Do we have any guide lines that show us how to remove trans and install a clutch. I have a six speed and have to buy a clutch and install it. I found this on site with great details on how to do it but it is for a Ford. http://www.diesel-central.com/News/luk-clutch.htm
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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) How to install clutch
- Thread starter dpetre
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Yeah - a nice photo step-by-step would be nice - gotta either have mine done, or get prepared to do it myself...
Something about lying on my 67 yer old, twice operated on back, wrestling a 350 pound transmission sure doesn't appeal to me tho'...
Something about lying on my 67 yer old, twice operated on back, wrestling a 350 pound transmission sure doesn't appeal to me tho'...
Dunno where you plan on getting your clutch - the SBC stuff always looks good - but be aware that Carolina Clutch/LUK has their new "Cerametalic" setups that also look very good, and can be bought by TDR members for $550 + delivery charges - will likely go that way myself...
Give us a report when you get it finished, and let us know what you think of it - I'll probably order mine tomorrow - hard to beat that price...
Gary, I don't know how much of a convenience factor it would be, but supposably there is a great shop in Half Moon Bay that Nowell use to recommend. I think that they'll install your supplied clutch for $350 while you wait. I'm getting close to ordering a SB and will probably take that route.
I paid just a little over $350 to have my South Bend Con OFE installed. IMHO, it was worth every penny when you consider that price included machining the flywheel (a South Bend requirement) as well as my not having to manhandle the weight of the NV5600 without a proper transmission jack! YMMV. 
Rusty
Rusty
Gary, and whoever else is putting the new Luk clutch in. Let us know how you like them when you get them in. I bought a SB con ofe and love it, but if I would have known more about the new Luk clutch and could have gotten it for 550, I would have probably went that route. I did get a good deal on my ofe though. I bought it from AutoWurks diesel in NJ for 790 dollars to my door. At the time, I thought the Luk pro gold was their best clutch, and it probably was since I don't think that the cerametalic was out yet.
Let us know how these clutchs work out.
depetre, we found out that it is easier to get another jack (floor jack) and leave the transfer case intact with the transmission.
Let us know how these clutchs work out.
depetre, we found out that it is easier to get another jack (floor jack) and leave the transfer case intact with the transmission.
I just ordered the LUK Cermetalic setup moments ago - and you can bet I'll be posting results of the install - but that may be a month or more away.
I have the fullest confidence in the South Bend products and customer service - but hearing that even they use the LUK hardware in their clutches, plus the nearly 50% cost savings with the LUK, just couldn't be ignored!
NOW, I just hafta wait and see if my "thrift" comes back to haunt me...
I have the fullest confidence in the South Bend products and customer service - but hearing that even they use the LUK hardware in their clutches, plus the nearly 50% cost savings with the LUK, just couldn't be ignored!
NOW, I just hafta wait and see if my "thrift" comes back to haunt me...
Yeah, the costomer service from SB is awesome, and that is a big reason too, why I went that route, but I'm with you Gary. I think for 550, I would have done the same.
It is Monday and the shop just came and picked up my truck. The clutch is going in on Thursday. I will post a reply after I do a test run to my boat and back. . 700 miles round trip. This last weekend I rented a new Ford F350 that had 44 miles on it. Towing 13500 pounds of boat and trailer I average 8 miles per gallon. Coming back I got 17 mpg. I really liked the way the engine and trans worked. It might be worth renting the ford twice a year and bet it up pulling the boat. It cost me $391 for four days.
TOOLS:
· transmission jack
· 2 or 3 ratchet straps
· porta power (this will make removing the cross member MUCH eaiser) A bottle jack and a piece of 4x4 will work in a pinch. Drill a hole in the end of the 4x4 to allow the bottle jack shaft to go in the 4x4 a couple of inches
· Selection of wrenches, sockets, drifts/punches, and maybe a prybar or two.
· various other garage implements.
1. Jack the truck up front and rear so the tires are at least 6” off the ground. You can be lower, but it is so much easier to deal with the flywheel and clutch pak if you can be actually sitting under the truck.
