2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission hub nut size ????

[roller1000]

What size nut is holding the bearing hub on my 2001 4wd 4 wabs. And what is the magic word to get that f-ing thing off? I tried a 3ft bar and had it soaked for over a week. The socket I have is a little big but it was not slipping. Help!!! Thanks#@$%!

 

[MarkMiller]

Front or rear hub retaining nut?

If it is the rear, make sure you have the locking teeth fully out of the lock ring.

 

[roller1000]

sorry I should of said that is is the front left. thanks

 

[Dave M]

I did front rotors on my 97 (I think its the same as yours) and here is some info for you:



Axle nut is (almost 2 inches) 12 point 1 11/16" (3/4 or 1 inch drive socket recommended... I used a 3/4 socket with a 3/4 to 1/2 in adapter on my 1/2 inch ratchet and broke it)... . start looking for this socket cause it's to very hard to find (axle nut TQ=175 ft-lbs). Edit: A 6 point will work but the 12 pt seems to fit better. For some reason I had to turn the socket to fit only one way... I don't know why but it had to be oriented in one direction to slip on. NAPA had the socket for about $30. It is a Hard-To-Find size so start looking.



I had to use heat from a MAPP torch to heat up the nut and then hit it again with my 600 ft-lb impact wrench. Before that I broke several 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapters using about a 5 foot pipe for a breaker bar on my 1/2 inch ratchet and jumping up and down on the end but to no avail. Heating the nut did it for me. Be carefull how much heat you use or you will cook the sealed hub bearings and need to replace the expensive hub assembly.



Four hub bolts holding hub to knuckle are 12 pt only 14 MM or 9/16 socket (TQ=125 ft-lbs). This is usually more difficult to remove than the axle nut due to the interference fit of the hub to the steering knuckle assembly. There are many posts on tricks to try to seperate the hub from the knuckle.



Consider replacing the wheel studs since you need to pound them out to get rotors off the hub... . or a least have a few spare studs to replace those you mess up..... I re-used all of mine but wish I'd replaced them. Your 2001 may not have the rotor attached the the hub with these wheel studs as my 97 does. On later year trucks Dodge changed the designso the hubs did not need to be removed to replace the rotors like it is on my 97 but I don't know what year that was changed... . I think it was 99... . someone can correct me here.



Since I was replacing my rotors I replaced all the caliper pins, metal sleeves, rubber sleeves but you can clean, silicone grease, and re-use the old ones.



Here is a thread where I had several links to posts of descriptions with pics of this job (see post # 5):



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ssions/202682-brake-job-my-99-any-advice.html



Dave

 

[roller1000]

Thanks for the info. That is what I am looking for. I am replacing my hub/bearing so its ok to put the heat to it. Wow that gives me warm fuzzy feelings that the job of getting the hub off is usually more difficult then getting the hub nut off! Thanks for the info!!!

 

[fest3er]

As Dave said, they're on with a lot of torque, probably well more than the requisite 175 ft-lb. If they were ever off, they were likely put back on with a 3/4" or 1" impact wrench. If you have a stout breaker bar, you could use a floor jack to gently and slowly apply all the torque you need to loosen the nut. (At least it worked for me. )

I think a 42mm socket was *marginally* small, but I tapped it on and it worked anyway.

 

[Dave M]

Just to make it clear how I removed my axle nut, I hit the nut will my 600 ft-lb air impact wrench WHILE IT WAS HOT! I had soaked it many times with PB Blaster.



The floor jack under the breaker bar might work to... . I hadn't thought of that trick.



Be carefull with the axles. If they fall out (mine did) they will deform the rubber lip of the seal inside the axle on passenger side ( in cad assembly) or in the differential housing (requiring removal of the ring and pinion gears) on the drivers side. My drivers side is still leaking. Get someone to support the axle while you pull the hub.

 

[MarkMiller]

Be very careful removing that bearing assembly. I have seen all manner of things happen in the process. I used a a hot wrench, and a ten ton puller and a 16 pound sledge to get mine off and the one that stuck sounded like a gunshot when it let go. Some will come apart, some don't. I got the nut of with my Ingersoll Rand 2135 TI impact. It has a little more oomph than most 1/2 inch impacts.

