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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) How tough to replace injectors ???

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Yet another injector question

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I just bought a set of RV275s from a TDR fellow (thank you).



I am goign to tackle job myself, I have good mechanical knowledge and tools. I have a OEM shop manual and it mentions 2 special tools.



Do I really need them ? How tough is this job ?
 
A 24V injector install is no problem. Shouldn't take you more than 1-2 hours even for the first time. A set of bent-nose pliers is handy for pulling the injectors and you'll need a 19mm crow-foot or flare-nut socket to torque the injector line nuts back to 28 ft lbs. You'll also need a torque wrench that measures in "inch pounds" to torque the injector hold-down bolts.



Use the set of directions at the link below to guide you through the install. A shop manual will just confuse you and isn't as detailed as the ones below - throw it away. ;) It also tells you that you need special tools that you really don't. :rolleyes: Just follow the instructions below and you'll be fine.



Injector Installation
 
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I dove into my injector swap on a truck that I was afraid of breaking when it only had 14K miles on it.



Turns out it's nothing to fear. One thing just be sure your newly installed injectors seat properly into the head. What I did was screw the bolt into the injector, place a 2x4 scrap over it, and gently hammer it down to make sure it seated.



Before I did this, I had an injector leaking compression into the fuel return system. ONce I did this, all my problems went away.



Just work slowly and methodically, and you will be fine.



Some other things I recommend:

1) A 19mm stubby wrench is your friend-- you'll regret not having one on #6! FYI-- a 3/4" wrench is close enough to 19mm that you can use it without damaging the nuts.

2) Work from the back to the front, starting with the toughest ones. Then, as you tire, you have the easier parts left.

3) Remove the lifting eye at the back of the head and throw it in the toolbox-- you won't need it any time soon.



Follow the DD instructions that HH posted and you will be fine.



Justin
 
Those instructions say 1998. 5-2000, was that written in 2000, or is it different for 2001 and 2002, specifically the HO since thats what I have and I'll be doing this pretty soon.

Thanks,

R. J.
 
I used the DD and another set of directions and had no problems. I was even able to use a TQ wrench on #6 injector line. I would suggest that you either get a sheet of gasket material or get an intake gasket b4 you start. My lower gasket tore when I lifted the grid heater. I also had the injector connector tube O-rings handy, which is why I didn't need them.
 
"What I did was screw the bolt into the injector, place a 2x4 scrap over it, and gently hammer it down to make sure it seated. "



Ouch. . I have seen injectors that were beat in... You should not have to hit the injector. . use a little lube on the Oring... before install the injector look down in the injector bore, and push the injector feed tube back so the injector will just fall in. . you may have to pull the line away from the head a little...

There are instructions floating around from DD. . but I couldn't find them...



One last thing... once in a while you will need a intake horn gasket. . If its been off before. . its normally not a problem... I have had to replace a few. . I Keep them in stock. .

Bryan



Edit:... duhh. . I didn't see that HH had posted the instructions... :rolleyes:
 
Got it done guys !!! Thank you for the help, it was an easy job, it took me about 1. 5hrs.



Definitely DD instructions work better than OEM manual... . :-laf
 
So how do you like them? I found the instructions from when I put them in, but they were pretty ratty. I meant to e-mail you a link... sorry about that.

Corey
 
They are OK, but I thought they will give a little more kick.



I tried them without VanAaken, then with it and with boost to 30lbs.



I will test it better with a trailer this week.



My main concern now is transmission, it might be going south.....





Thank you for your deal, I will check also mileage, should be better too.
 
Do you have a boost fooler hooked up? (Saw your other post) If it's making that much boost without one I think it defuels. My mileage went up by about 1 to 1. 5 mpg. I can check, I may have a boost fooler laying around.

Corey
 
I am trying to find out if I can build one, I have a boost elbow, but I am sure it defuels after 20lbs.



If you have a fooler let me know, I'll take it... . if it's cheap... :D
 
If you have an elbow installed with no boost fooler on the MAP sensor you will be going into limp mode.
 
TractorNut said:
"What I did was screw the bolt into the injector, place a 2x4 scrap over it, and gently hammer it down to make sure it seated. "



Ouch. . I have seen injectors that were beat in... You should not have to hit the injector. . use a little lube on the Oring... before install the injector look down in the injector bore, and push the injector feed tube back so the injector will just fall in. . you may have to pull the line away from the head a little...



They key is GENTLY-- just a little tappy tap tap. This is AFTER the injector has already been seated using the pry-the-crossover-tube-out method you described.



I had to do this because somehow my bentnose BIG needlenose went missing :confused:



I developed this habit because I've had problems on previous injector swaps with the Copper washer leaking a little bit of compression-- they just weren't seated enough. The torque on the crossbar that holds the injector in is NOT enough to seat an injector in my experience.



jmo
 
Yes. . Hohn. . I knew what you ment. . (not getting out the big hammer). . 89in lbs isn't enough to do much... I have taken injectors out that where scratched, and scraped up, from the feed tube. .
 
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