2. Remove Front and rear drive shafts. You will have to remove the carrier bearing assembly for the rear as well. Use a rubber glove to put over the end of the transfer case to keep the oil from dripping all over.
3. Remove the skid plate.
4. Disconnect the various wires and hoses from the transmission and transfer case.
5. Disconnect the 4wd linkage from the transfer case
6. remove the vacuum lines (if you have the CAD) from the cross member and the frame.
7. Unbolt and remove the clutch slave cylinder and secure it out of the way.
8. Remove ALL BUT TWO of the transmission mounting bolts – one on each side.
9. Remove the two bolts from the exhaust mount on the rear of the transmission.
10. Disassemble the shift tower and remove the four bolts holding the stick to the transmission. Pull up on the stick assembly and set to the side.
11. Set the transmission jack under the transmission in the rear half of the transmission. Use a ratchet strap to help secure the transmission to the jack. Take care no to have the straps where they will get cut when the transmission comes down, and that the transmission will not roll over on the jack. Put just a little upward pressure on the transmission.
12. Remove the 8 nuts & bolts holding the cross member, and the 2 holding the transfer case mount
13. Set the porta power between the frame rails behind the cross member and slowly start to spread the frame. When the cross member is loose, remove the transfer case mount.
14. Continue to spread the frame until you can wiggle, and twist the cross member out DO NOT OVER SPREAD THE FRAME! Only spread it enough where you can slide the cross member slightly forward to get over the ridge to get it out. You may have to set the porta power behind the transfer case so you can slide the cross member towards the rear.
15. Once the cross member is removed verify that there is nothing still attached to the transmission (wires/vacuum lines, brackets attached to the truck somehow…) and remove the porta power
16. lower the transmission about 1 to 1. 5 inches.
17. Set another jack under the oil pan. With a piece of wood to distribute the weight, slowly lift the front of the engine so you have a little angle pointing down towards the rear of the truck. You may have to lower the transmission another inch.
18. Remove the last two bolts and split the transmission from the engine.
19. Pull the transmission straight back from the engine until the input shaft is clear of the clutch pak. Keep an eye on the shift tower so that it clears the access hole to the cab. You may have to lower the transmission some more, or lift the front of the engine.
20. Once the transmission is clear of the clutch, continue to slowly lower and push the transmission back. You may have to move slightly to the drivers side to clear the exhaust mount bracket.
21. Once the transmission is clear of obstruction, lower it all the way and slide back so that you can get to the clutch pak with ease.
22. Remove the uppermost pressure plate bolt and rethread by hand about ½ way in.
23. Using the clutch alignment tool from your new clutch, insert it into the friction plate and into the flywheel bearing
24. Remove the rest of the plate bolts in a star or criss cross pattern.
25. Keeping a good grip on the pressure plate, remove the last bolt from the pressure plate and remove the clutch pak from the flywheel
26. Remove and rethread the uppermost bolt on the flywheel
27. Remove the remaining bolts on the flywheel.
28. Using a dead blow or rubber mallet, smack the crap out of the flywheel until it breaks loose from the engine.
29. Keeping a firm grip on the flywheel, it weighs like 75#, remove the last bolt and remove the flywheel. OK it only weighs maybe 40, but 75 made you hold on to it a little better.
30. Have the flywheel ground by a shop that uses a grinder NOT A LATHE to resurface the flywheel.
31. Using a flashlight, look inside the bell housing of the transmission and on the left side (while you are looking at it) there is a keeper spring that is holding the clutch lever to the pivot point. You need to see how it os on there so you can put it back on the same way. Remove the clutch lever by pulling straight back, the retaining spring will come with it. Remove the throw out bearing and install the new one.
32. Reinstall the clutch lever in the transmission.
33. Once you have your flywheel back, thoroughly clean the surface with brake cleaner, including all the holes in the outer edge. When it is clean DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS.
