How quick before Cummins w/ no oil is trashed??

[HSchroen]

I will be keeping the transmission... . its an automatic anyway. I'm located between Dallas and Ft. Worth, Texas. Once I get her home I will take pictures of the parts I wont be using and post them in the Classifieds (or here if I cant post them there). Thanks.

 

[HSchroen]

I went ahead and threw the front and rear differntials/axles on Ebay... if you do a search under my username "gts95" you should find them.

 

[bgilbert]

You already have a Dana 70 for your conversion?

 

[HSchroen]

I'm leaving the original Dana 60 in it. Do I need a Dana 70?

You already have a Dana 70 for your conversion?

 

[bgilbert]

I'm leaving the original Dana 60 in it. Do I need a Dana 70?

Oh my, where have you been, haven't you been reading TDR?? Yes you need a Dana 70 even for a stock Cummins. That 60 might last a few, but don't drop the hammer, bomb the Cummins or tow with it if you want the 60 to last. Why do you think Dodge used a 70 and not a 60 in 1989 when the Cummins was first introduced??



Heck just pull the rear 70 ad on ebay, say it was sold locally. Then try to sell the 60 rear.



What else are you selling that you thought you wouldn't need ?

 

[HSchroen]

No need to be a smart*****. This is my first foray into Diesel trucks, I'm learning, I thought the 60 could handle it. I really want to keep my 4. 10 gears, the 70 has 3. 54's. And yes, I know the gears can be swapped, but I'm working on a tight budget and need to recoup some of my investment.

Dare I ask, what the difference it between a 60 and 70?

Oh my, where have you been, haven't you been reading TDR?? Yes you need a Dana 70 even for a stock Cummins. That 60 might last a few, but don't drop the hammer, bomb the Cummins or tow with it if you want the 60 to last. Why do you think Dodge used a 70 and not a 60 in 1989 when the Cummins was first introduced??



Heck just pull the rear 70 ad on ebay, say it was sold locally. Then try to sell the 60 rear.



What else are you selling that you thought you wouldn't need ?

 

[bgilbert]

Sorry if I came off as a smartbutt. Wasn't my intention. The 60 and 70 are two different axles. As far as technical differences, I suggest you start a new thread, as it will get much more exposure than in this 2 page thread. Something like Dana 60 vs. Dana 70 etc.

 

[HSchroen]

Well, I did a quick search on the TDR on that topic... I guess the axle tubes abnd spider gears, just to name a couple things, are different (stronger) on the Dana 70. I think you are right I'm going to end the auction right now.

Thanks for the heads up!

Sorry if any of you guys were bidding on it!

Sorry if I came off as a smartbutt. Wasn't my intention. The 60 and 70 are two different axles. As far as technical differences, I suggest you start a new thread, as it will get much more exposure than in this 2 page thread. Something like Dana 60 vs. Dana 70 etc.

 

[boatpuller]

No need to be a smart*****. This is my first foray into Diesel trucks, I'm learning, I thought the 60 could handle it. I really want to keep my 4. 10 gears, the 70 has 3. 54's. And yes, I know the gears can be swapped, but I'm working on a tight budget and need to recoup some of my investment.

Dare I ask, what the difference it between a 60 and 70?

Unless you are going to tow really heavy or put huge tires on it the 3. 54's will work better with the Cummins, the 4:10's will really limit your speed on the highway. My $. 02.



Caleb

 

[HSchroen]

Thanks guys, I should have done my homework on this in more detail. I paid attention to the Cummins conversions threads, but somehow missed taking into consideration that a rearend swap would be necessary. I'm used to thinking the Dana 60 is the "bullet proof" rearend... thats coming from them being put in the old Hemi and 440 4-spd Mopar muscle cars.

I'm definately swapping in the Dana 70 rear.

Unless you are going to tow really heavy or put huge tires on it the 3. 54's will work better with the Cummins, the 4:10's will really limit your speed on the highway. My $. 02.



Caleb

 

[EarlKann]

I did the same thing that I think you are doing. Kept the D60 that was already in the front of my crew and swapped out the rear D60 for the diesel D70. Now my front has 4. 10 and my rear has 3. 54 :{ But... . It looks like I may have just scored a D70 with factory 4. 10 for $300 Oo. Much cheaper that the gear change I was planning on. Keep your eyes peeled in the classifieds and keep checking www.car-part for a 4. 10 D70.



I had to have a whole new drive shaft made for the D70 rear in my crew. The one from my donor was about 1. 5" to short. Mine was a std cab though so your club cab drive shaft may just need to be shortened which would be cheaper.

 

[HSchroen]

I've been watching your thread closely... . need to go see if you updated it! Obviously, you want the 4. 10's... . I'm really undecided. From what I have read here alot of people like the 3. 54's. My only experience with this is with a 2003 3500 SRW that had stock 3. 73's and 6-spd. It seemed to be a pretty good match... . honestly 3. 54's probably would have worked just as well. On the other hand, the new Cummins makes alot more power (stock to stock) than the 1st Gens... and my '03 3500 was a 2wd, not 4x4.

My thought was the heavier 4x4 of our Crews, coupled with less power, would need the 4. 10s. I plan on pulling about 14,000 pounds... . only on occasion however.

I'm going to go ahead and put the 3. 54 D70 in and see what happens. If I find it sufficient I'll swap the 3. 54 front in too. Or go the other route and swap the rear gears for 4. 10s.

I did the same thing that I think you are doing. Kept the D60 that was already in the front of my crew and swapped out the rear D60 for the diesel D70. Now my front has 4. 10 and my rear has 3. 54 :{ But... . It looks like I may have just scored a D70 with factory 4. 10 for $300 Oo. Much cheaper that the gear change I was planning on. Keep your eyes peeled in the classifieds and keep checking www.car-part for a 4. 10 D70.



I had to have a whole new drive shaft made for the D70 rear in my crew. The one from my donor was about 1. 5" to short. Mine was a std cab though so your club cab drive shaft may just need to be shortened which would be cheaper.

 

[boatpuller]

My only experience with this is with a 2003 3500 SRW that had stock 3. 73's and 6-spd. It seemed to be a pretty good match... . honestly 3. 54's probably would have worked just as well. On the other hand, the new Cummins makes alot more power (stock to stock) than the 1st Gens... and my '03 3500 was a 2wd, not 4x4.

My thought was the heavier 4x4 of our Crews, coupled with less power, would need the 4. 10s. I plan on pulling about 14,000 pounds... . only on occasion however.

It's my understanding(I've never owned a 24 valve) that our old 12 valves make their power at a lower RPM range than the 24 valves and that the 24 valves need to rev higher. I've towed 12-13,000 pounds a few times and my truck with 3. 54's didn't have any problem with it.



Caleb

 

[HSchroen]

OK, well I "primed" the motor best I could turning it over without letting her start (unplug fuel shutoff)..... then let her rip! She sounded good! Still took about 4-5 seconds for the oil pressure guage to swing up Of course, loud as the old CTD is I guess I may not hear any strange noises anyway, but it sounded good to me nonetheless!

I just plugged up the hole in the oilpan for temporary so I could start it before removing it from the donor truck. I've acquired a replacement pan so I'm still going to swap pans and may pull a main and rod cap just to look at a couple bearings to double check everything.

Hope to have the motor/trans combo pulled this weekend. Taking Friday off work to work solely on dismantling the donor.