Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) How to determine previously added Bombs?

[Piston Slapper]

My daddy just recently purchased a 1995 4x4 Reg Cab Auto 4. 11 , that has had some work done to it already. It has stacks, suspect injectors, and a different fuel plate. We are trying to find out what plate is in it. Truck had an old TDR sticker on the tool box. Truck black smokes on start up, but none at idle. Does not smoke through the gears. Looks like a coal train once you hit overdrive though.



Wastegate is gone, completely pulled off and all hoses have been plugged. Silencer ring is gone. Airbox is gone. Long cone shaped K&N filter on it. Has 3 gauge A-pillar pod w/ Trans, Pyro and Boost gauge. Boost gauge only works when you floor it. It'll quickly climb to about 25 lbs then just fall off to Zero. Does not show boost at all going down the road. Only shows when you accelerate heavily. Can not find any leaks. Suspect bad boost gauge. Pyro or Trans gauge do no work either. All 3 gauges are pretty much junk, will probably get trashed as we cannot get them to work.



I pulled the AFC housing off yesterday. The star wheel is turned all the way forward and the fule plate is slid all the way forward. It has a part number stamped on it. Part # 42604 or 46204. I can remember which at the time. Does anybody know what plate this is?



I suspect injectors due to truck sounds like it has a cam in it. It has a miss/sputter between 1100-1200 rpm bad. Soon as you get past 1200 it goes pretty good. Hit overdrive and its gone. We call it the "Go Hole"!



Maybe timing advanced also?



Found 1/8th inch slack in throttle linkage that we eliminated. Linkage bottoms out on fuel pump throttle stop now, but truck still will only runs 85/2600rpm mph on the floor.



Trying to determine what all has been done to it, and what is to do. I don't think GSK has been done due to only runs 85 mph/2600rpm.



Any pointers or advice as to what to check or look for to see what has been done to it or to determine what it actually has in it?



Thinking it needs Valve Springs and a 3GSK and a turbo housing.



How do ya determine what size housing it has now? I think it is stock.



Muchas Gracias,

 

[bighammer]

If the wastegate is gone as you say, I might suspect it has a 16cm non gated housing. (popular upgrade) Not sure of your plate. Mine has a big #5 on it, but I remember where on the plate it is. I would also guess the transmission has had some upgrades too to hold the power put to it.



Any chance of finding the original owner and asking some questions?



Also, boost is often low or zero until there is a load on the engine. Your guage might be fine.



If you do the 3k GSK, you don't need the valve springs. If you go 4k or get an exhaust brake, then the springs are necessary.

 

[Piston Slapper]

Originally posted by bighammer



Also, boost is often low or zero until there is a load on the engine. Your guage might be fine.



If you do the 3k GSK, you don't need the valve springs. If you go 4k or get an exhaust brake, then the springs are necessary.

Boost only reads when you floor it, jumps to 24 lbs or so and just falls back off. Never reads boost going down the road, pulling hills or anything. Motor is loaded and it should be reading, but it doesn't. No big deal, Getting new gauges anyway.....



I notice your truck has 370 injectors. Does it not have lopy idle and miss at 1100/1200 rpm like mine does? Was told this is indication of 370 injectors without the valve springs. Also this is mentioned on TST's site:

Delivery Valves help to smooth out the engine when using products such as the 370 Marine Injectors



Talked to a guy at TST and he said with the symptoms I give of lopey idle and misses at 1100/1200 rpm is sign of the 370 injectors. He said he has seen this before, and it should need the valve springs.



Just trying to figure out what is in this thing. I am trying to track down the previous owner.



Thanks,

 

[WadePatton]

May be a cool find.



But I suspect the boost gauge is bad too. There should be a small amount of boost going down the road and certainly more than 25 with all that fuel and no wastegate.



New GAUGES are in order. Hope it's not fouled up too bad otherwise.

 

[bighammer]

Delivery valves might help that funny spot you have. My truck has a sort of similar thing. I've heard they increase the bottom end, smoke, and EGTs. DVs are different from the valve springs.



Delivery valves are sort of precision check valves on top of the injector pump. They keep the lines full between injections. The older pumps have small valves that don't flow as much fuel, so many upgrade to the 191s (the big ones Piers sells) for more flow.



The upgraded valve springs are for RPMs above 3400 (I think) to keep the valves from "floating". Also an exhaust brake is more effective with a plug in it to increase back pressure, but the heavier springs are required on the exhaust valves.

 

[Extreme1]

The fuel plate sounds like a stock one, was there a pair of rivets in the top attaching the 2 parts together? (TST plates that most places sell are 1 piece and say #5 or similar).



The exhaust housing is a 16cm, that is the most likely culprit that is preventing a boost reading when rolling down the road, you aren't running any. There isn't much unless you are pulling an aerodynamic drag or pulling a lot of weight up a hill. The 16 housing isn't gettting enough airflow (drive pressure) to push a lot of boost.



