How to learn to do brakes myself?

[BC]

When it comes to brakes I'm a moron. My wife will tell you it's not just with brakes.



I want to learn to replace the front pads, flush the brake fluid, and adjust the rears. After spending $700 last year with the Dodge dealer when I took my 3500 to just have the brakes checked, I never want to rely on someone else again.



Is there an old article in the TDR, or a book, or better yet a video on redoing the brakes on a '98 4x4 12 valve 3500?



Thanks for any info from the brain trust.



Bill Cook

 

[LandShark]

Get the service manual for your truck. Front pads are super easy. Rears are a bit more complicated (more parts to deal with) but rather easy.



If you can, get someone to help you the first time. You'll be amazed at how easy it is. In any case you'll need help to bleed the brakes.

 

[Timinator]

I never did get good at bleeding brakes, so here is what I do. I do all the hardware myself. Get the service manual. Once done, I take it to a shop for a professional bleed and flush. That's usually about $35 and less than an hour.

 

[Joe G.]

Service Manual!!

The service manual is a must! Get the real deal from Dodge, not some aftermarket cheapie. There are a few special tools you can get at any parts store to make working on the rear drum brakes easier. The first few times you do the brakes, especially the rears, do one side at a time. Don't touch the other until the first side is done. That way if you get confused about where a part goes or how something fits together you can look at the other side. Doing brakes is a dirty job, but when you put them back together make sure the cylinders and calipers are sparkling clean. Another little tip that is not mentioned in the manual is to cover the surface of the new shoes with masking tape until you are ready to put the drums back on. That keeps your dirty fingers from messing up the friction surface.

 

[work2muchplay2little]

If you're like me - a very visual learner - you might videotape a front and rear replacement just for future reference. If a picture's worth a thousand words, then video must be worth millions!! Besides saving money, I find doing this kind of stuff gratifying and a heck of a lot more convenient than all the hoops you've gotta jump through to get it done by someone else, not to mention the worries of all the potential collateral damage from the dealer

 

[vc]

BC,

you might check and see if there is a local chapter of TDR in your area and get together with them for some help. Usually these groups get together every so often for a day workshop.



vc

 

[BigUgly]

SETDR

Bill, I'm with VC here. You should check out a local chapter, the SouthEastern TDR www.setdr.org , we're based out of Atlanta area, so you're pretty close. In fact, we have a get together we're starting to set up at a Diesel Performance shop in Southern Atlanta area, STP. So far, it looks like July 28th. Drop by and join the club, we might even get someone to help with the brakes during the wrenchathon.

Josiah

 

[chuck3]

Brakes

Joe G. is right on, do one side at a time, I still do it that way and I have done a few in my time, but dont do them often enough to remember everything, getting old you know.

 

[Posm]

I to am ready to chang my front brakes out and have a couple of questions. What is the size and type of keeper bolt on the front calipers( kind of like a hex head)? Do you use a C- clamp to compress your caliper pistons?

 

[Randy J]

It's a 3/8 allen head. I strong suggest you get a 3/8's drive attachment rather than use an allen wrench. Good luck

 

[Posm]

Randy

It is not an allen head. It is a male tapered stud that needs some type of socket head. If you look at it from the end it looks like a star. I have some 8-point sockets that look simular, but the sockets are not tapered.



Thanks Bryan

 

[Deezul1]

I have the Haynes cheapo manual and it is very good for $12. oo. I just did my rears yesterday and the manual (Haynes) had very good pictures and explanations. Its not the factory manual but definately well worth the money. To bleed brakes by yourself get pop bottle or something like it , get a piece of rubber hose that will fit snugly over the bleeder screw, then slide the hose over the bleeder screw after opening is about 1 1/2 turns put the other end in the bottle with 2" of brake fluid in it with the hose down in the fluid. Now pump the brakes slowly and no air can be drawn back in and keep watch on master cyl fluid level, usually 6-10 pumps will get most of the air out. If you have a helper, watch the bottom of the hose in the bottle and when no more bubbles are there you are done. Wrap a piece of wire around the bottle neck and hang the bottle under the truck and it cant tip over.

 

[John]

Re: Service Manual!!

Originally posted by Joe G.

Another little tip that is not mentioned in the manual is to cover the surface of the new shoes with masking tape until you are ready to put the drums back on. That keeps your dirty fingers from messing up the friction surface.

Great tip Joe! I've always tried to be as careful as possible not to touch the friction surface AND THEN clean them completely with CRC Brakleen just prior to completion (I ALWAYS have Brakleen around... I use it for MANY things other than brakes).

 

[Joe G.]

John,



That was one of Jim Anderson's tips in #30. When I read that I couldn't believe that I hadn't thought of that one on my own it's so obvious.

 

[Wayne M]

It is an absolute must when doing the rear brakes to pull the drums off both sides and then work on one wheel until finished with that wheel. You can always go look at the other wheel when you get confused about whether you are putting a spring in the right place or upside down, etc. Several people have already suggested that, but it is very important and figured it would not hurt to stress it one more time. I learned to change brake shoes on a '68 Ford Galaxy 500. That was my parents car when I turned 16 in '76. Dad always had me out there replacing the shoes - we even re-built the wheel cylinders back then! Seems like that car really went through a lot of brakes and tires once I got my license... ... must have been the age of the vehicle... . yeah, that's it!



One last thing... ... You have to have a brake tool. It is a goofy looking tool that looks like a pair of long skinny pliers. Each end is shaped differently and each has a use. Very handy and garuanteed to shave hours off the process and keep your stress level in check!

 

[Deezul1]

A high tech trick, take a pic with digital camera before removing any parts and then print it out.

 

[BillGotthelf]

POSM I have a coupla different year dodge trucks and they all take the size allen head 3/8 to loosen bolts holding slide bolts in. If you buy a 3/8 drive socket with a 3/8 allen head on it, it makes removal easier.

 

[radixr]

3/8 Allen-head bolts

The first time I removed my calipers, the heads of these bolts had rusted enough that it was difficult to get the allen wrench into the bolt socket. After I did get them out, I used my Dremel grinder to gently clean them up (just remove the rust), coated the socket with Neverseeze (grease would work too) and then pushed a rubber plug into the socket. Sorta like the rubber protector on the bleeder valve but a plug, not a cap. They are still there!

 

[BC]

Thanks, y'all. I've ordered new pads. Going with shoes I bought from Sam Peterson. When talking to him he knew his stuff... . wish he was closer to N. Georgia.



Great idea on joining local club. Will when I return. Have 9 days before I leave and am pressed to get everything ready to go.



Did order Dodge manual. It's in and I'll pick it up this morning.



Plan on taking my Dodge (when my pads arrive) to Jasper Dodge and have the rotors turned... anyone in the Southeast TDR know of a better place to go? Anyway, after they turn my rotors am going to a local brake guy and watch him do my brakes. Will replace pads, cln calipers, adjust rears, and flush brake fluid and replace with DOT 4 fluid.



Any other ideas are welcome.



Again, if anyone reading this is from the SE TDR and know of a better place to go to get brakes done, I'm all ears.



Thanks,



Bill Cook

 

[Joe G.]

Bill,



I strongly recommend NOT turning the rotors unless they REALLY need it! My '95 has 170K+ miles on it and I have never had the rotors turned. The runout tolerance is . 005". Mine only show . 002". It they are not warped and don't run out, it's a BAD idea to turn them. There is barely enuff metal to start with so removing some just makes the situation worse. Read some of the brake posts on these forums. It seems if you get them turned it's not too long until they need it again or have to be replaced. If my rotors ever need turning I'll replace them. BTW, I had 100K on my last set of pads when I replaced them.