34. Remove the old pilot bearing and Lightly grease the new pilot bearing and insert it in the flywheel with the proper tools (a socket with the same diameter as the driver and a hammer works in a pinch). Clean any new grease marks on the flywheel
35. Hold the flywheel up to the engine and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place, then thread the rest of the bolts. Tighten them to the proper torque (?) in a star or criss cross pattern.
36. Verify that you have the correct friction plate by fitting it on the input shaft of the transmission. DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS!
37. Using the clutch alignment tool, insert it in the friction plate with the appropriate markings on the friction plate facing out and then insert the assembly into the pilot bearing on the flywheel.
38. Hold the pressure plate up to the flywheel, and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place. Thread the rest of the mounting bolts into the pressure plate.
39. In a criss cross or star pattern tighten the mounting bolts one turn at a time BY HAND. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH!
40. Torque the bolts to the appropriate number (?)
41. Roll the transmission into position and begin jacking it up. You will have to move forward and up in small increments to clear the clutch assembly and the shift tower in the cab. Watch for anything the transmission may catch on (4wd linkage, clutch slave cylinder, wires, hoses…)
42. Once you have the transmission lined up and partially inserted into the clutch assembly, use another ratchet strap running from frame rail to frame rail near the transfer case to help hold that end up. This will allow you to make the minor adjustments to the angle while inserting.
43. Continue to move the transmission into the clutch, being careful not to fore it. Using a drift in the dowel pin holes will help with the alignment. Use of a geared socket to turn the flywheel from the access port on the passenger side of the engine (opposite of the starter) may make aligning the splines easier.
44. Once the transmission is up against the engine, insert the mounting bolts and tighten them up.
45. Release the jack under the oil pan slowly while lifting the transmission up at the same speed.
46. Re-install everything removed in reverse order (16, 15, …1)
· transmission jack
· 2 or 3 ratchet straps
· porta power (this will make removing the cross member MUCH eaiser) A bottle jack and a piece of 4x4 will work in a pinch. Drill a hole in the end of the 4x4 to allow the bottle jack shaft to go in the 4x4 a couple of inches
· Selection of wrenches, sockets, drifts/punches, and maybe a prybar or two.
· various other garage implements.
1. Jack the truck up front and rear so the tires are at least 6” off the ground. You can be lower, but it is so much easier to deal with the flywheel and clutch pak if you can be actually sitting under the truck.
2. Remove Front and rear drive shafts. You will have to remove the carrier bearing assembly for the rear as well. Use a rubber glove to put over the end of the transfer case to keep the oil from dripping all over.
3. Remove the skid plate.
4. Disconnect the various wires and hoses from the transmission and transfer case.
5. Disconnect the 4wd linkage from the transfer case
6. remove the vacuum lines (if you have the CAD) from the cross member and the frame.
7. Unbolt and remove the clutch slave cylinder and secure it out of the way.
8. Remove ALL BUT TWO of the transmission mounting bolts – one on each side.
9. Remove the two bolts from the exhaust mount on the rear of the transmission.
10. Disassemble the shift tower and remove the four bolts holding the stick to the transmission. Pull up on the stick assembly and set to the side.
11. Set the transmission jack under the transmission in the rear half of the transmission. Use a ratchet strap to help secure the transmission to the jack. Take care no to have the straps where they will get cut when the transmission comes down, and that the transmission will not roll over on the jack. Put just a little upward pressure on the transmission.
12. Remove the 8 nuts & bolts holding the cross member, and the 2 holding the transfer case mount
13. Set the porta power between the frame rails behind the cross member and slowly start to spread the frame. When the cross member is loose, remove the transfer case mount.
14. Continue to spread the frame until you can wiggle, and twist the cross member out DO NOT OVER SPREAD THE FRAME! Only spread it enough where you can slide the cross member slightly forward to get over the ridge to get it out. You may have to set the porta power behind the transfer case so you can slide the cross member towards the rear.
15. Once the cross member is removed verify that there is nothing still attached to the transmission (wires/vacuum lines, brackets attached to the truck somehow…) and remove the porta power
16. lower the transmission about 1 to 1. 5 inches.
