Archived How to remove ball joints

[DLausche]

Ball joints is the project for today. I've got it striped down to the knuckles with the tie rod ends off as well. Ready to remove the knuckles next. But, I'm having problems getting the ball joint studs to come loose from the axle yokes. Is there any good trick to getting them loose? Should I beat on the knuckle with mallet, or on the axle tube yokes?



Thanks for any help you can offer.



-Deon

 

[DLausche]

How much am I allowed to swear on this board? Is extra leeway re swearing afforded to those trying to do ball joints? OK, I'll refrain with the bad language for now... These ball joints will not come loose! Have all the nuts off, but the tapered joints are stuck way f'n tight.



Appreciate any tips you guys might have...



-Deon

 

[p-Bar]

Put the nut on flush with the end of the threads and beat it with a hammer it should just pop.

 

[DLausche]

Victory!

That did it. I really let loose on it. Beat on the lower stud with nut on and it did pop. This is without doubt the suckiest job I have ever had to do on this truck. Now we'll see if the OTC ball joint press I bought is strong enough to press the ball joints out of the knuckle...



-d

 

[Nate]

You are trying to get the ball joints out of the knuckle?



You need a ball joint press, or perhaps a shop press would work too if you can set it up right.



I bent my $400 Matco ball joint press doing the ball joints on my truck last year to give you an idea on how stuck they were.

 

[DLausche]

I was trying to just get the knuckles off the axle. Have them off now. now going to attempt to press out the ball joints from the knuckle. I bought a OTC press for this job but am not sure it is up to the task here. if not, the local machine shop will get the job of pressin em out and the new ones in.

 

[Joe Mc]

I did pass side ball joints last year using a little map gas tank and bench vise??? Was a real PIA as ball joints always are.

 

[Alphacowboy]

were you successful Deon?

 

[DLausche]

were you successful Deon?

Well, I got the knuckles off, but the machine shop is gonna have to press them out of the knuckles for me. The ball joint press I have is just not big enough. Track bar is the project for today since machine shops are closed for the holiday today.



-Deon

 

[Joe Mc]

machine shop is gonna have to press them out of the knuckles for me. The ball joint press I have is just not big enough.

Deon, On mine there was a snap ring which held the joint in the knuckle that had to be removed first. Then I was able to get out with a bit of heat, table vise and a few sockets to push joint through the knuckle. I'd think if you have a press you should be able to do it. Not sure, just going on what I was up against. Good Luck.

 

[Alphacowboy]

Track bar is the project for today since machine shops are closed for the holiday today.



-Deon

What ya doing for that?

 

[DLausche]

What ya doing for that?

Got a rebuild kit for my DT track bar. New heim joint and rubber bushing.

 

[DLausche]

Deon, On mine there was a snap ring which held the joint in the knuckle that had to be removed first. Then I was able to get out with a bit of heat, table vise and a few sockets to push joint through the knuckle. I'd think if you have a press you should be able to do it. Not sure, just going on what I was up against. Good Luck.

So it is OK to use a bit of heat on the knuckles? The repair manual states do not use any heat. It would make sense to use a little bit of heat to get the steel to expand a little to get the ball joints out.



-Deon

 

[TurboTweaker]

if your handy with a torch, like i. you can cut them out in short order with out heating up the knuckle. i put anti seiz(sp?) on the new ones as they went in. sorry i wanst much help on the phone i was watching 3 computers and the pickup on th baler when you called.



The Fat Kid

Andy

 

[Joe Mc]

The heat I used from the little MAP tank was only enough to expand a bit and like Andy I used anti-seiz to help them go in.

 

[Extreme1]

I just use a hammer, they come out pretty good once you get the knuckle off the axle.



I learned a trick for that too: tap the side of the part the tappered part of the ball joint is stuck in. I tried heat, a fork and both at once. My mechanic friend told me about tapping the outside of the part the tappered part of the ball joint is stuck into. I went home and tried it (no heat) and it FELL OUT. This was after several attempts over a couple of days.



The same guy looked at me like I was stupid when I asked if I could use his ball joint press.

 

[Amianthus]

I've tried heat with limited success. I've also broken the MAC press I was using. Hydraulic was the ticket for me. All 75 tons worth. I didn't need that much, but you just never know. Hydraulic, with some strategic pieces of cut pipe works the best. You have my sympathies, and my wishes for the best of luck.

 

[DLausche]

I gave up on pressing them out/in myself and took it to NAPA machine shop yesterday. Cost 18$ each to press them out/in. Will be installing everything tonight including new track bar ends, EGR rotors+pads, & SS braided lines. New ball joints have zerks on them and I hope they last a long time because I don't want to have to do this awful job ever again. Thanks to everyone that help me out here!



-deon

 

[TurboTweaker]

DONT FORGET TO ANTI SEZIE THE WHEEL BEARING!



The Fat Kid

Andy

 

[Amianthus]

Except that the zerks on the upper balls can't be left in place. They interfere with the U-Joint. Sorry for the bad news. The kit should've come with some bolts to put in place of the zerks once you remove them.