How would i homebrew a extended trac bar?

[Seed Guy]

I want to get some D25 coils in to level out my 2500. Cash is not in great supply right now (student) and i dont want to trash my bushings and tires. Anyway to lengthen it the cheap way, i was thinking cut and get a pieice too weld around the pieces.

 

[Rob Thomas]

You don't need to alter or get a new track bar, the D25's don't cause any problems. There is alot of guys here that have installed the leveling springs (as did I), and my bet is most didn't change/alter the track bar. Any higher lift, and you would need to.



Later, Rob

 

[willyslover]

and if it did ... . get some 120 wall chrome molly pipe and weld some heavy nuts on the end for high quality heim joints

 

[Seed Guy]

Nice i think i will going that road then Rob. Can i just run my stock shocks till summer when i change them all to bilstiens?

 

[B KIRK]

I have a 30 ton press in my garage. Put it in there and took out some of the bend in the "S" area of the bar. Lengthened it about 1/2". Centered axle right up. Didn't take much to straighten a small area. No heat used either.



Brad

 

[tgbol]

When the track bar on my Jeep went south I made it adjustable.

I went through the Moog catalog and found a tie rod end that fit the bracket on the Jeep. Then cut the end off of the track bar and threaded it to fit the tie rod end. When I lifted thJeep I adjusted it to center the front axle.

 

[RO'neal]

Originally posted by Seed Guy

Nice i think i will going that road then Rob. Can i just run my stock shocks till summer when i change them all to bilstiens?

Yes you can run the stock shocks.

 

[Ted Constantine]

Seed i went through the same issue over teh summer when i installed d25s. I ran the stock track bar for a couple months but it seemed to go south pretty quickly. I replaced it with a dt bar and have never looked back. It has been flawless. I my second stock bar had not gone bad I would still have it in there but I could not see buying a new part that left the axle off center.

Ted

 

[Extreme1]

Originally posted by willyslover

and if it did ... . get some 120 wall chrome molly pipe and weld some heavy nuts on the end for high quality heim joints

Just be sure to pre and post heat the joints to prevent martensite from forming, the result would be a brittle failure.

 

[TPlasek]

Seed Guy, keep me posted on what you figure out. There is no way I am going to spend $300 on $80 of aftermarket tubing and rod end (heim) joints.



My Trac bar is in need of replacement, I looked briefly at what would be required. The axle end is easy... you can change it to a rod end (heim) or just reuse that end of the factory bar with new bushings. I was thinking of threading the bar somewhere in the middle and using a rod end(heim) on the other. There would have a to be a little welding/ fab work on the other end.



Keep me posted. If I get time to proceed further, I will keep you updated on how I do it.

 

[Seed Guy]

Yeah i think i might just have to order my coils and go to my dads friends fab shop, he has press out the a**. Just press a little bit out of the S sounds like a real good idea to me. Maybe this summer when time is a little more available i will fab up a trac bar, i agree it looks pretty easy and DT profab will even sell you just the rod ends and even tabs if you want to be really custom.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Great idea Brad!