How long have your factory batteries lasted?

[RVTRKN]

The reason some trucks/cars can go longer between battery failure, is usage. The battery that is kept fully charged, that is used every day, will more likely last longer than the vehicle that sits in the driveway for weeks. BTW, my 2007 truck on its second set with only 55K miles. The modern battery likes to be kept fully charged, and if they are used in that manner, can last for years.

 

[BILLVO]

116K on my 05 and still factory batteries and it is lucky to get driven once a month or less sometimes in the winter. The last 2-3 years it has only gotten 7-10K a year put on it, pretty good for the North country, Got about the same out of my old 02 think they lasted 9 years and well over 100K as well.

 

[Doc12]

my 04.5 with 183000 miles on it still had the original batteries in it when I traded it on my 2014

 

[diesel_driver]

I purchased my truck in October 2003 and I still have the factory batteries installed. My truck is a 3500 Quad Cab short bed 4x4. I have about 129,000 miles on it. In the past, I towed a 14" enclosed trailer that I used for my construction business. I now tow a 20' enclosed car hauler. It is used for my motorcycle road racing bikes and equipment.

As a side story, I replaced my factory tires at 104,000 miles. They still had a little tread on them, hadn't hit the wear bars yet! They were worn evenly with no cupping. They were never rotated. I was so impressed with their life that I purchased a new set of identical Michelin tires.

My dad has had two Dodge trucks, his last being a 2008 dually, and he is amazed at how things have held up on my truck. I admit, the use and longevity I'm getting out of this truck is not normal, at least for everything but the fuel pumps! I am on my 3rd fuel pump. I have the external pump, not the tank mounted style. The next pump is going to be aftermarket for sure.

 

[rscurtis]

I changed out the original batteries on my signature truck in Sept of 2011, and kept them to start small engines and generators, charging them occasionally. Last week, I used them to start a Kohler Magnum engine, and they both died at the same time. There's something to be said for consistency.

The OEM Michelins are still doing fine at 92K miles- as are the original brakes and ball joints.

 

[SierraRam]

I have just installed my second set in seven years, both failures have been on the passenger side battery with a failed cell. Both sets lasted 3.5 years. I always replace them as a set. I am beginning to wonder if the heat from the turbo/exhaust side of the motor is shortening the life of the battery? Both times the passenger battery started puking fluid I disconnected the + terminal and drove with just the drivers side battery for a few days.

I am not easy on these batteries with on board air and off road lighting as well as jumping out a lot of friends throughout the years.

 

[RVTRKN]

Check your terminals on a monthly basis for corrosion and clean them. I've been told the issue of the passenger batteries failure is because the alternator cooks them thinking they need charging. Maybe Sag2 or Bob4x4 can explain in detail. I had to replace mine due to this phenomenon.

 

[seafish]

The passenger battery failing due to overcharging has little to do with excess heat from the turbo, but much to do with the quality of the battery connections. In fact, the ecm DOES set charge voltage based on what it sees at the Drivers side battery, but the alternator charges first through the passenger side battery and then the crossover cable carries the voltage to the drivers side battery. If ANYTHING inhibits the distribution of charge between the two batteries (i.e. terminal connections, crossover cable or bad cell inside one of the batteries), then the passenger battery will see increased charge voltage, increased heat and eventual failure from overcharging. The most important item to check, after the terminal ends and body ground points, is simply the large crossover cable. For whatever reason, it can and does begin to corrode UNDERNEATH the insulation, within the first few inches of the terminals. If this is your second passenger side battery failing and you have checked EACH and ALL of the other battery cable connections, I would strongly suggest using an ohmmeter to check resistance of both a new and your existing cable or peel back the insulation from each end of the crossover cable and inspect it for corrosion. You could also use a DMM to check the charge voltage at each battery once you have replaced them battery…if it is different by more then a point or two with the truck running, it would indicate a problem in the crossover cable (that is if you have already checked the other connections). All that being said, I have read of MANY owners whose PS side battery failures which were due to overcharging where the culprit was in fact the crossover cable.

 

[Crunch]

You could also use a DMM to check the charge voltage at each battery once you have replaced them battery…if it is different by more then a point or two with the truck running, it would indicate a problem in the crossover cable (that is if you have already checked the other connections). All that being said, I have read of MANY owners whose PS side battery failures which were due to overcharging where the culprit was in fact the crossover cable.

