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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission how to mount wheel studs

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission replacement steering box

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Was getting ready to install new hubs and brake rotors using new wheel studs (Hubs are National, studs from Advance Auto) and…we shattered a powerslot rotor on a 12T press. Just how much force should be needed to snug the stud into the hub and keep the rotor from floating? Last time I reused the OEM studs so I can't be sure if these new stud are even made correctly. I plan to return them and take the plunge and get studs from dealer. Any advice appreciated!
 
I just did this job last week on my '95. I used a 1" aluminum drift pin and a 3 pound sledge and tapped them in. Be sure the rotor/hub is well supported. I reused the old studs. After tapping them in, the hub/rotor joint was a bit loose so I put a 1" nut and washer over each stud and then torqued a lug nut down to about 150 pounds to pull them in tight. That did the trick. A little anti-sieze would make them slide in easier, but I didn't need it.
 
I usually pound them in with a big hammer and a drift punch made from an old kingpin. It defiantly shouldn't take 12 tons.
 
This is another reason to keep an old, worn out rotor. You can use it to support a new rotor either on a shop press or on the floor if you use a BFH. Just line up the holes and press or hammer away.
 
I use an air chisel with a blunt round bit to pop out the old ones and install the new ones from the back. Then I use the lug nuts to make sure they are snugged in all the way. Very easy.
 
as posted i just did both sides of mine i used a drift pin and a BFH and the rotor just floated a touch and i pulled them that last bit with the nuts
 
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