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Hub Bearing Removal Tips

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shocks Kore chase suspenion 2003. broken

Need some feedback from you guys... Powder coat wheels or not?

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In a few weeks I will be tearing down the front end of my 05 2500. Main goal is to replace the sloppy u joints on the front axle. I have been doing lots of research on removing the front hub bearings, and even picked up the Snapon DPH1 (dodge hub bearing removal ) tool for cheap off ebay.

My question is, has anyone got experience using this tool and willing to give a newby some tips? Snapons website shows using it with long pry bar to push ou the bearing, but I am leaning toward using the powersteering (Illinois Winters love salt... this baby aint gonna pop out easy).

Thanks in advance.
 
If this is the long socket type tool, it should work well. I used an ordinary 18MM deep socket. Have a helper run the knuckle to full lock via power steering. It worked for me after struggling otherwise. Just go easy on the steering linkage. Just make sure all the hub bolts are loose!! Also, loosen the big center nut first before jacking it up. Ensure you have good jacks and axle stands, as well as a good surface. This ain't no Corolla!

Do a quick search. Lots of info here under free spin kits/swaps and ball joints. Basically you're doing the same job.

I see this is your first post, Do you know about the free spin kits? how are your bearings? Ball Joints?

Welcome to the TDR!
 
Thanks Wayne,

This is my first post... Long time reader though. Just finally was able to get a cummins powered truck last October.

Really the balljoints, and hub bearings are in good shape as far as I can tell... front end feels really tight, I just noticed when I changed the oil that there was visible play in both u joints.

Wonder if P.O. may have changed ball joints and not done u joints? Truck has 95k on it.
 
Just did this last weekend. Did not have the snapon tool, but used a 6" extension and a deep 19mm impact socket. ALSO, sprayed evrey nut and bolt that I was going to remove with PB Blaster and then Kroil a couple times during the week before in anticipation of the work. VERY glad that I had a 3/4" impact to remove the axle nut!!! It is torqued to 240#, so you need a breaker bar and a LONG pipe extension to pop it...be sure to loosen it while the truck is still on the ground. Also, it is a 1 11/16" nut, I used a 6 sided 1 3/4" and made 3 metal shims to take up the slack between the nut and socket. It worked for me, but it would be best to buy the socket if you can, I just didn't have time and place to get it. Once the axle nut was loosened, put the truck up on jack stands, pulled the wheels, calipers and rotor, partially loosend the 4 bolts holding the unit hubs on, did the PS trick with the socket extension and a freind on the steering wheel, and the hubs popped right off in less then a minute each side. Of course I do not drive salted roads, so that likely helped alot.
 
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as said above SOAK everything with PB blaster or the like prior to removing.
Get the 1-11/16" socket witha 3/4" drive (1/2" will break the end of the breaker bar off, been there done that)
IF you forgot to loosen the axle nut prior to jacking the truck off the ground just stick a big screwdriver in the axle u-joint that'll stop it from spinning.
When doing the PS trick have your helper "bounce/saw" the steering back and forth rather than just trying to crank more presure onto the parts.
DO NOT stick the jack stands under the control arms.
When re-installing clean ALL the rust off the unit bearings and steering knuckle. Apply anti-sieze to both before reassembly. Next time they'll come right off.
When re-installing the axle nut get it as tight as possible in the air (see u-joint/screwdriver trick above) BEFORE putting the truck on the ground. Otherwise the bearings will be preloaded with the vehicle weight. Stub axle holds unit bearing together.
 
I would recommend grease able u-joints and install them so the fitting is under compression, not tension. Now would also be a good time for a free-spin kit.
 
Just a quick piece of advice......

I am doing this now. Only have an hour or so a night to work on this. But tonight I was taking things apart. Got to the caliper brackets. The 18mm bolts would not budge. Not with a breaker bar, not with my snap on impact..... Thinking I am sunk cause you can't get a cheater in there.

I put the breaker bar back on it (pass side) and put the floor jack under the end of the bar and jacked away. Broke one socket, but got both bolts loose. Can't believe I have never used this method before. I must be finally figuring out the saying......... Work smarter, not harder.


Hope this helps someone.
 
Just a quick piece of advice......

I am doing this now. Only have an hour or so a night to work on this. But tonight I was taking things apart. Got to the caliper brackets. The 18mm bolts would not budge. Not with a breaker bar, not with my snap on impact..... Thinking I am sunk cause you can't get a cheater in there.

I put the breaker bar back on it (pass side) and put the floor jack under the end of the bar and jacked away. Broke one socket, but got both bolts loose. Can't believe I have never used this method before. I must be finally figuring out the saying......... Work smarter, not harder.


Hope this helps someone.

amazing how it works though.
age I mean.
young and dumb...old(er) and smarter! (most of the time)
 
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