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How much smoke is "too much"?

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Well, I'm trying to get the best of both worlds, power and little smoke. I slide my stock torque plate and have spun the AFC wheel about 5 clicks as of now (20 initially and about 15 back). The engine seemed to respond better once I backed the AFC wheel off, but I still get smoke when accelerating/shifting pre-boost, which isn't that bad, I just feel bad for the people behind me. #ad
However, if I put the hammer down on the freeway to pass I get quite a bit of smoke both before and after the turbo spools up. At what point should I just give in and get used to it? I'm not sure yet how much is typical, my assumtion, though, is that smoke = wasted/unburned fuel, so I'm thinking once I turn the AFC wheel back enough to get little to no smoke I should be at the point of best performance and efficiency? Or is that incorrect? #ad
Thanks for the info, y'all are awesome.

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'97 2500 CC SLT 4x2, B5. 9, NV4500HD, 3. 54s, slid torque plate, no silencer ring
'98 Jeep Cherokee
'47 Willys CJ-2A, 302 v8, auto, 5. 38s, locked and ready to ROCK.
 
I tried to adjust my CTD for minimal smoke but the result was minimal hp also. So I said the heck with it and set it give real good response and to use my right foot to control smoke. I then noticed that a lot of the big rigs and the city buses were putting out just as much smoke as me, but it wasn't offensive because it was being blown up high and not at ground level. This past weekend I installed a stack exhaust. When I get on it hard I can see NO smoke in my outside mirrors. Before I would see a huge dark grey cloud from ground level to about 6 feet high. The smoke level is still the same, only now it is being blown up high where it is not as offensive and pretty much dissipates by the time it gets to ground level. Now I don't hesitate to get on it and will pull out in smaller breaks in traffic whereas before I would wait for a larger break because I did not want the approaching cars to have this huge smoke cloud obscuring their vision. I love it.

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1996 3500 Clubcab SLT, auto, 4. 10 limited-slip, TST #5, 370s, AFC spring kit, Psychotty, Dunrite converter, Trans-Go, DiPricol EGT, boost & trans temp. gauges, 9 ft. aluminum flatbed and tool boxes with Venco dump. Custom front bumper, Hadley air horn, PowerVision mirrors & 4" Stack Exhaust.
 
Thanks guys, I'll leave it where it is, then. #ad
I'm real happy with the performance, just wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was missing. #ad


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'97 2500 CC SLT 4x2, B5. 9, NV4500HD, 3. 54s, slid torque plate, no silencer ring
'98 Jeep Cherokee
'47 Willys CJ-2A, 302 v8, auto, 5. 38s, locked and ready to ROCK.
 
Koa Man, I did the same thing.
Plate full foward and wheel spun some.
I got alot of smoke and less mpg. avg 16 mpg.
I tightened the wheel a couple more times [a little at a time]
The smoke has just about quit with normal driving.
My last adj. was at 1/4 tank. The gauge was on E today when I filled
it up. Est. 20 mpg. With a full tank now, I think I'll
hope to get 22 or so.
The best part, I haven't lost any power yet. #ad




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97 3500 SLT REDext cab duelly p/u 5sp 3:54 2wd 245/75R16
3" straight exhaust stock torque plate slid full foward star wheel tweeked
105,000 miles still with plenty of ZOOM... ZOOM... ZOOM

RON Z
 
Not trying to sound too inconsiderate but as far as I know the smoke only comes out"behind" the truck right? So whats the problem?

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Jeff Swiney
98 SLT QC 4X4 Auto LWB Rhino Liner
Silencer Ring gone
Stock Plate all the way Forward 75 Clicks on Star Wheel Waiting on more Parts/Power
Just Fixin To Be Bombed
 
Also not trying to be inconciderate ,but is there such a thing as to much of that beautiful black smoke? "They can't catch what they can't see!"
 
"Koa Man":

I can't resist it. I have to add to
your formula:

Smoke=excess fuel burning=less MPG=MORE
POWER=MORE FUN!!!
 
Originally posted by John_P:
"Koa Man":

I can't resist it. I have to add to
your formula:

Smoke=excess fuel burning=less MPG=MORE
POWER=MORE FUN!!!

Unfortunately there should be = WASHED DOWN CYLINDERS = EXCESSIVE WEAR in there too.



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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves
 
how exactly do you wash down the cylinder walls with diesel? Being basically oil "washing" down the walls would do nothing. I do agree with more wear over a long time but excessive seems a bit extreem considering I'm at 135k and over 500hp.
 
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