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How to Get Power Windows to Work In Acc.?

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Drl

Hey Brandon. . . , I was a BAAAAD boy! ! !

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Is there a Diagram or something on how to wire up the Power windows to work with the key on acc? I know that i read it on here but cannot locate it. I tried jumping across the blower fuse and the power window fuse but then the blower and the windows work all of the time. I tested the blower fuse and it was powered only when the key is on or in acc. Go figure.



Any help is apriciated.

TIA



Adam
 
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I put a relay into the window circuit that uses the left door dome light switch to trigger it. When the drivers door is open the power windows work without the ignition being on. Another member did the same thing but turn the dome light on via the light switch to trigger the relay.
 
My solution is simpler but the windows will work at all times. Behind the fuse block just cut the outgoing wire to the windows and splice it to the outgoing wire to the power seat. The outgoing wires can be identified as the ones with no 12v+ with the seat and window fuses (breakers) removed, key on.



Big Yellow, no dinger and always on power windows were the first mods to my trucks when they were only a week old. First things first!
 
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My solution is simpler but the windows will work at all times. Behind the fuse block just cut the outgoing wire to the windows and splice it to the outgoing wire to the power seat. The outgoing wires can be identified as the ones with no 12v+ with the seat and window fuses (breakers) removed, key on





illflem,



How did you accsess behind the fuse block? I notice yours is a '95, mine is a '01, are the fuse blocks located in the same place?

I can't even see the wires behind my block,and the plastic that covers it is part of the entire dash, Dohh!!



Later,Rob
 
Rob, the fuse panel is in the same spot but entirely different. I've never messed with a '01 and can't even begin to tell you how to do it from the back. You could do it from the fuse side by removing the window breaker and connecting the outgoing side to the out going side of the seat breaker. You will need to use a breaker with a wire coming out the top just like this picture. I'm not sure if someone took a breaker apart and soldered in the blue wire (not hard) or if you can buy one already made up. Might be a great accessory for some enterprising person to build.



#ad
 
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Yea, I saw that pic in the above post, I was just to lazy to go to the store and look fer one today, maybee I'll go tomorrow. That does look real simple to make though, I'll have to try to make it first. I guess I could allways use the paper clip idea,:-laf :-laf



Later, Rob
 
Another "cheap" way

Used a mini switch in the hand hold on the door to supply power from the door locks (power is always there). It feeds the controls on the drives side and uses a diode (diode is in the normal power line to the windows) so it doesnt "lite-up" all the other equipment (radio, etc). When the sw is on, the lites on the pwr window switches lit up and can be used any time. If locked out, have used the switch to power the window sw and then lower window (only once so far) - course the window was lowered a little and the coat hanger trick was easy (took a few tries).



Just another 0. 015 "cheap" opinion... ... .



SOTSU!!

\\BF//



PS: had to remove the door panel for other work (did not, to add the switch) and used some BODY-TITE Ford door panel retainers to reattach door (#45879). Only had 6 in stock but they holding the panel OK and have a little piece of foam to prevent rattling... . old style metal type clip used on the 50/60's door panels. Had to tighten the grip but they hold/release (like the plastic) but are reuaseable for under 2$ a set. Might be another way to get around DC and the stealers way..... 'specally if you remove the panels a lot. Left out the top row and figure the screws will hold it tight 'nuff. So far no problems with rattles. Will add more clips as they get a stock in or I find more (13 orig - figure 10 should be enuff).
 
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