17. Set another jack under the oil pan. With a piece of wood to distribute the weight, slowly lift the front of the engine so you have a little angle pointing down towards the rear of the truck. You may have to lower the transmission another inch.
18. Remove the last two bolts and split the transmission from the engine.
19. Pull the transmission straight back from the engine until the input shaft is clear of the clutch pak. Keep an eye on the shift tower so that it clears the access hole to the cab. You may have to lower the transmission some more, or lift the front of the engine.
20. Once the transmission is clear of the clutch, continue to slowly lower and push the transmission back. You may have to move slightly to the drivers side to clear the exhaust mount bracket.
21. Once the transmission is clear of obstruction, lower it all the way and slide back so that you can get to the clutch pak with ease.
22. Remove the uppermost pressure plate bolt and rethread by hand about ½ way in.
23. Using the clutch alignment tool from your new clutch, insert it into the friction plate and into the flywheel bearing
24. Remove the rest of the plate bolts in a star or criss cross pattern.
25. Keeping a good grip on the pressure plate, remove the last bolt from the pressure plate and remove the clutch pak from the flywheel
26. Remove and rethread the uppermost bolt on the flywheel
27. Remove the remaining bolts on the flywheel.
28. Using a dead blow or rubber mallet, smack the crap out of the flywheel until it breaks loose from the engine.
29. Keeping a firm grip on the flywheel, it weighs like 75#, remove the last bolt and remove the flywheel. OK it only weighs maybe 40, but 75 made you hold on to it a little better.
30. Have the flywheel ground by a shop that uses a grinder NOT A LATHE to resurface the flywheel.
31. Using a flashlight, look inside the bell housing of the transmission and on the left side (while you are looking at it) there is a keeper spring that is holding the clutch lever to the pivot point. You need to see how it os on there so you can put it back on the same way. Remove the clutch lever by pulling straight back, the retaining spring will come with it. Remove the throw out bearing and install the new one.
32. Reinstall the clutch lever in the transmission.
33. Once you have your flywheel back, thoroughly clean the surface with brake cleaner, including all the holes in the outer edge. When it is clean DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS.
34. Remove the old pilot bearing and Lightly grease the new pilot bearing and insert it in the flywheel with the proper tools (a socket with the same diameter as the driver and a hammer works in a pinch). Clean any new grease marks on the flywheel
35. Hold the flywheel up to the engine and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place, then thread the rest of the bolts. Tighten them to the proper torque (?) in a star or criss cross pattern.
36. Verify that you have the correct friction plate by fitting it on the input shaft of the transmission. DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS!
37. Using the clutch alignment tool, insert it in the friction plate with the appropriate markings on the friction plate facing out and then insert the assembly into the pilot bearing on the flywheel.
38. Hold the pressure plate up to the flywheel, and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place. Thread the rest of the mounting bolts into the pressure plate.
39. In a criss cross or star pattern tighten the mounting bolts one turn at a time BY HAND. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH!
40. Torque the bolts to the appropriate number (?)
41. Roll the transmission into position and begin jacking it up. You will have to move forward and up in small increments to clear the clutch assembly and the shift tower in the cab. Watch for anything the transmission may catch on (4wd linkage, clutch slave cylinder, wires, hoses…)
42. Once you have the transmission lined up and partially inserted into the clutch assembly, use another ratchet strap running from frame rail to frame rail near the transfer case to help hold that end up. This will allow you to make the minor adjustments to the angle while inserting.
43. Continue to move the transmission into the clutch, being careful not to fore it. Using a drift in the dowel pin holes will help with the alignment. Use of a geared socket to turn the flywheel from the access port on the passenger side of the engine (opposite of the starter) may make aligning the splines easier.
