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How much fuel pressure should I have?

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I changed out the fuel filter cap with one with a 1/8" npt port for a fuel pressure gauge. I wanted to know how much fuel pressure I should have at idle (minimum / maximum) and how much under load (minimum / maximum)? As I understand it the gauge set up I have is reading fuel pressure before it has been filtered (the fuel from the tank lift pump to the filter) for the engine. Is that right?



Anyway, whats the deal? BTW in the future I do intend to mount a gauge on the fuel filter outlet line (the one out of the fuel filter to the high pressure pump) so I can get a more accurate reading on fuel filter condition. This project is just something temporary.



Thanks in advance,



-Troy
 
I don't know for sure. Mine reads 8 to 10 but as I found out last week a FP gauge is pretty much worthless. It was reading right where it always has when the LP died. They told me the gauge measures pressure, but volume is what is important. :rolleyes:
 
I was getting 9-10 an could pull down to 0 with no pusher pump but now I see 14-15 an only comes down to 8 on a wide open run this is takin at inlet of cp3 with manual gauge.
 
I am seeing 9 on mine and when getting into it she drops to about 5. Is that a problem? Does running straight bio diesel make a difference in psi? I would not think so.
 
Glock Guru:



I see right at 10lbs at idle and under WOT my pressure drops to 7 lbs. My truck is completely stock right now and I have the new "DiPricol OPTIX" Gauges in the truck. BTW,... ... . I own two Glocks myself; a Model 17 (9mm)

and a Model 21 (. 45)! ;)



Take care buddy!



-------

John_P
 
John_P said:
Glock Guru:



I see right at 10lbs at idle and under WOT my pressure drops to 7 lbs. My truck is completely stock right now and I have the new "DiPricol OPTIX" Gauges in the truck. BTW,... ... . I own two Glocks myself; a Model 17 (9mm)

and a Model 21 (. 45)! ;)



Take care buddy!



-------

John_P



Never shoulda sold that 17 to my brother, but the 21 is, well, still awsome!!
 
lostronin:



I hear you on your sale of the Glock 17! Like you, I like both of mine. I know alot of people don't care for Glocks but IMO they are darn tough, durable pistols. The "argument" I hear the most around here is that "they don't have a "real" safety;... ..... such as that on say a Colt 1911 or a Sig. But, my answer to that is; "A Man Has to Know his Limitations!" :-laf



-------

John_P
 
I have three Sigs x2 220 and x1 230 and they have no safety. My 1911 has one. What I like about the Glocks is they are dishwasher safe. :-laf :-laf :-laf
 
back on topic... how important is it to get ALL of the air out of the gauge side between the isolator and the gauge?



i have a bit of air in there and it is bothering me, but would require a full tear down to get the air out... what a PITA...



also i am getting 7 to 8 at idle and it only drops down to about 5 at WOT. my VAN aaken smart box is kicking EGT's WAY up so i guess its time for a larger turbo and better intake system as well... more money... whoo hoo!
 
Getting the air out is pretty important. The guage wont necessarily tell you of impending lift pump death, they don't all die a slow death some go out running like new.



As to weapons, Glocks are first rate, my brother the cop loves 'em. Me I always shoot high with a Glock, Im a M1911 guy myself. Good shootin and good sootin gotta love 'em.
 
hmm, maybe ill splice a "T" into the middle of the line, then get a cap for it and a valve... that would make it EASY to top off the fluid... .



thanks for the input.
 
My Optix instructions said you only needed coolant in the isolator if the sending tube to the gauge was kept under six feet. My gauge will go up to 10 psi before cranking and when started will fall back to 8 psi at idle.
 
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