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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) How to Control the Smoke w/370s ??

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Transmission problems

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I'm getting a set of 370s and a 3k GSK here shortly. (See Sig for mods).

I want to keep the smoke DOWN as much as possible. Although, letting the "Coal Roll" on occasion would be cool!

How does one set the Pump and related parts to keep a lid on the smoke from the 370s ??
 
I'd say one of the best ways to control smoke is to be as smooth as possible with the go pedal, and advance your timing. That's always good for some smoke control. Otherwise, let it roll.

-R. J.
 
Somewhere in the neighborhood of 16* should suit you fine.



Another great smoke control device is your AFC. If you still have the stock AFC spring in the AFC, leave it, dont buy the TST kit. The stock spring is mo' betta for smoke control.

--Jeff
 
pwerwagn said:
Somewhere in the neighborhood of 16* should suit you fine.

Another great smoke control device is your AFC. If you still have the stock AFC spring in the AFC, leave it, dont buy the TST kit. The stock spring is mo' betta for smoke control.
--Jeff
Does moving the AFC housing or the Star Wheel have any effect on Smoke ?? If so, HOW ??
 
A valet switch works wonders, too. I have zero smoke when I'm using it. And when I want to let the "coal roll", I simply turn it off.



Jim
 
The smoke control is your right foot. I can easily drive around w/a light foot and have no smoke. I still have some light haze though. You will see a increase in egt's w/the 370's.
 
The AFC housing and star wheel control low boost fueling. Turning the star wheel toward the engine increases fueling away decreases it. Sliding the housing has some control too, I just forget which way you slide it for more/less. As for your question... "how"... it allows the fuel rack to move further, sooner instead of fueling light until some boost gets built up.

Overall though, your right foot is the end all of smoke control. And you should expect a haze from 370's most of the time. And and increase in EGT as Dual EE said. You'll also have an increase in :D .

-R. J.
 
I played with the star wheel on my truck awhile back. All the way towards the engine from a dead stop, going WOT it would smoke all the way thru first, start to haze out mind way thru 2nd, haze in 3rd and cleared up after the TC was locked in OD. Compair that to in the middle where it quits smoking midway thur 2nd gear.



Sliding the AFC back cuts the fuel. Forward allows more.



Nathan
 
I thought that was right but I didn't want to be wrong. I need to do some adjusting on my truck, it doesn't smoke at all... ever.

-R. J.
 
There are allot of things to change that can make life a little better with a 12V, ever wonder how I drive around in 800 hp trim?



AFC placement..... more or less initial fuel prior to boost coming on.

Star Wheel..... does nothing more that preload the AFC spring making it take more or less boost to compress the spring.



In stock form the AFC is actually a piece of crap, the two internal washers are in the wrong spots, they need to be swapped..... hint,hint!



The arm travel is way too short but ok for a stocker.



The spring may or may not be ok for the application..... hence TST kit!



A 180 pump spring takes about 20 psi of collapse it, a 215 spring takes about 35 psi. Depending on when and how much fuel you need will depend on what spring to use and how much tension (star wheel) it needs.



I use shop air to simulate boost and set it at XX psi depending on the application and install the AFC with the air applied. Like my truck, at 40 psi of boost I want full fuel, so I use a 215 spring and set the star wheel tension if needed and turn the regulator (hand held) to 40 psi and install the AFC with that much air on and just slide it forward till the arm bottoms out in the plate and tighten it down. So with that setting I know at 40 psi (valet switch off) the arm is all the way in the plate and out of the way and the pump is set (so to speak) and now fueling is decided by the Governor.



Jim
 
I dont have a 215, But FWIW with my current setup I have no smoke problem at all if I go easy on the pedal on take-off's. Anything more then 1/2 throttle when first taking off, will start some coal.
 
i built a cable that hooks to the afc arm and an adjuster that limits the travel of the afc. So its like have an adjustable plate. fuel when you need and lower fuel when you don't.
 
To adjust the AFC (not the starwheel) do you go from the back by removing the 4 screws holding it on. Should these adjustments be made with the housing on a bench or can they be made with it still bolted to the pump?



Thanks,

Doug
 
Katmandu said:
I'm getting a set of 370s and a 3k GSK here shortly. (See Sig for mods).



I want to keep the smoke DOWN as much as possible. Although, letting the "Coal Roll" on occasion would be cool!



How does one set the Pump and related parts to keep a lid on the smoke from the 370s ??



w/o taking anything away from prev posts, I'd say:

1. Easy on the go pedal. It's what I do. Roll on instead of mash it.

2. Bigger fast spooling hybrid turbo. With your pump & #11, adding 370's ... you're on your way to a #10 or bigger anyway. :)

3. Hobbs Sw the wastegate on the new turbo. Ck with the supplier, but if it's opening early, like around the 20psi's, keeping it closed until the 38 to 40psi adds to the air. Sure decreased my smoke. :cool:
 
Jim Fulmer said:
In stock form the AFC is actually a piece of crap, the two internal washers are in the wrong spots, they need to be swapped..... hint,hint!
?? Where are they located ?? What does this accomplish ??

... . turn the regulator (hand held) to 40 psi
Very Interesting... . Homemade unit ?? Got pics ??
 
Forrest said:
2. Bigger fast spooling hybrid turbo.
Is swapping the exhaust housing to a 16cm unit on a HX35 considered a "Hybrid" ???

3. Hobbs Sw the wastegate on the new turbo. Ck with the supplier, but if it's opening early, like around the 20psi's, keeping it closed until the 38 to 40psi adds to the air. Sure decreased my smoke. :cool:

I "believe" the PO of my truck had the Wastegate blocked off. I'll have to double check once I get my truck back from the shop (Looooooooong Story... . )

If so, how would that effect my situation when I add 370s ??
 
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your gonna want a waist gate on the stock turbo with those injectors.

jim, more info on the afc mods please. thanks
 
Katmandu said:
?? Where are they located ?? What does this accomplish ??



Very Interesting... . Homemade unit ?? Got pics ??



The washers are inside the AFC, take it off the pump and play with it on the bench. You'll have to tear into the back were it bolts together (4 screws) takes me about 20 minutes to do this now.



Yes the regulator is nothing more than a hand held with a gauge and I use plastic tube with push-on connectors. You can get these at an Air Shop that sells hoses, fittings ect. It costs about $30. 00 to build it.



There are a ton of little tricks for a 12V and I have tested most all of them. On the AFC spring deal, if I use a 20 lb spring it will almost blow the fire out because it too much fuel.



Jim
 
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