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Hub Bearing Assemblies

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front u-joint broken

Blend Door Breakage

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1/8" larger in what respect?



If its cross length, as long as the retain ring grooves are the same, the caps will stick out further.



I'm pretty sure the 464 is the number I used, and its been in for 100k... they haven't changed the front axles since 03 as far as I know...
 
Thanks for the help. It turns out that I slightly bent the yokes when I removed the caps, I used an impact socket to keep from hitting the yoke, but apparently still bent the yokes. Just beat them back into place and the u-joint fit right in.



Steven
 
JFought

to make a grease zert for the hub, i went to the machine shop and had them drill a hole through the bolt, then tap the head out to a . 25 fine thread for a . 25 grease zert.



He is willing to make a min. of thirty for 8 dollares each. Any one interested?



I would be interested in a couple. How about IM me... John
 
hey just a head up, i found it, it was the skf automotive site

SKF Automotive on-line catalog



i kept looking on their bearing site that why i counld not find it



the part# for and '06 is br930507

thanks for the leg work i will post on hows it goes. later
 
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Front axle bearings

Funny you should mention it:) I just got back from Big-O where they gave my 2006 2500 4x4 a good going over. The only thing they could find was about 1/16" play on the front bearings. Not enought to worry about right now, he said.



He quoted me a price of $600! Each! Not including labor! :eek:



I about passed out.



So, your price doesn't sound too bad to me:-laf



Tim
 
the ones of skf, the few who had it wanted too much 300. and up, found some for 213. 00 from orlando truck parts in orlando, fl, they got timiken bearing in them when i pick them up i will ask if the are rebuildable/ repackable... .
 
The bolt

I've also IM'd JFought and haven't heard anything. He's probably gone having too much fun. He indicated the machine shop wanted a min. order so it would be good to let him know by IM who wanted these. That way he'd have an idea if that min. would be covered... John
 
EB Atmus no longer carries these hubs (as per the Texas rep / sept 2009) and referred me to the usuals.



I would also like to ask about how to get the studs seated through the rotor to the hub. I've ruined 3 studs and scrapped all lug nuts.

I beat the hell out them with a sledge and then pulled them the rest of the way using the lug nuts and impact wrench.

Is there a better way? Too late now, but I imagine at some point the other side will need done.
 
sorry i thought i reposted what i found.



The threaded bolt hole would need to drilled all the way to the interior. thats not to bad but the grease fitting interfears with the abs sensor.



(also ther is clearance issues with the dust guard and the grease fitttings, and how to attach an extend grease hose, so i wouldn't have to pull the wheel)



therefore it does work in te way i tried. i am still thinking about it.
 
Has any one come up with a solution (ie JFought's idea on a greaseable unit) ?



I just replaced both of mine, what a pitty...



- Dan
 
its a clearance issue. i tried. but there is not much room to bend/ attach a hose/tube to be able to access/grease without removing the tire and rotor.

the second issue (which some one has done) is to drill a new hole to the "wet" area to add some ability to grease it.

ultimately, i just have pretty much decided to tear it apart and pull abs sensor and grease about every 40K miles. I waited 10K before greasing the new ones. That was at 65K miles. I do have a full front bumper with 16K winch, that cant really help things... .
 
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