How to identify 16cm Turbo Housing

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Installed my 16cm(I hope,it looks just like the old 18cm housing)turbo housing today, on TST's website it says should produce more boost, I can only see about 1/4 to 1/2 pound difference on my boost gauge,exhaust added about 2 lbs totaling 18 but only goes slighly past there with new housing, do I need more fuel B4 I will see boost gains????
Thanks in advance,HAPPY RAMMIN!!
Caleb Reese

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1993 LE W250 4x4 CC,Auto,3. 5's,Limited slip. Diamondplate,K&N,Egt,Boost,trans temp VDO Vision series, BD 3 1/2" Exhaust.
Preparing to B. O. M. B.

 

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The differences between the 16 and 18. 5 aren't all that much. However, even if you don't notice that much of an increase in overall boost (it's less than others have experienced), you should get boost much sooner and higher at lower speeds.

I would look for a leaking intercooler hose, as well. I would expect you to get 20 to 22 pounds of boost, not 18.

BTW, I would not turn up the fuel on the pump, I would change injectors (more money, I know!!!), which relieves the load on the injection pump and delivers MORE fuel at stock settings.

Just my $0. 01 worth... #ad



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ICQ 3807791 (BBSMan)Home Domain www.my2kcity.com (Under construction)
Email powerwagon@my2kcity.com
12 Valve Forum moderator and Procrastinator extraordinaire...
Tow-er '65 Power Wagon Crew Cab, Tow-ee '70 Boles Aero 28'

 

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Hello boatpuller:
A genuine Holset 16 housing has "HOLSET 16" cast into the backside radius (toward the downpipe).
Check your gasket surfaces, including the ring hoseclamps for any boost leakage.
Follow PowerWagon's correct tip on injectors before cranking up the pump.
Regards

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'92 CUMMINS/DODGE 5SPD, 4WD 16cm2 turbo, mod. /maxed pump and injectors, max. flow exhaust, K&N... .

www.turbodieselregister.com/memberimages/r0300343.jpg
www.turbodieselregister.com/memberimages/r0300341.jpg

 

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Hi, Boatpuller.

I have also been thinking of changing the turbo on my 92 to a 16sq. cm and was wondering did you make the change yourself. In looking at the service manual it would not appear to be that difficult.

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92LE,Cummins,tach,4x4,5spd,Borgeson steering shaft,

 

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Al: You will see more boost after the change to a 16 housing, as the stock '92 is a 21cm housing.
You should be able to do the swap easily in an afternoon, including drilling and installing a pyro gage probe if you don't have one in.
Get over to the TST site, turbos, and installation. Good info for your install.
Regards.

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'92 CUMMINS/DODGE 5SPD, 4WD 16cm2 turbo, mod. /maxed pump and injectors, max. flow exhaust, K&N... .

www.turbodieselregister.com/memberimages/r0300343.jpg
www.turbodieselregister.com/memberimages/r0300341.jpg

 

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That housing can be a real bugger to change, or it can go easy. The turbo guy where I work has ruined a lot of wrenches (specially bent, ground, etc) trying to get those rusted bolts free. Also, on well-used turbos, the heat shield inside can often stick quite badly.

I'm not saying you can't do it, just that you better give yourself some time, and a backup plan should things go badly. For instance, if you round off some retaining bolts, you're going to need a lot of extra time getting it apart.

BTW, we use something called PB (Power Blaster), which is an evil-smelling and almost slimey penetrating oil that comes in an aerosol can. It works REALLY well, though. Drive the truck in, soak it in wd-40. Remove pipe clamps. Soak some more in PB. Take off 2 mounting bolts. Soak some more in PB. Begin removing turbo housing retaining bolts (the bolts around the housing retaining plates) and keep soaking with PB. It will even help loosen the housing from the turbo's center section, since it's well-rusted together by now.

If you pry the housing off to the side (not in line with the turbo shaft), it can strike the vanes and bend them or the shaft. Either means much more $$$ and down time.

