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How many tow with limited slip or locker?

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Professional Trailer Towing ?'s

Chief USA

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I probably should have asked this question in this forum sooner. I was driving across a yard after dropping off a trailer to load with logs and one wheel rear started to slip. My buddy was driving behind me and he watched it. I put it in 4 HI and went on about my business.



Yesterday I took the truck in to the dealer to have a broken filter minder replaced and asked them if they could check the diff. as one wheel was slipping. I thought it was limited slip. They checked and told me it was an open diff. I checked my window sticker and they ran the VIN# to verify and sure enough, not anti-spin option appeared.



I tow pretty often and get kinda heavy pulling logs and my Sea Ray. So far I have not had many issues with tire slippage. Both tires try to spin even on a wet boat ramp.



I will try to wrap my questions up in a nut shell:



1. How can I determine for sure if I have limited slip or not? (already asked this question in the 2nd Gen forum)



2. With the towing and uses put the truck through, do I really need this. (seems like it would be nice off road which I do more than occasionally)



3. For towing, what is the best device to use? Limited slip or locker. (from what I have read, the locker is not a good idea for towing)



4. Am I worrying over nothing here? Or as we used to say in the military "pole vaulting over mouse turds"? Best not to fix it if it ain't broke.





The ARB locker seems like a good choice but the cost is "sticker shocking" . ;) The installation I am not too keen on drilling holes in my axle.



The Detroit Locker seems simple enough to install but is not a good choice for use in towing from what I have read.



Sure would appreciate some feedback on what you guys use for towing. Thanks.
 
My previous 1996 3500 was a "peg-leg" (open differential) 2WD! :eek: We pulled an 11,000 lb and then a 13,500 lb 5th wheel with it for 6 years without ever getting stuck. We had to buy this truck in a hurry (no time to order one), and the one the dealer had on the lot did not have the limited slip.



When I ordered my current truck (see signature), I made sure that it had the limited slip differential. We're towing the 13,500 lb 5th wheel and hit the road at 21,180 lbs GCW (21,500 GCWR). Never been stuck in this truck, either.



Rusty
 
You dont have to have it, but is nice to have when you need it. Jack up the rear end. Turn one wheel. If it is an open diff, the other tire will turn the opposite direction.



Robin
 
I talked with Barney at Reider Racing today and he tells me that the Detroit and Loc-Rite type lockers are definitely out for towing. The only other limited slip available for the Dana 80 is the Trac-Loc from Dana. Guess I better start saving my money for that and the exhaust brake, and the Mag-Hytech covers, and ... ... ... ... ..... :D Thanks for the replies.
 
I had limited slip in my 96 and do not in my current 03. It was nice to have off road. I have noticed no diffrence towing however. The added toung weight of the trailer seems to provide the traction needed even with the open diff. I try to stay out of the mud holes with the trailer though. :rolleyes:

-Scott
 
I had to pull a trailer out for a Chevy that had an open diff, he dug one massive hole. I dont think the 4wd even played a part in getting his trailer out. My Dana 80 has the clutch pack reworked and put in the correct order with one additonal disk added, I can (and have) put one side in wet grass and the other on pavement and left skid marks on the road. The limited slip will make 100% improvement at times. I think you will find that a clutch type locker is the best for towing. Dont think you need a LSD? Get one wheel packed with mud and you will be calling for help. I've had both, and sooner or later the open diff WILL leave you spinnng one wheel.
 
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Tejas Deezul, did you rework the posi unit yourself or did you have a shop do it? Where exactly if you had a shop do it? I would prefer to buy a modified or reworked diff. like you describe than buy a stock unit. I am definitely tracking with what you are saying about sooner or later getting stuck.
 
I have a factory LSD, I think it is a "power-lock", the newest design with the V-notches for the cross pins. I found the instructions here on the TDR and took them to a mechanic. We pulled the carrier, removed the clutch pack and put it back together alternating the clutch disks and plates. There was one extra disk which we traded for a plate (whatever you call it). It was filled with 7 quarts of Valvoline 75W-90 and two bottles of OEM modifier, I am thinking about adding another bottle of modifier because I would like a little more slip on gravel roads. A junk yard might be a source for the donor carrier assembly, just make sure it is a 3. 55, 4. 10's have a different carrier and wont fit your 3. 55. The LSD is invaluable pulling the boat up wet ramps. As others have said here, if the truck is used for hauling loads on pavement the LSD is not needed and a non-LSD diff has less need for lubricant changes (no clutch material to wear off in the lubricant) but if you venture off road, wet boat ramps, or soggy camp grounds than the LSD will help considerably. Dont get an OEM limited slip and not rearange the clutch pack, it doesnt work well in the OEM setup. Ford Dana 80's are set up just like Dodges and dont work either unless you set the clutch pack in the correct order. The actual process of taking the clutch pack out and setting it correct is easy, the hard part would be setting the shims without the proper tools. I dont know if you could just order a clutch kit and install it in an open diff. I can find out if you need me to.
 
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I appreciate the reply as this is a big help with the information I am trying to educate myself with. I figure it is much better to take my time and find out what works best for the buck spent in my application.
 
You have 4 wheel drive that will probably get you out of most sticky situations. Differential modifications are expensive, the return on the investment is questionable. I'd take that money and invest it in an exhaust brake and mag-hytec differential cover first. If you tow a lot the exhaust brake will extend the service life of the brakes by a huge margin. The cover almost doubles the capacity, and helps keep the temps down.



My truck is 2 wheel drive, that was the only reason I made sure it had the LSD. The mag-hytec covers are awesome, well worth the money IMHO. The dipstick and drain plugs make servicing a piece of cake.
 
slo-ryde, thanks for the reply. I pretty well am thinking along the reasoning you stated. The limited slip will get put on the list behind the exhaust brake and I may do the mag-hytech covers at the same time I do the limited slip diff.



I see that you have Darin's steering modification. How much difference did you notice on your truck. I just had my steering box replaced not long ago and it helped tremendously. I am wondering if Darin's mod. might help even more?



Biggest problem is deciding what mods. to make in what order!

;)
 
Originally posted by rfrazier

slo-ryde, thanks for the reply. I pretty well am thinking along the reasoning you stated. The limited slip will get put on the list behind the exhaust brake and I may do the mag-hytech covers at the same time I do the limited slip diff.



I see that you have Darin's steering modification. How much difference did you notice on your truck. I just had my steering box replaced not long ago and it helped tremendously. I am wondering if Darin's mod. might help even more?



Biggest problem is deciding what mods. to make in what order!

;)



I can't say that the DSS made a huge difference. The one place I really notice an improvement is when making sudden directional changes, the front really snaps around now. Before the front had a disconected, unresponsive feel to it.



The mechanics at the local dealership think the DSS is kind of cool, they know all about how the steering boxes don't last and can see how it will take a lot of stress off the sector shaft.
 
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