As for the roughness at 1,100 RPM, that's typical of nearly stock '94-'94 engines. 370 injectors would run bad in a '94-'95 truck that makes no boost at highway speed.



I'm guessing that the former owner may have only installed the housing and slid the plate and changed the air cleaner assembly, or removed the other goodies and sold them. Folks don't always do things that make a lot of sense for power gains.



It sounds like the EGT sender is disconnected or missing, I'd look into repairing what you have and using the money to make it really fast. Which brings me to my next point, how fast can you afford to go?



A careful investigation into what you have (a working EGT would help diagnose that) and where you want to be will help guide you without spending time and money on things you don't or won't need as things progress. See this post for ideas.



The 3,000 RPM kit and a good converter will make a stock truck (which you are already beyond) drive like something entirely different I'd start there and then look at 215 injectors and 181 delivery valves. Assuming that you get the guages working first.



181 valves work great with the 215 injectors and a GSK on '94-'95's and they are what everyone with a '96-'97 1/2 took out to install their 191's so they can be had used for cheap. They won't fix the roughness at 1,100 though.



You should also look at the timing. You might invest in a FSM (Factory Service Manual) as well. If you start doing these things yourself there is no substitute.



Sorry for the novel.

 

[Piston Slapper]

Fuel Plate

It is not a stock plate. It has a part # stamped on the top. From what I can tell by surfing the net it my be a Banks Plate. I saw one of their plates that has a 5 digit number stamped on top. I don't what kind it is, but it is not stock.



I just put a TST plate in a buddies 96. #6 plate. Pumped it up to 250/635. He's is auto, standard cab, 4x4 like my dads. Dad's will smoke it... . Literally ! That is why I think it has injectors too along with whatever kind of plate is in it.



We are putting 3GSK and Delivery Valves in next week.



Still would appreciate any help on identifing this plate. I'll try to get some pics. The part number is: 42604 or 46204, stamped on top of the plate.



Thanks a bunch,



DAD called, he said let's just kept throwing stuff at it till the Tranmission goes! I want to try one of them DTT's! I was all !

 

[Got Smoke?]

Re: Fuel Plate

Originally posted by Piston Slapper



DAD called, he said let's just kept throwing stuff at it till the Tranmission goes! I want to try one of them DTT's! I was all !

Dad must have DEEP pockets! :-laf :-laf :-laf



Are you sure that its not the factory plate in there?? Factory plates come with 5 #'s stamped in them.

 

[Piston Slapper]

He's got more than I got, I'll help him spend it!



I am saying it is not stock cause it has no rivets on top.



Looks like this, If you can make out the way the number are stamped... This is pic from Banks Git Kit.



Figured out it does have 16cm Non wastegated housing. Still up in the air about the injectors. Really is just too fast not to have them. Runs rough like it has injectors. Has classic symptoms of Big injectors w/out delivery valves. It'll smoke a 96 auto with a #6 plate (250/635). It'll set ya back in the sit when it hits overdrive and it'll smoke like a coal train!!



Delivery valves and 3GSK go in next week.

 

[Piston Slapper]

I located the previous owner of the truck. He is a current TDR member: CMNS PWR (Daniel Hall). Found it does have 370 injectors and the plate is from banks, a rebadged TST #8. Rack stop is gone. ATS Tripelock TC and the turbo housing is still a toss up between 14 cm internal wastegate or 16cm non wastegated. I think it might be the 14... who knows... Got alot of history about the truck.



Nice to meet the owner anyway... Thanks for all your guys help.

 

[rrausch]

With that ATS TripleLok, you've got a REAL FIND there! If you can, find out if it has the ATS Valve Body also.

 

[1dslram]

Get the 4,000 rpm kit and the valve springs and you won't regret it. If you get the 3,000 first you can upgrade to the 4,000 by buying the other spring but why not do it right the first time. With the 370 injectors and 191 DV's it will smoke at the low end also, you will need to spool the turbo before jumping on the throttle. Give it fuel slowly untill 3-5# of boost then hit the loud pedal. And hang on shift at about 3500-3700 rpm.

Bruce

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Piston Slapper

I located the previous owner of the truck. He is a current TDR member: CMNS PWR (Daniel Hall).

Explains the coal train smoke show! :-laf

 

[WadePatton]

Gap, isn't this the truck that you were talking about on dyno day? The one we said stay away from?



Have fun! Dad will have to come out and dyno it next time.

 

[Extreme1]

Good Find!

Nice find!



Start calling the power vendors and tell them what you have and what they suggest as a next step beyond the parts you are already planning. I'm thinking turbo, you're already going to have plenty of fuel and your trans should be good to go.