 

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Old School. I found the turbo information that you referred. On a quick reading it would appear to be very detailed.

Powerwagon. Thanks for the tip regarding the use of penetrating oil to help free up rusted and frozen nuts & bolts.

Question: Is it best to stay with the Holset turbo? or does it matter?

 

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Power Wagon + Old School,
Thanks for the info,my new housing doesn't say the size on the exterior like the old one did and the "HOLSET" on the back is smaller, are there counterfeit housings? I ordered it from Auto Wurks Diesel,they advertise in the TDR.
Am going to wait for injectors for more fuel, need to make some plugs for the ends of intercooler lines to pressurize and look for leaks.
Al,
Powerwagon is correct, it is a pain to get apart, all my studs came out of the manifold and one of them had no threads left, had to get new studs(they are metric) and retap holes in exhaust manifold, also took alot of tapping(actually hitting pretty hard) to get the old housing off, and my truck only has 36K miles. Would hate to try and take one off of a truck that had really been used. Good luck, hope yours comes off easier. I used KROIL as a penetrant.
HAPPY RAMMIN,
CAleb

 

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Boatpuller.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Thats why I would rather ask the question before I start rather than finding out when I'm halfway through the project. Sometimes the least expensive approach may end up being the most costly.

 

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My '93 2wd with standard 18. 5 cm housing and recently replaced 3. 5" exhaust will give 21 - 22 lb boost.
Cheers,
Ian.

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Ian.

'93 2wd ext. cab. Upgraded injectors, 3. 5" exhaust, K & N filter, Xmsn oil cooler and fan, 4 gauge mount, lowered and widened mirrors

 

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Ian,
#ad
Of course you're going to have more boost what with the exchange rate #ad

Seriosly what kind of upgraded injectors are you running? How much did they increase your boost?
HAPPY RAMMIN,
Caleb

 

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Caleb,
Sorry I don't know how much boost increase, gauge was fitted after the injectors. Boost appears to be 1 or 2 lb higher with the 3. 5" exhaust.

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Ian.

'93 2wd ext. cab. Upgraded injectors, 3. 5" exhaust, K & N filter, Xmsn oil cooler and fan, 4 gauge mount, lowered and widened mirrors

 

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Changing these turbo housings over to 16cm2 housings is tremendously easy. I have a 10 year old son that does a lot of my change overs in my shop! (under my supervision) We have never had a failure related to the housing change.

Concerning the penetrating oil: There is a product that is called PEN Penetrating Oil.
Made by State Chemical Manufacturing Co. 1 800 STA CHEM to order. It costs me $7 for a 19 3/4 OZ. (559 GMS) spray can. One can will do approximately 10 turbos. This
magic oil is amazing! It is pleasant smelling and works better than any pen oil I have ever used. We have rebuilt several hundred turbos in the last 23 years, this stuff works wonders without ruining bolts or center sections. The best advise I can give anyone is PATIENTS! With the PEN oil, I have learned to try to separate the housings from center section and if they do not come apart easily, spray just a tad more on the joint and find something else to do for an hour. Most times the center section will come right out with just slight persuasion from a light rubber hammer. My previous employer (a major fuel injection and turbo shop in the mid-west) turned me on to this stuff years ago and I use it on everything exhaust related. If we have a customer even thinking about the housing change I will spray the penetrating oil on the turbo while we are looking at it. Giving it
plenty of time to work in.

I agree with most comments from above concerning boost and pyro readings.

HINT: Mark the center section and old housing (with a punch) to keep the relationship of the oil inlet and outlet correct on the new housing.

Stabco

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'89, CC, SB, 5sp, 3. 54, 16cm2 housing, maxed fuel, KN, Banks exh w/muffler, Autometer liquid filled gauges, Factory tach option, 100% Dyna-Mat, Horton fan clutch, Firestone air bags, Chrysler V-twin air comp, 2. 5" lift, Rancho Shocks, Alcoa LTS, BFG 255/85/R16 MTs (33. 3")

[This message has been edited by Stab (edited 06-08-2000). ]