how to Sharpen a Chain saw

[RottnDogue]

Sharpening a Chain saw is it rocket science, or can any Dumba$$ (that would be me) do it? What type of tool do you need? I'm guessing a file, round? size? Oh It's a Sears, Craftsman... Thing that sucks is I didn't hit the ground with it, and only cut about 5 medium size trees and I could chew threw the tree quicker than it cuts now... ... .



Darren

 

[Rob Thomas]

Mutt,



I use a file attachment jig thing on my Stihl, it comes with distructions, and yea, any dumba$$ can do it. You can purchase it at any quality outdoor power equipment store. Have fun!



BTW, if ya can't do it, chains are cheap!



Later, Rob

 

[dan_gilson]

The correct size file and trying to keep the angle near what it should be and it should take 5-10 minutes depending on the size of the bar. It is not very hard.



Suggestion: Paint red the master link or at least one of the links so that you know the starting and stopping place and sharpening.



Suggestion #2: Take your saw to a reputable place and get the correct size file. Probably a good start would be a sales/repair place. Hit the repair guy up for a lesson on sharpening. You might want to consider getting an extra chain or two. Depending on the saw it might be faster in the field to slip on another chain rather than sharpening. Then sharpen at home at a more convient time.



Suggestion #3 (expensive $100+): Get a Carbide tiped chain like the forrest service uses to fight fires that can take being put into the dirt and not dull out significantly.



Depending on the trees you might not have to worry about shaprening. Pine and firs do not tend to dull a chain fast. Have cut 1/2 a day on the same chain. On other occasions (a pepper tree) I cut only 10 minutes and it would not cut anymore.



Suggestion #4 (safety): get a helmet with hearing and face protection. Also get the special woven kevlar shapps. They will save your leg in case you happen to lay the bar on them. Make sure that you work with someone in case an accident happens. My dad was working alone and layed the bar across his thumb and had to drive himself to the hospital 10 miles away. It was a good thing that he did not get cut worse. We probably would have lost him.

 

[DarrellB]

I'm lazzy

I take mine to the Husky shop. They only charge $2. 50 off the saw. I do dress mine up in the field though with just a good round file. After about 2 dress ups I take them in and have them sharpend good by a pro.



Best advise I could give ya is to buy 2 more chains and keep a sharp one in the case at all times.



If you want some hard wood I've go two 32" Persimin trees I'm cutting down this fall. I figure on going through 3 chains getting those bad boys down. But boy do they make some good firewood. They also make a good mess on the side of the truck in the summer. (that's why they're coming down)



Darrell

 

[Ted Constantine]

Darren,



it is verty easy but does have a little art to it. You will pick it up quickly. Learn to do it your self it will save you a lot of money and chains in the long run and time. A good days cutting can mean shapening the saw 10 times. You can feel if you are doing it right as soon as the saw hits the tree. It should cut like butter. The only tip I have is to make sure you are twisting the file as your sharpening. Your files last longer and you get a cleaner edge. And I do mean twisting during the stroke not just between them.



I am with darrelB on the multiple chain plan. Have a couple around so you can have a sharpening sesion and then cut for a long time. And as the chains wear always keep an older one around for those times you know you will be hitting the ground or need to cut something dirty.



Ted

 

[RottnDogue]

Thanks everyone sounds easy enough, I'll give it a try... ... .



Darren

 

[OO]

Don't forget to take down your rakers after sharpening a couple times. They limit the depth each tooth can cut. The teeth are sloped a little and get lower the more you sharpen. All you need is a raker gauge and flat file. I use a . 035 which works good for most situations. If you take them down to far falling or bucking rounds will be impossible. Sure will limb good though.

 

[Doc Tinker]

Don't do it while it's running!!



Doc

 

[TORQUE THIS]

Darren,



Make up a fake business card and go to a good saw shop and get non-safety chain. It work 100% better.



You need to show that it is a business or they have to sell ya safety chain.



All chain from Sears, Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc is safety chain.



Get Oregon chain if ya can also. One of the best brands out there.





Like Doc said, Don't try it while it's runnin

 

[RottnDogue]

Originally posted by TORQUE THIS

Darren,

Like Doc said, Don't try it while it's runnin

Oh Geez Now you tell me... ... .





Darren

 

[emarsh]

In 1975 I was a factory mechanic for Homelite, a popular chain saw manufacturer at the time. Depending on the type of chain used, a correct file size for the chain you are using AND a raker gauge tool. You also need to file them as the chain gets sharpened, since the rakers must be cut back as the chain cutters shrink in size. For some people, it would be better to have them professionally sharpened, if you don't know what you are doing, you can ruin a good chain. You should always have at least 2, and prefeably 3 so that in the event you have one in the shop being sharpened you can still use the saw. Here is a little trick that you can use to get the "pitch" off the chains; put some Tide or other laundry soap with very hot water in a coffee can and let the chains soak for several hours. We found nothing better at getting the pitch off, this advice from a Canadian, Master Mechanic Jerry Fredrick, god rest his soul. Ed

 

[Koa Man]

Oven cleaner also works very well in getting pitch, sap and other junk off the chain. Sharpen the chain as soon as you notice it is not cutting like it was when it was new. It will only need a few light touches with a file. If you let it get to the point where the edges are rounded down, you will need an electric bench sharpener to get it sharp again. I have an Oregon bench sharpener at home, but use files in the field to touch up the chains. A dull chain will also rapidly wear out the bar and clutch because you will greatly increase the downward pressure to force it to cut. A real sharp chain should be able to cut the wood with the weight of the saw and very little pressure applied.

 

[dan_gilson]

I forgot about the chip limiter from my previous. There are some advantages and disadvanges in using safety chains. A safety chain will limit the size of the chip(cut) by a link that is directly after the cutter link (raker limiter). The advantage to using a safety chain is they are safer. There is less of a tendancy to kick back if you start working close to the tip. The disadvantage is that cut slower. The chip size is smaller so it takes more teeth cutting to get the same job done. Unless you are cutting a lot and frequently a safety chain will be your best bet. When you get better you can take a little more off of the chip limiter link so that it will cut faster. But it will stiff be safer than a chain without a chip limiter.



Oven cleaner is about the best for pitch build up. I use it on my table saw blades too. Just remember to wear eye protection AND rubber gloves when handling!

 

[moparguy]

Burn Persimmon, say it ain't so.

DarrellB, big persimmon trees can be worth a lot of money. If they are clear (no rot, nails or wire grown in), someone near you wants them for lumber.



Check around with any custom wood workers, small bandsaw lumber mill operators, or cabnet makers. It's a good dense, hard, stable wood with great color when dryed and finished.



Golf club manufactures were payin a lot of money for good persimmon a few years back, don't know about now but I'd check around.



Ronnie