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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) how long does a hx35 live

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) exhaust brake for warmup

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission HID conversion

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How many miles should a stock hx35 live? Assume that it is being abused but it gets new oil every 3500 to 4000 (kendall super D3 15-40). Very unscientific method of tracking wear, grab the end of the shaft and try to wiggle. @80,000 no movement, now @ 104,000 or so a lot of movement. Added edge ez and 275's about 80,000. Would a timing box and larger injectors cause this much wear this quick or is this about normal for a turbo that has been used hard? Mostly city driving I try not to shut down until I am @ 300 or less on the pyro. I read somewhere that timing has a lot to do with turbo abuse. I do not fully understand turbo "bark" however I am a standard transmission and I do sometimes come off the throttle very quickly when shifting I do not think I am hearing any "bark" but I really do not know. Any opinion would be appreciated. I know that I need to replace and I am considering either a phat shaft 62 and 150's from industrial inj. or a pdr35 and stage 3 edms from Piers. Thanks in advance for any opinions, advice or flames.
 
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Considering the way that you have been using yours, the seals will probably go first.

Turbo's have a limited life. It's the nature of the beast.



You really can't miss the bark. If it's mild it's more of a wheez. If it's harsh, it's loud.

It makes me cringe when I think about it grenading. But I'm spinning it too fast and feeding it too much heat.



I almost bought a CUCV. Prolly would have if it weren't for the 4:56's.
 
When the Cummins was first offered in the Dodge pickup, advertisements at the time talked about a "Holset turbocharger has proven to last over 100K miles in testing. " Now, that was using late-80s oil, and I'd think that's a conservative estimate.



The HX35 has a rep as a very tough little turbo, but everything has its limits. If in doubt, send it off to Hi Tech turbo or I. I and have them rebuild it. Might as well have them hybrid it while it's there (35/40 hybrid).

jh
 
I was talking to a guy down at a local RV shop about this. He said that he sees alot of trucks that are at the 150k to 225k range with the original turbo.
 
DTroy; I must not have enough fuel to "bark or wheez" but I soon will. CUCV is one of the best purchases I have made even with it's limitations.



Hohn; that is about what I thought, I really have no complaints as it has taken over 100,000 of my driving but it is close to the end of its life and I will send it off for hybrid for a later project.



RonA; What kind of shape are they in at this milage? Ready to replace or good to go? On a different subject how is your p-pump conversion working out do you still like it?



Thanks to all who have replied.

Jed
 
The only time my truck was drove easy was when it was put on the car hauler from the factory. But with 220k it still has the factory turbo and it has been pushing 45 psi for the last 140k. It has a little play, but nothing bad.
 
45 psi for 140K ? I'm amazed that thing hasn't puked. I'd try it but I don't have studs yet. The drive pressure at that level must be 60-70?
 
I've seen FL80s with over 300k on original turbos, abuse and maintenance seem to be the key things. RVs tend to not suffer from failed turbos, but the wastegates rust up and on ISBs they set check engine lights, typically RVs go about 80-90k on a turbo just from sitting.





-Will
 
Jed.

At that mileage all was well. Once I settle on a setup I am going to have mine checked at 50k. It is pretty inexpensive to have the bearings and seals replaced. I don't drive mine real hard. P-pump conversion is doing better. I have just a couple of little bugs to work out.
 
Mines been faithful for 180k, it's been turned up for the past 130,000 miles. Seen 30 to very high 40s far far to many times to count. And the real test was the dozens of 20 to 0 psi barks while towing in the Rockies with the HHT Stage 11 compressor the past three falls.



Yeah, I think these babies are tough.



Man, I guess I've done it now. I'd better start looking for a replacement.



RJR
 
I just realized that you're running a 16 housing. That would probably explain how you can run that much boost with the 35 and not have problems on the drive side.



I only have the 12 so it gets choked up quick.



I try not to go above 1700* :D
 
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