Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) How to install clutch

[Sticks]

Originally posted by PC12Driver

The only things holding the engine/trans in place are the cross member and the two engine mounts on the back half of the block. There's plenty of give in the rubber motor mounts to pitch the engine up/drop the tail of the transmission down a few inches without loosening anything (once the x-member is removed). And once the transmission is removed, the engine will tip forward if there's nothing there to support it.

Gary -Yeah, what he said. Thanks PC12Driver

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Thanks guys - still up in te air as to whether to tackle the job myself or not - old age and a bad back play a major part in the final decision - as does the $375 the local shops want to do the job for me...

 

[BennyHL]

Originally posted by sticks

30. Have the flywheel ground by a shop that uses a grinder NOT A LATHE to resurface the flywheel.

you have my curiosity peaked. explanation?

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I suspect the grinding process leaves a smoother, less abrasive finish for less break-in wear on the clutch material, as well as not "tearing" the metal and inflicting micro points of fracture to the metal surface... Much like the difference between die-threading/cutting bolts, and rolling in the threads - the die threading process weakens the metal - rolling does not.

 

[PC12Driver]

I turned mine on a lathe, and so far so good. Figured it was okay since it looked like it was originally turned down on a lathe from the factory...

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I wonder how many automotive machine shops actually even HAVE the equipment to grind a flywheel - I sorta suspect the lathe method is far more commonly used.

 

[Sticks]

Ground is the way to go.



In fact, I believe that South Bend Clutch specifically states to have the flywheel ground, not turned. Maybe peter will chime in here sometime... if he is still around.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Sometimes us guys out in the "sticks" (pun) hafta go with what we got...

 

[jmeehan]

When I ordered my clutch from Peter I had him send a resurfaced fly wheel too, since I didn't know if I could find a local shop that could do it to his specs, and I didn't want to wait.

Before I pull the shifter on any transmission I put the transmission in gear so I can rotate the output shaft to align the input shaft to the clutch splines.

The 5600 was the heaviest gear box I've ever dropped out of a truck, and it was the easiest to stab back in. I was laying on my back, in a cold garage last Oct. Yes I was praying, and using a real transmission jack.

One other thing, when the transmission starts going back in, go slow. Look at the mating surfaces of the bellhousing and engine, and keep them parallel, side to side and up and down. I hope that makes sense.

When the transmission won't slide in any more, turn the output shaft while GENTLY pushing the transmission in. When it slides in, you'll know it. Then get back to watching the mating surfaces of the bellhousing and engine, and keep them parallel, side to side and up and down. Don't forget you can jack the engine up and down too, to change the angles. Just go slow, it'll go in.

 

[dpetre]

I have the new Luk clutch in and it works just fine. The old clutch from Dodge had LUK written on it.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"I have the new Luk clutch in and it works just fine. The old clutch from Dodge had LUK written on it. "



Same here - keeping my fingers crossed... .