional painter, but I have been painting cars, tractors, etc. since I was 15 and have had experience with Dupont, PPG, and Valspar acrylic enamels. Valspar as you found out is the least expensive, but I have had bad luck with it's durability. By that I mean that it doesn't seem to stick to Valspar's DTM or self-etching primers very well. Even though you can use those as substrates without sanding according to Valspar, I would recommend sanding the primer before applying the paint. I believe that will help with adhesion. I never had to do that with Dupont or PPG, though.



The paint itself sprays much like the Dupont does and is pretty easy to get a good gloss with very little orange peel. Use the hardener also. It really helps with the gloss and drying time...



Hope this helps.



Joe

 

[Fordiesel69]

I don;t like the forgivness of acrylic for vehicles I want to keep. You cannot wetsand and buff nearly as effectivly. I wish to use base/clear as I can cover up any mistakes by westsanding.

 

[JZellers]

Fordiesel69 is right - acrylic is really hard to wet-sand and buff properly. On my first gen I used Valspar polyurethane base/clear 4 years ago and it still looks good, even though it sits outside year-round.



It's easy enough to sand and buff anytime, but if you do it within the first two days it's very easy to work with if you end up with some orange-peel. The trick I found with the clear is to thin it a little more than Valspar recommends. I think they recommend up to 10% but that just makes for a thick orange peel finish that you really have to sand down. I use a HVLP gun so you might have different results, but when I added extra reducer I was able to spray with very minimal orange-peel.

 

[Fordiesel69]

Fordiesel69 is right - acrylic is really hard to wet-sand and buff properly. On my first gen I used Valspar polyurethane base/clear 4 years ago and it still looks good, even though it sits outside year-round.



It's easy enough to sand and buff anytime, but if you do it within the first two days it's very easy to work with if you end up with some orange-peel. The trick I found with the clear is to thin it a little more than Valspar recommends. I think they recommend up to 10% but that just makes for a thick orange peel finish that you really have to sand down. I use a HVLP gun so you might have different results, but when I added extra reducer I was able to spray with very minimal orange-peel.

Ok, I found PPG for in the $300 ball park. I have a harbor freight HVLP gun that I want to try out.

 

[DSeamans]

spraying

Don't know if you've got it done yet, but here's some things I've learned. First, If you've been using a good hp gun(binks #7) you'll hate the hvlp when you start. Don't expect much out of a harbor freight gun. The biggest thing with hvlp is the volume of air. It takes more compressor to run it than hp guns. You need to use 1/2" hose and big connectors, 3/8" openings versus 1/4". You should use different tips with color and clear. I use a mid-line sharpe and can get away with one tip, but I have to crank the pressure up to get it to lay the way I like. With the paint, PPG or Dupont is the way to go. They both have their cheap lines like Omni. I have had good luck using the cheaper colors and topping with the good clear. You can save a bunch that way. I haven't been happy at all with the cheaper clears - either omni or nassin(spelling). It just doesn't lay nice and it takes more material to get coverage. Remember, you need a min thickness total or microscopic metal will stick through the paint and make it rust faster. If you need 3mil of finished clear, all the oarnge peel is wasted material. You actually save by using a better clear that will lay flat the first time. Have fun, I am getting ready to do mine. Wisconsin salt has done its damage!



Dave