How to Keep the Cummins Healthy in Winter?

[Tulsa618]

Winter’s not that far off, and I want to make sure The Beast is treated right. Somehow, even in Kansas City, I ended up with my office being just over four miles from the house, so there’s not much opportunity to get it up to operating temperature headin’ to the house after a long day sitting out in an open parking lot. (At least I keep it plugged in at night and get to start with warm block, if not warm oil. )



How could I best protect my Cummins? Even if I change the oil and filter every 1,500 miles (I use Rotella now), I feel like it really hates moving when it’s 0-20 degrees. I always allow for the full pre-heat cycle before I start out, holding at about 1,100-1,150 RPM, and I have the transmission in neutral while it cycles, so it can circulate (I use Amsoil ATF). But even driving off gently, I find myself looking in the mirror for engine parts that might have fallen off – it just doesn’t sound, well, “healthy” when it runs that cold…



October will make two years I’ve had this Ram, so I’ll do the obvious maintenance work like coolant flush and replacement, but else might I do for this low-mile daily driver? Would a synthetic oil make such a difference that it would be worth the cost? Right now I pay $9. 27 – total, including tax - where I bought my Ram for a full lube/filter/fluids service (and of course I stand in the bay and watch every move), so it’s cost effective to do frequent changes. What else should I be doing throughout the cold season? The battle I have to fight is frequent short trips with a cold engine. 'Doesn't get much worse, huh?



My apologies if this has been covered before – it’s been difficult to find the time to keep up with the board with my work schedule. Thanks!

 

[JMoglia]

Say Tulsa, maybe you ought to consider a grill cover,you know like the truckers use ? it won't hurt anything to try an old tarp first and watch gauge run it around for awhile idle for awhile check out at all driveing conditions but do watch the temp gauges. good luck

 

[KatDiesel]

Can't answer the oil question because I just now turned 20k miles and getting ready to go synthetic.



Have you looked into a Espar or Websto heater? I really would like one of those, since I have no access to plug in at work. I saw Cummins had the Espar for $900 here in Omaha a month or so ago. Not only will you have a wamr engine but a warm cab and defrosted windows! Sounds kinda neat when its running too! I'm surprise I haven't bought one yet, thanks for reminding me winter is coming

 

[Dieselnerd]

Being from Minnesota, I understand the long warmup routine. With as much metal that needs to be heated there is no way you can warm up in 4 miles. In cold weather mine seems to take about 10 miles to stop all the extra "clatter" and settle down. I think the best thing you could do is leave earlier and drive a round about route or else get an old gasser for your winter driver like a lot of people around here do. It can't be good for the beast to never warm up properly. Just my opinion... .

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I went to synthetics, and noticed the engine sounded healthier on those frigid startups. I also always run with cardboard covering the radiator and fan removed. I always do oil analysis and find wear metals are not much higher than summertime readings. I also drive 3. 5 miles to work, no place to plug in at work. But although I'm in one of the northern tier states, it does not get that cold here (hasn't been below zero for about 4-5 years). We do get long stretches where we get an inversion and the temps hang around freezing.



I do make lots of short trips in winter. At least once a week I head out on the freeway and go on a 20-30 mile ride and drive it hard. That will help heat it up good and keep deposits down.



In the morning or after work I only let the engine idle a minute before taking off, then go nice and easy for a couple miles then start working it more as it starts to warm. Don't give it the pedal for at least 5-10 seconds after firing so the oil can begin to circulate.



I am going to install an injection pump cutout switch so on cold startups I can push the button and let the motor crank over several revolutions before it fires to get the oil going sooner. That way it won't light off with intense combustion and no initial oil pressure. Cummins commented in an email to someone this would be a good idea, also when you change your oil or haven't started your engine for a long period of time, to crank it over several revs before lighting 'er off.



Vaughn

 

[JJW_ND]

From my experience, I would run a 5W full synthetic (Amsoil or Mobil). Add winter front and even the engine fan (can only use defrost when moving).



Looking at oil samples the last five winters, thinner oil was the best thing I did. I never idle (does not help anyway), but I plug in every chance I can. Truck is twice as loud but nothing ever breaks. I run that 5W oil for 25K BTW with just statapore filter changes every 6K.



I believe the average daily temp for last December was -5. Drove truck everyday.



The only other thing I do is run only Premium #2 with Stanadyne. No #1 or Blend. Starts better and helps lower the noise a little. Never gelled in 197K.



Heats fine, runs fine, just makes lots of noise and gauges run very cool.



jjw

ND

 

[Chad Sheets]

Good fuel, winter thermostat, good coolant. Cardboard or something over the radiator, leave the drivers side open a little for the intake air cooler. Have heard of some people removing the fan all winter and covering the radiator. Good cheap fixes.



Want to spend $$$ go with a horton fan set up, Espar heater etc. They wont fail you, and are pretty maintenance free for the most part.

 

[Tulsa618]

Thanks, everybody, for your advice. As much as I'd love go with both the Horton and the Espar (but not in that order), I don't carry a nice, fat contractor's wallet like I used to. (Not that it was ever that fat anyway... ) But I will certainly entertain the synthetic oil route, and will definitely find a radiator cover for the coldest days. I believe I'd need a temporary cover because the weather here - like just about any place else - is unpredictable. That 0 degree morning could be followed by a 50 degree day.



Ya' know, people often ask me what I need this vehicle for. I tell them that if I drove what I NEEDED, I'd be in a Honda Civic. (My big load is two bicycles. ) Some folks just can't understand the draw of the beautiful sound and feel of a Cummins powered machine. Nor can they understand why anyone would want to take the time and effort to do the work on it like I do. It just escapes them that activities like replacing differential fluid (and putting on a Mag-Hytec cover in the process) has never felt like WORK to me.

 

[BRobertson]

winter use

I use the grill covers, Horton fan and Ebrake and I think all of these work together to insure proper warmup. This summer I added an oil pan heater similar to what we use on our aircraft. It should help a lot, I know it does on recip aircraft engines at -40 in Fairbanks (another story)!!!

 

[Dieselnerd]

Tulsa, ALL of us on this site understand the NEED to drive a big Cummins Diesel truck!

 

[Amianthus]

Don't worry too much.

There are a few things I do. Keep it plugged in. That helps alot.

I also run a cold front. That seems to help a little. But don't expect too much.

But most of all, I use the exhaust brake. That device warms the truck up like no other device I have.

As far as driving it. When I have a fire-call, the truck is ready to go. And I pound on it to get to the station (barring icy roads). I am not nice to it. The truck has been just fine. I got the information from Cummins (aka powermaster) that the engine is way tough enough to take that kind of abuse. The turbocharger is the component to watch.

This is just stuff to think about.