How to set stock injection timing

[Madurski]

I've got a buddy with a 1st gen and he needs to reset the injection pump to stock after R&R of the head. I can't seem to find a procedure for this out there. I've tried several different searches but they all seem to come up with the pocedures for advancing the timing or they reference the FSM (which I don't possess). Any pointers would be appreciated.



Thanks,



Ron Madurski

 

[dpuckett]

I left the pump on my engine when I redid my head gasket, but anyway. THere should be marks on the flange of the pump and the back side of the gear housing. If it is the same pump, line up the marks. If there are no marks, here is a basic rundown of how to do it.



1) FInd true TDC. The timing pin gets you close enough to set the valve lash, but isnt consistently reliable for something as touchy as timing.

1a) find TDC with the timing pin. Then back the engine off about 30deg. tighten the intake valve adjusting screw 2 turns. GENTLY turn the engine in the direction of rotation (clockwise as you face the front of it) until the piston hits the valve. Mark the h-balancer in reference to something solid on the engine. (book recommends taking a piece of wire, and making a pointer out of it. ) Rotate the engine back the other way, GENTLY, til the piston hits the valve. Mark the balancer again. Split the difference, and that it true TDC. Loosen intake valve screw and turn engine back to TDC, reset lash.



2) rotate engine to about 25-30 deg BTDC.



3) Remove any injector lines in the way, and take out the plug in the middle of the end of the pump where the lines come out. (If you can get it with the lines still hooked up, I tip my hat to ya). Set up the dial indicator, and make sure to zero it.



4) Turn engine til you reach TDC. The amount the dial moves is your plunger lift at TDC. non-IC engines call for 1. 40mm (. 055"); intercooled is 1. 25mm (. 049"). Margin of error is +/- . 02mm, I believe.



5) If the pump is not where it should be, move it down (AFC away from head) to retard the timing; and up to advance it to where it needs to be. I would recommend rechecking it after adjusting just to be sure. I have mine in the range where a little too far makes me lose bottom end torque.



Daniel

 

[cerberusiam]

Daniel, Daniel your mother and I had such high hopes... ...





Not disin' ya bud but that way is no better and some times worse than than using the pin.





If you can't find the marks you should use the valve drop method instead of the valve touch method and run the engine in the direction of rotation for all the readings. There is enough lash in the gears, rods, wrist pins that you can be as much . 030 out when you reverse the rotation and that can translate to a lot of degrees.



1. Use a valve spring compressor on the #1 intake and let it touch the top of the piston and run #1 piston up until the valve quits moving



2. Put your gauge on the top of the valve and zero it when the valve quits going up.



3. Back the engine up until you see . 100 drop.



4. Run the engine is direction of rotation until you see . 050 of drop.



4. Mark the damper pulley.



5. Run the engine in the direction of rotation until the gauge zeros and starts dropping again to . 050.



6. Mark the damper.



Half way between these marks is true TDC. Back the engine up past the first mark then run it forward till its between the marks. Now you have true TDC and can follow the rest of Daniels instructions and specs.

 

[TKingsbury]

I still don't think that will give you true TDC. If you go until the valve stops moving you will be a few degrees off. Even after the piston stops moving, the crank will turn a few degrees with the piston stalled at the top. If you marked the damper where the valve (piston) stopped moving and then continued on until you find the point where it starts moving again, halfway between will be true TDC. OR, once you find where the valve stops moving then turn engine counter rotation and find where the valve stops moving again, halfway between is TDC. To clear things up, this would be without a valve spring using the valve only as an indicator of piston movement.

Travis. .

 

[dpuckett]

SHould have known better than to follow the DODGE book for a Cummins procedure

Or, if you dont have the valve spring compressor, you can pull the #1 injector, do basically the same thing, only with a 1/4" dowel in the injector hole. Mark the dowel about 30deg before TDC, along with the damper. Turn the engine, watching the dowel to come up and back down to its original spot. Mark the damper and split the difference.



BUT, you have to pull the injector, and that requires a new sealing washer, and that can be hard to come by in some areas. Plus, if you dont have a torque wrench, you may not get the injector back to the proper torque.



Uggghhh. It's been a long weekend. I'm going home. See ya all later,



-DP