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HTT Stage III Kit

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Those running the HTT Stage III turbo kit chime in here. What are the pros and cons of this setup? Looking for an upgrade from the ole H1C until I can get some work done to my HX35. Sound over stock turbo? Boost pressure? EGT reduction? HP gained over stock turbo? As always any comments are appreciated.
 
Hey Monty,

I don’t have many miles behind the wheel of HTT's new line of turbos, but they seem to be working pretty well. The charger with the 62mm compressor inducer, and 14cm2 exhaust housing is the one I have the most experience with. Spools great, and has good top end. Thought it was a little small for this application ('02 12v with a little fuel), but seems to be working surprisingly well. (596hp)



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Next week we will be testing the 64mm compressor, and the 66mm with a clipped turbine wheel.



Mike
 
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Superb power out of that truck. . especially on a single. I wouldn't want to drive it daily though. too slow to spool.



What truck is that on? It looks like you started the pull at 1800... is it an auto? An auto would explain the late start. Since you'd have to keep the revs up to keep it in OD.



It didn't break the 300 ftlb mark until 1900 rpm. What's up with that? It looks a litttle slow to spool, 600 rpm beginning at 1800?? 1800-2000 is enough to spool a 16cm housing on a 24V. A stock turbo makes 300ftlb at 12-1400 rpm on a very midly fueled truck. From your post I'd guess at garrett T series hybrids they like to use mm on wheel sizes and A/R instead of area like holset.



Is it non WG? with the slow spool and the good top end extension it looks like a fairly large non WG housing.



It made good power, I'll give it that. Probably fun at the strip but lacking for in town and towing.



You couldn't drive it in denver. The altitude would make it a smoke generator.



Here's a stock '01 ho with 4" and a PE Comp

http://groups.msn.com/MarksBigRAM/dynotime.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=25



The same truck, same day with DD3s

http://groups.msn.com/MarksBigRAM/dynotime.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=26



These weren't 600hp runs by any means, but they should give folks something to compare it too.



Later,

Mark
 
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Monty,

We put one in my son's 94 with a WH1C. It was a stage III high flow and we had to machine out the back plate and he had to buy a new housing. The only results I can talk about is that it lowered his EGT enough to get below Chernoble temps when he tows a car..... with him it's always hammer down regardless of what the pyro says. It's a little louder than stock.

A friend at work with a 96 also did a stage III upgrade to his HX35 and it helped him get his smoke and EGT (from the marine 370s) down to a managable level... .

Neither of those guys dynoed before and after so I don't know exactly what the upgrades added to their "portfolio".

Hope this helps.

Jay
 
I have spoken with the guys at HTT "MANY" times as I'm a little shy to invest more $$$ into my HX35 .



I was told the modified HX35 w/58mm wheel and 16cm housing would be what I need for a 350 hp truck or under. I believe it's not near enough. I have yet to dyno and "could" be well above 350 now but have no way to know.



Some say boost psi is related to engine HP. I'm not a believer. The Cummins specs I have been reading will list all sorts of HP #'s and I have yet to see any relationship such as 10 HP per pound of boost.



HTT said I need a stage three turbo. An HX35 with 60mm wheel. They recomended the 16cm housing because the smaller housing will give good spool but too high drive pressures. Too large a housing will be slow to spool and generate too much smoke. I doubt a 60 mm wheel is going to cool my temps.



I'm going to install the 21cm housing with the 60mm wheel and see how that effects my current EGT that operate at nucular temps when at WOT



BTW I was also told the OEM 12 valve cylinder heads flow better air at WOT than the 24 valve engines do. I have no idea what this does in terms of turbo application. I'm not experimenting with overvalved engines.



-S
 
I've dyno'd enough trucks that 1psi=10hp is a GODD RULE OF THUMB. A stock hx35 12 will handle 300-320hp in stride with warm but not astronomical EGTs.



My '92 with 60hp injectors, 3. 5" exhaust(scavenged off a 3gen ;)), a 12cm housing and the normal pump mods wouldn't make 1200* pre turbo towing 5500lb against the governor(~100mph) while getting 19mpg. the truck made 28-32psi on a non WG 12cm H1C and got 22-25mpg unloaded.



Why in GODs name would you want a 21cm housing on anything this side of an N14???? you know you hcan get an HT3B in a 22cm don't you?



you got it backwards... A ported 12v doesn't flow as well as a stock 24v head.



FWIW,

Mark
 
I have to make a correction. I was told the 12 valve head flow better at "high engine speeds" than a 24 valve at high speeds. Where as the 24v head flows better at lower speeds. Was also told ... "just because the newer engines have 24 valves don't mean that thet flow better than 12". I have always thought the opposite , however the people that modify these things and sell hot rod parts for them probably know more than I do.





I'm not as concerned about smoke and spool time as I am about high EGT at WOT. I'd like to experiment with various housings to determine how they effect my EGT's



EGT is the limiting factor for us. It's doesn't care if you have spent $1400 on a pump and $600 for injectors. You can only hold your foot in the throttle as long as you'r under 1300° If you want to pull that load past the powerjokes you have to keep the EGT's down enough to use the fuel your pushing to the combustion chambers.



I'd like to take my truck to someone and have them install twins... . but lack the necessary funds. So I'm experimenting with single turbo's on my own :(



-S
 
Mark, a non gated 12? Monty, what shape is that hx35 in you have? I think I'd put money in it before the dinosaur H1C. GL, with I was non-IC'd, had the baby non-IC'd H1C, 37psi on the street, 37psi on the dyno jet, I laid down 243hp. Which with the nonIC'd H1C, no IC, I was just blowing alot of hot air, so maybe I don't count for the 1psi =10hp.
 
The IC would definitely be the difference. Mine was a '92, it had an intercooler. I wish i'd never sold that truck.



IT was the the most fun to drive. a Std cab long bed 2wd 5spd. ran like a dream great mileage and enough power to tow more than you could stop. awesome for runnin around town and just barely blew a puf of smoke. The perfect urban assault vehicle ;):cool:
 
not that I would recomend running a 21cm on an HX35 or H1C, but they did come w/ them from the factory, and there's a BIG difference between an HT3B turbine wheel and an HX35/H1C turbine! :D
 
Scott,

Got the pm and sent an answer. It's yours to borrow and play around with.

Feel free to port/polish it if ya want.

Jay
 
Forrest Nearing said:
not that I would recomend running a 21cm on an HX35 or H1C, but they did come w/ them from the factory, and there's a BIG difference between an HT3B turbine wheel and an HX35/H1C turbine! :D



What'd that difference be :):D:D



The most common mod for a 1st gen is a 16cm housing. . 25% smaller than the 21cm housing & 14% smaller than the 18. 5cm.
 
bgilbert said:
Mark, a non gated 12? Monty, what shape is that hx35 in you have? I think I'd put money in it before the dinosaur H1C. GL, with I was non-IC'd, had the baby non-IC'd H1C, 37psi on the street, 37psi on the dyno jet, I laid down 243hp. Which with the nonIC'd H1C, no IC, I was just blowing alot of hot air, so maybe I don't count for the 1psi =10hp.





Bill, the HX35 was off of JR Adkins truck. LOL He said it was fine when he pulled it off. The end to end clearance is good and the side to side play is managable without hitting the compressor housing. However, the impeller does have some pitting marks in it. Im not dead set yet on a HTT kit so if yall think that a better turbo would suit my needs let me know. Ive been out of the loop for too long I just dont know what is out there right now.
 
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