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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission How many are still running their original VP(fuel pump)?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Door adjustment

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel Gauge??

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lebar posted:



What Carter pump did you install as the pusher, did you leave the OE pump in place



I installed the 7 psi model, I believe it is a 4600. I ran it in series with the OEM, down by the tank. When I installed the pusher my plan was to replace the OEM also but the combined pressure hasn't wavered so I let it be.



The secret to installing a pusher pump in series is to power it off a relay triggered by the OEM pump. This allows the ECM to control the startup voltage which eliminates hard starts caused by too much pressure. I barely hit the key to start mine.



Good luck,

Bill
 
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When you start taking apart the fuel system and look at the banjos, you will have NO DOUBT that getting rid of them will help.



Just for kicks, look at the OEM ff to VP44 line real close and measure the ID of that one (especially the metal tube part), then try not to bite the fender trying to figuer out how the hell the DC "engineers" thought that little "orafice" could possibly provide enough fuel to "cool" the VP44, ... ... ... ... ... ... ...



Bob Weis
 
rweis said:
Just for kicks, look at the OEM ff to VP44 line real close and measure the ID of that one (especially the metal tube part), then try not to bite the fender trying to figuer out how the hell the DC "engineers" thought that little "orafice" could possibly provide enough fuel to "cool" the VP44, ... ... ... ... ... ... ...



Bob Weis



Sounds like a little baby chicks, cheap,cheap,cheap.
 
up-date..... 280,000 kms on org. VP 1 l/p with comp. taped for almost 3 years,

RASP and big line kit for 1 1/2 years.



new spare VP under the seat... ... just incase :-laf



Scott
 
I was going to carrya spare Vp as well, but the techs at SouthEast Power Systems said that it was not a good idea. Of course I asked why? Somewhat due to future updates, somewhat that you generally needed to "mothball" the pump with lubricant inside it so the seals, o rings, would not dry out, somewhat about the parts are so extremely tight fitting that any extended period of sitting would deterioate the "fit".



Not sure exactely of the details and pump reman shops should drop a comment here. I would just be somewhat cautious about sitting a pump in the "toolbox" for an extended period of time.



They dissuaded me from doing the same thing.



Bob Weis
 
I've had the worst luck with mine in the last few months. I was on the original lift pump and VP when it started acting up. Still under warranty so I took it to the dealer. Well here I am a few months later, 2 lift pumps(have the relocated one in the tank now), 4 VP44's, and one ECM. It's all been under warranty, but it is getting ridiculous. I am ready to take the truck in and trade it off. I've only got about 10k miles left in warranty and there is no way I am going through all this without the warranty.



How does everyone think the VP's are going to stand up to ULSD?
 
BryceC said:
How does everyone think the VP's are going to stand up to ULSD?



I think a lot of places are already running ULSD out of the pumps and have been for a while... I know they have around here for about 6 months now...



I'm wondering if your VP44 issues are stemming from not having sufficient pressure at the inlet because of the marginally adequate in-tank fuel pump??



steved
 
BryceC, a friend of mine had a similar string of problems like you. Seems that eventually he launched an all out assult on the problem and decided to replace the ENTIRE fueling system. Upon removal the steel fuel lines between the tank and the lift pump had rusted and were allowing air to be sucked into the fuel system. He replaced the lines and returned the remainder of the parts and the truck runs fine today.
 
Totally rebuilding this fuel system is not a half bad idea. Then you KNOW what you have and where.



My . 02 is I think the fuel system totally SUCKS and should be rebuilt as one of the very first bombs. It would save a LOT of headaches later on.



Bob Weis



Someone posted that the ULSF has 5% bio in it as a lubricant. BOSCH says NO bio at all. I wonder how that is going to play out.
 
rholcom2 said:
BryceC, a friend of mine had a similar string of problems like you. Seems that eventually he launched an all out assult on the problem and decided to replace the ENTIRE fueling system. Upon removal the steel fuel lines between the tank and the lift pump had rusted and were allowing air to be sucked into the fuel system. He replaced the lines and returned the remainder of the parts and the truck runs fine today.





Were the lines rusted inside the tank? It seems to me if the lines were rusted outside of the tank between the lift pump and VP then I would see a leak after I shut it off.
 
steved said:
I think a lot of places are already running ULSD out of the pumps and have been for a while... I know they have around here for about 6 months now...



I think we are pretty mixed around here. A lot of the stations have stickers up saying that it is still LSD and not to run it in any 2007 or newer vehicle.



steved said:
I'm wondering if your VP44 issues are stemming from not having sufficient pressure at the inlet because of the marginally adequate in-tank fuel pump??



The dealer says that the in tank pump should have more pressure then the original pump. I have a damn hard time believing it. I am thinking what I need is the original lift pump in it's factory location combined with the in tank pump.
 
I am thinking what I need is the original lift pump in it's factory location combined with the in tank pump.



This is a do-able idea but caution is advised. Here is why. Say the normal on the block LP can push 10 to 12 psi and now you add the in-tank pump that can push say 15 psi. Your output from the pump nearest the VP will be a combination of the two for 25 to 27 psi depending on your line size and length and such. This (too much of a good thing) can lead to other problems that are just as damaging to the VP as loss of fuel pressure.



If you are thinking in series and can adjust the pressure, then you might consider the first pump picking up fuel with a 1/2 inch I. D. line and it's output pressure at maybe 2 psi via 3/8th line to the second LP that would have an output of 12 psi though a stock fuel line to the VP. This way you avoid cavitation and starvation and can maintain a nice feed pressure to the LP at the engine.



Just a suggestion and food for thought ;)
 
The way the RASP get the psi right is a bypass valve just before the Vp44 set at 14 psi. Anything over 14 psi that the VP44 is not using goes back to the tank. A very simple system. It is a spring actuated bypass valve so if you want a different psi you can set whatever you want by adjusting the spring.



IF I had a system that created more than 14 psi I would contact Ollie Poole (PowerbyPoole.com) and see if he could get me just the bypass valve (I think he sells RASP kits).



Other than the mechanical pump aspect (which I like), the simple bypass valve is a concept that applies to any fuel system.



Cheap, effective. Just borrow an idea from a system that works well.



Bob Weis
 
Yep - mine gave up the ghost at 195K the other day too. Lift pump was shot again too. But it seems that mine was a 'putor issue and not a hard part failure. So the lift pump can't be held liable for this one.
 
There was no warning signs at all - just quit. After a while I could get it to start - barely and idle at 400rpm (chugging). I told this to Chip @ Blue Chip and he thought that it was prolly the little putor board on the pump.



Either way - a new pump fixed it and runs down the road once aggin. :)
 
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