44. Once the transmission is up against the engine, insert the mounting bolts and tighten them up.
45. Release the jack under the oil pan slowly while lifting the transmission up at the same speed.
46. Re-install everything removed in reverse order (16, 15, …1)
AH! Great post Sticks - couple of questions:
1. Will the flywheel only go on one way - or is it's position critical for balancing of the engine?
2. Does the gearshift need to be in any particular gear, or neutral for removal?
3. Anyone have the torque specs for the pressure plate bolts?
4. Is a puller required for the pilot shaft bearing?
5. Is any particular grease better than others to lube the pilot shaft bearing - don't wanna go thru all that very soon over wrong lube!
Thanks again for GREAT info!
1. Will the flywheel only go on one way - or is it's position critical for balancing of the engine?
2. Does the gearshift need to be in any particular gear, or neutral for removal?
3. Anyone have the torque specs for the pressure plate bolts?
4. Is a puller required for the pilot shaft bearing?
5. Is any particular grease better than others to lube the pilot shaft bearing - don't wanna go thru all that very soon over wrong lube!
Thanks again for GREAT info!
Originally posted by Gary - KJ6Q
AH! Great post Sticks - couple of questions:
1. Will the flywheel only go on one way - or is it's position critical for balancing of the engine?
2. Does the gearshift need to be in any particular gear, or neutral for removal?
3. Anyone have the torque specs for the pressure plate bolts?
4. Is a puller required for the pilot shaft bearing?
5. Is any particular grease better than others to lube the pilot shaft bearing - don't wanna go thru all that very soon over wrong lube!
Thanks again for GREAT info!
Gary
1. Yes - It's kind of ID10T proof.
2. No - It does not matter, same with the 4wd (if applicable)
3. Yes - Someone will post them. I don't remember. I think it is like 28ft#. The flywheel is 90 - 100.
4. The place that you take it to have it ground will usually pull it. If not, either a bearing puller, or a socket that is just a little bit smaller than the bearing will do in a pinch.
5. Not that I know of. Regular ol' high temp axle grease should do.
First time with two people should take about 6 hours. Second time cut's it down to 4. Our trucks are by far one of the easiest things that I have ever worked on. So simple it's disgusting, and DC was nice enough to leave us plenty of room and did not clog up every little nook and cranny with crap.
If I missed (got wrong) any answers, P L E A S E let me know.
Sticks
"1. Yes - It's kind of ID10T proof. "
AHHHhh - always a pleasure to work on stuff designed especially for ME!
AHHHhh - always a pleasure to work on stuff designed especially for ME!
Thanks for the great post. Some of the other members will benifit. I got to the point where I was able to pull the transfer case off and decided against the whole thing. I was having problems with the transmission jack and lifted the transfere case off by hand. I looked at the transmission and decided to put the transfere case back on and send it to a shop. I live 40 miles out side of town and it just is not worth running back and forth for all the things I break. It still sticks in the back off my mind about a good friend on mine who was killed when his car fell of the jack while he was working on it. He did not use jack stands and was in a hurry to celebrate his wifes birthday. She found him dead. Any way thanks sticks for the good post.
Sticks - one more followup question - I don't quite understand this part:
""17. Set another jack under the oil pan. With a piece of wood to distribute the weight, slowly lift the front of the engine so you have a little angle pointing down towards the rear of the truck. You may have to lower the transmission another inch. "
How do I "lift" the front of the engine - do the motor mounts need to be loosened to allow it to be tilted, or what? I didn't see any references to loosening the motor to allow it to be "raised" at the front...
Thanks.
""17. Set another jack under the oil pan. With a piece of wood to distribute the weight, slowly lift the front of the engine so you have a little angle pointing down towards the rear of the truck. You may have to lower the transmission another inch. "
How do I "lift" the front of the engine - do the motor mounts need to be loosened to allow it to be tilted, or what? I didn't see any references to loosening the motor to allow it to be "raised" at the front...
Thanks.
The only things holding the engine/trans in place are the cross member and the two engine mounts on the back half of the block. There's plenty of give in the rubber motor mounts to pitch the engine up/drop the tail of the transmission down a few inches without loosening anything (once the x-member is removed). And once the transmission is removed, the engine will tip forward if there's nothing there to support it.
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