Very logical reasoning. My first set lasted 9 years, but my second set lasts two months past 3 years. I've had some corrosion issues, and when I installed the first replacements I ended up cutting a bit off some cables because of the corrosion creeping back under the insulation. I don't remember if one of those was the crossover. But heed the warning that the bean counters in the upper offices have trimmed the length of the batteries cables to barely enough as it is. When the second set failed I bought the Optima batteries, and the cables are at their minimum length to reach the posts. So be cautious when trimming them. I've looked at replacement cables, but a full set is in the vicinity of $500, you install them. I think that the driver's side positive cable is actually a fairly complex harness. Fortunately, the crossover cable is the easiest to change out. I may spend the bucks for that. I've considered manufacturing replacement cables with cables and terminals I buy off the shelf. Lowes or Home Depot sell electrical cable by the foot, but I don't know if it could take the heat. If it can, you could decrease resistance even further with a larger gauge cable. I like the idea of the factory connections on the OEM cables, but if the corrosion is getting under that factory end they aren't doing much good, and are more difficult to deal with than a manufactured set. The last resort would be to cut the cables back far enough to eliminate all the corrosion, and add a short length of battery cable between the terminals and the factory cables. I've also considered the secondary connections on the side of the Optima batteries. I could route some of the branch wires on the cables to these, instead of the terminals.

But that's good information about the crossover cable. It may be the best electrical problem you can have with the batteries. Certainly better than ECM malfunctions and phantom power draws.

 

[seafish]

If you are going to make your own cables, consider using these or another quality mil spec battery terminal--

http://www.mcmaster.com/#mil.-spec.-battery-terminal-clamps/=ijo5lv

 

[Crunch]

If you are going to make your own cables, consider using these or another quality mil spec battery terminal--

http://www.mcmaster.com/#mil.-spec.-battery-terminal-clamps/=ijo5lv

Thanks. Just bookmarked that link, and the link to their cables:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#battery-cable/=vroh0m

Reasonable prices, too.

 

[seafish]

McMaster is WAY more reasonable with their prices then Graingers, yet has impeccable customer service and quick shipping. If you are a business with good credit, they will even invoice you if you ask them to instead of having to use a credit card.

NICE find on their battery cables…never though to look for them.

Pretty sure that our crossover cables are 2/0 AWG (someone please correct me if I am wrong) but it certainly wouldn't hurt to go up one size for only $1.50/foot more.

 

[Sleeper1]

A couple of weeks ago when I went to start my truck it just made a clicking sound. I turned off the ignition and tried it again and she fired right up. That evening I checked all connections. There was no corrosion, so I put a wrench on all connectors, knowing that a loose ground could be the culprit. My truck started normally every time, til this morning. Once again it just clicked and wouldn't start.
I'm pretty sure I have at least one bad battery, they are 5 years old. $281 for OEM batteries at the dealer. Any opinions on if I'm doing the right thing? Truck has been flawless until now. TIA

 

[mwilson]

Mine are dying at 140,000. Nine years old. No complaints!

 

[Sleeper1]

Mine made it to 71,000. Truck sits a lot in the winter (salt + Ram sheet metal =RUST) I think that's hard on batteries, not having a constant charge.

 

[jgillott]

Mine are dying at 140,000. Nine years old. No complaints!

I just did mine this summer. Probably could have gone a little longer. But in the extreme cold last winter, my original ones were marginal at best. As you said, no complaints with 8 years on batteries.

 

[ranger 393]

I have 66,000 miles on my '06 and I don't feel like getting stranded somewhere. I know battery life varies wildly with actual use but I'm wondering how long most of your factory batteries lasted.



Mine's a daily driver, 30 miles to work one-way, short trips during the day a couple of times a week. I don't drive too much on the weekends.



I'm thinking of Optima batteries. Any opinions or experiences? I know they just did a write-up on these in the last issue of TDR but I just wanted more opinions.

Right at 10 years on factory batteries, replaced them with optimas..

 

[mwilson]

I'll try to finish the season. It's fine if you start it every day. Just went out to start it after sitting since last Sunday and it struggled. 32 here last night and a second round with the grid heater would have killed it.

Don't want to buy a new set right now as it will be going into storage about 3 weeks from now. Will buy it a new set of Cat Batteries in the spring.

 

[Sleeper1]

mwilson, How far away is Lincoln from Hermon, Me? In 1982 I attended Hermon Hawks elementary school. I lived on Hermon Pond with my mother. I have fond memories of Maine. I enjoyed our trips to Baxter and Acadia State/National Parks. Bar Harbor was my favorite, I don't think I ever got tired of Lobster. It was $1.35 a pound back then. I remember because I used my allowance quite a few times to get them.:-laf

 

[mwilson]

Hermon is about 55 miles South of me. I commute 125 miles a day round trip for work, Lincoln to Bangor and back. Several of our workers live in Hermon which is now a bedroom community for the Bangor area.

I b*tch about the winters, but it is a good place to live.