2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission How tuff to R&R ball joints?

[tmacc]

At 72k both of my driver's side ball joints are bad. How tough of a job is it to replace them? What knid of special tools will I need. I can handle just about any mechanical job. Just wondering if it's worth the hassle or should I take it to my local mechanic? Are there any other sources for ball joints other than dodge? The local parts place only has ball joints up to '98.

TIA

Tom

 

[**ICEMAN**]

tom,,on my '94 i took the steering knuckle and new lifetime joints from NAPA to a machine shop and had them press the old ones out and new ones in.

 

[jpearson]

Not too bad, I just did mine this past weekend. You will need a big 2 or 3 jaw puller to remove the rotor / hub assembly and a ball joint press. Auto Zone loans both of these tools for a refundable doposit. You have to remove the 1-11/16" nut and the 4 bolts on the back side which takes a 9/16 12 point socket. Before you start trying to pull rotor with the puller I think it might help to put the 4 - 9/16 bolts in about half way and take a big hammer to a socket with an extension and try to get the rotor assembly broke loose from the outer knuckle, this should help keep the sealded bearing from seperating, which mine did. If the bearing does come apart it can be pressed back together. When you get this far a big hammer will break the knuckle that holds the ball joints loose. Read this attached thread it is good information.









https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20761[/URL]

 

[tmacc]

Thanks guys. After getting a quote from our local mechanic, I'm going to tackle this myself.

jpearson, thanks for the reference to Bill Littlefield's post. Very Helpful.

Don, I might need to borrow those sockets. I'll let you know.

 

[tmacc]

OK, I'm a little confused here. The ball joints appear to be mounted to the axle housing. Did DC change something. I don't understand what to take to the machine shop to have pressed out and in

Iceman, if you would, take a look at your '94 and the '01. 5 and see if they are the same. Thanks.

Tom

 

[Got Smoke?]

I just had both passenger ball joints done today because I didn't want to fool with having to get a machine shop to press 'em in.



$220 for 2 installed isn't that bad in my opinion. $40 for 1, $60 for the other, and $100 for labor. I think I came out on top.



Will be installing a track bar myself because I still have front end popping!

 

[tmacc]

I got a quote for $535 for two. :--)

Edit: That's for one side.

 

[Jeff Knight]

Hey Tom, My 95's were different than my 02. The ball joints on my 02 are in the housing. Don't know what it will take to change them. Jeff

 

[tmacc]

Jeff,

The manual shows a puller or press type of special tool. I'm going to try and rent one somewhere. Sat. at Kaufmann's was a blast wasn't it.

Got smoke?,

Since I paid about $160 for both joints, one side, I don't think I'm going to get the kind of deal you got. I went to parts.com and checked most of the dealers and this price is about $20 under the next cheapest guy. :{ Who knows when the after market guys will get around to mfrg. parts for the '99 and up trucks.

 

[Jeff Knight]

Sat at Kauffman's was a great time. Can't wait till next time. Jeff

 

[rkressg]

Originally posted by tmacc

Jeff,

The manual shows a puller or press type of special tool. I'm going to try and rent one somewhere. Sat. at Kaufmann's was a blast wasn't it.

Got smoke?,

Since I paid about $160 for both joints, one side, I don't think I'm going to get the kind of deal you got. I went to parts.com and checked most of the dealers and this price is about $20 under the next cheapest guy. :{ Who knows when the after market guys will get around to mfrg. parts for the '99 and up trucks.

On the newer trucks, 2000 up, you need a small ball joint press. The ball joints are pressed into the axle housing. The press looks like a large c-clamp. You can get these from any tool ware house. Do not buy the cheep presses for these trucks, it will break. You will need a very powerful press to do this. The only problem with this is the tool can cost as much as $300. Because the joints are in the housing, you would have to remove the axle from the truck to use a normal press. OTC makes them. The Mopar tool is made by SPX tool, hard-line Miller Tools. Get the tool number from your dealership. If it starts with C, it is a Miller and you can get it for much less from a tool distributer.

 

[tmacc]

RGilbert,

Thanks for the info. $300! Yeesh!! Just gets better and better.

 

[Jeff Knight]

Snap-on also makes the tool. We used one to press mine in my 95. Jeff

 

[tmacc]

By the time I get everything together, I might as well have our mechanic do it. None of the local parts places rent tools. The closest Auto Zone is 40 mins away in a direction that I rarely travel. The only thing is I use the truck every day for work. Has all of my tools etc. What a PITA! Why can't they built these things to last? I know the new Ford aren't any better, but my previous 2 Fords went 150K before any front end parts needed replacing. And I don't recall ever replacing a ball joint. OK,I've vented. Time to go replace the brake pads that only last 20K. Grumble-grumble.

 

[Jeff Knight]

Could the tool be something the club could go together to buy? We will all need it at some point! Just thinking out loud. The snap-on tool worked great. It's heavy duty. Any thoughts? Jeff

 

[tmacc]

Jeff,

That is a good thought. I have a some Snap-on tools from my m'cycle wrenching days. I post it on MD-TDR after I get finished w/ the brake pads. I wonder if snap-on has the 46 torx that the calipers need.

 

[Jeff Knight]

I have a snap-on tool catalog at work. I will look in it on Mon for the press. I will try to get a price on it. Jeff