Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) How much horse power do I have approx?

[T. Baker]

I have a '96 engine wich was an auto but now its got a standard trans. I have 370s, a 3k gsk, Timing set at 15, 3. 5" strait pipe, 0 plate, waste gate controler I can set anywhere and Big intercooler from a power stroke. How much horse power do you think I can make at say 1400 deg egt before turbo. Oh yea, stock turbo. I'll never dyno because my rear axel is not strong enough to take it. Just curious.

 

[Deezul1]

Maybe 375- 400. I dont about the 0 plate, hard to know specs on hat. Dont be afraid of the Dyno I have been told that the dyno stress the drive line quit a bit less than the street does. When I dynoed my clutch would slip in 4th and 5th when the boost hit 25lbs but didnt slip at all on the dyno and it went 389hp

 

[Strick-9]

Since you said what power at 1400°F pyro temp, I'd say about 240HP as a guess.



What mods have you made that give you more power at the same EGT? Camshafts, more efficient turbos, ported heads, stuff like that.



Camplates, injectors and gov. spring kits give you more power but not at the same EGT.



For reference, I think my truck makes about 220 HP at 1200°. It's a little low because of the huge turbo.



Talk to Piers about making more power at a certain EGT. Or BPINE. They are both knowledgable about power you can use 100% of the time.



You need to get on a dyno that loads the truck down and holds it under constant load. Fuel it up to 1400° and see what HP you get.



-Chris

 

[T. Baker]

Chris, with all the things I did I only make 60 hp over stock? I thought just a cam plate alone would do that. Of course I am not limited to 1400deg. I only was wondering about power for short bursts anyway. I am not towing.

 

[patrobertson]

Question for Deezul 1

Hey Deezul what turbo do you have, is it the stock hx 35? with a 16cm housing? I have a 96 with #11 and tiiming bumped. I want to be in the 400 hp range and you have the same set up but with 4k GSk and 370's. I want 400 and know that I need more fuel the 370's and cooling the 16cm but I am still not sure on GSK kits maybe the 3k I would be scared of the 4k don't have enough money to grenade a motor. I would love to pick up a hx40 and Piers do there magic but I want to know price comparison. New housing are cheap turbos aren't.



When you dynoed 417 what was the torgue and where were the peaks? Thanks alot.



Shane Robertson

 

[Strick-9]

I guess I misunderstood this statement.

How much horse power do you think I can make at say 1400 deg egt before turbo

With unlimited EGT, yes, you'll make a LOT more power for short bursts.



-Chris

 

[MikeR]

Originally posted by Deezul 1

Dont be afraid of the Dyno I have been told that the dyno stress the drive line quit a bit less than the street does.

WRONG! Dynoing is the absolute hardest thing you could possibly do to your driveline. On the street, if you apply too much power, you simply peel-out (break traction). On the dyno, your truck is strapped down to the ground to keep you from breaking any traction. Axles and springs wrap and twist hard and is much harder on the transmission.



-Mike

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I disagree... .



I think that sled pulling or off roading is a bit worse.

I blew apart a CV shaft and a front diff off roading..... that sort of thing never happened in 150,000 miles of on-highway driving or dyno pulls.



Shock load your drivetrain..... get the truck airborne at WOT and don't take your foot off the soot pedal. Once it does get traction when it lands... . make sure your earplugs are tight... something will go boom.



Use a trans-brake... . it is often the "Grim Reaper" of driveline parts... it weeds out the weak stuff in a real hurry.



Dynos put less of a load on your drivetrain than just driving around (in most cases). I have yet to see street boost levels on a dyno... .



Matt

 

[Deezul1]

Originally posted by MikeR





WRONG! Dynoing is the absolute hardest thing you could possibly do to your driveline. On the street, if you apply too much power, you simply peel-out (break traction). On the dyno, your truck is strapped down to the ground to keep you from breaking any traction. Axles and springs wrap and twist hard and is much harder on the transmission.



-Mike

If that is true why wont a stock clutch slip on the dyno and slips really bad on the street, the power transfer to the dyno rollers is less than on the street or the same slippy clutch would slip on the dyno. That was my experience and it is hard to deny that the power to slip the clutch wasnt being generated as the clutch wasnt slipping.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Depends on the kind of dyno. The Dynojet is easier on the drivetrain than driving the truck on the street.

With the right mods you should be able to use at least 400 hp. Mine dyno'ed a while back at 565 hp at 1050 in the elbow, 36 psi, so about 1400 deg.

 

[Deezul1]

Shane

My turbo is the stock HX35 12cm. Get the 4K kit you dont have to rev it to 4K, I bet you never drove a car that you counted on the engine controls to keep you from over revving it, I dont drive mine any different than before the 4 K springs except when its race time and then I am watching the tach. When I dynoed 417 there wasnt any rpm pickup available so no torgue readings. When I dynoed 389hp the torque was 883 at 2200rpm.

 

[Strick-9]

Joe,



Your comments crack me up.



How long does your typical dynojet run last? 4-6 seconds? Are you telling these people that your pyrometer not to mention your engine has reached an equilibrium state in those 4 seconds? Or was that slow reacting thermocouple still climbing when you took your foot off the throttle?



Since you're the chemist you should be very good at analyzing test equipment. What's the response time of this pyrometer/thermocouple?



If your thermocouple hasn't reached an equilibrium, why publish those figures? I normally would expect more from a professional in the science field.



-Chris