Anywhere near Northern VA?

I converted to part time hubs with a kit from EMS Offroad. It makes life much easier. For 10 bucks in hub seals and about 4 fours worth of my time in the shop I can repack my bearings. Did I mention there is no chance of exploding steel or hot grease with their system?

 

[jkalchik]

I converted to part time hubs with a kit from EMS Offroad. It makes life much easier. For 10 bucks in hub seals and about 4 fours worth of my time in the shop I can repack my bearings. Did I mention there is no chance of exploding steel or hot grease with their system?

You ain't helping, Mark!!!!!!



I've got around 250k miles on my 99, and, AFAIK, it's still got the original hubs. I bought with 94k on it, and haven't changed them. And I really should change the balljoints in the next couple of weeks.



As far as the EMS kit goes, how difficult was it to install?

 

[Swineheart]

I'am considering the EMS kit also and how much work it is to do it?

 

[HCannon]

Just finished putting the EMS kit on a 3500 dually. It all went smooth for me, the hard part was money. It was going to cost a bunch no matter how it was done. One wheel bearing was out, seals leaking, would not change into 4x4, pads and disk shot. I also went for a new axle on the right. The hub ext. that were on it wouldn't work so had to get new ones. I was told that they could be milled out but looked like they would be pretty thin, and they didn't recommend doing that. Ended up spending over 2k. I plan on driving it for a long time, will have to now. 4x4s are great till you have to work on them. Always in a spot where I have to have them. Going to have to remember to lock-up before you need it.

 

[MarkMiller]

Yep, same as Cannon, only problem was spending the cash. I had one of their first kits so there were some small hiccups but nothing that they did not immediately remedy. The kit went on smoothly and has worked fine the entire time. I didn't clean and repack the bearings after a saltwater submersion (me and wife were at beach and a hurricane had come through so there were lots of deep puddles, up to 4 feet, that we had to drive through to get to the beach from the house we stayed in) so I am now waiting on a new set of spindles from EMS.

There is also a new seal design they have for the shafts that is a Nascar style seal made for them by a Nascar parts supplier that is supposed to be THE stuff. It is a big upgrade from the original stuff.

No more throwing the lever and hoping its in 4x4. No more $700 unit bearings. For the cost of a decent lunch I can clean and repack the bearings, and if they need replacing it is still only 50 bucks and any parts store has them in stock. (I prefer to get them from a heavy duty truck parts place, cheaper and I can get National seals and real Timken bearings)

There are upgrades you can do to the kit. Bigger axle shafts and hubs mostly. It depends on what you do with your truck. I run 35 spline chrome-moly inner and outer axle shafts. Mostly ecause my Jeep already runs the same shafts and I run 38 inch tires on my 2500 that dynos over 500 rwhp and 1100 ft lbs. I wanted the beef. I also am not afraid of putting the hammer down when I need to. This past winter I got run off the road by a minivan (had a herd of kids in it) anyhow, in the process of trying to get out of the deep ditch (37 in tires couldn't be seen) the hubs held up fine, tires dug well, but I snapped the sector shaft of the steering box. If it ain't on thing its another...

I will be putting the kit on my "new" 01 Dually soon as it needs bearings.

Overall, the EMS guys are great to work with, the product is time and torture proven by me and I recommend it. If you can get the factory pieces off.

 

[CCiatteo]

I did front rotors on my 97 (I think its the same as yours) and here is some info for you:



Axle nut is (almost 2 inches) 12 point 1 11/16" (3/4 or 1 inch drive socket recommended... I used a 3/4 socket with a 3/4 to 1/2 in adapter on my 1/2 inch ratchet and broke it)... . start looking for this socket cause it's to very hard to find (axle nut TQ=175 ft-lbs). Edit: A 6 point will work but the 12 pt seems to fit better. For some reason I had to turn the socket to fit only one way... I don't know why but it had to be oriented in one direction to slip on. NAPA had the socket for about $30. It is a Hard-To-Find size so start looking.



Dave

I got my socket at Tractor supply for like $13, figured it was really on a one time use type of deal, so no need to spend big bucks on a name brand. 1-11/16ths 12pt did the trick.



Chris

 

[JPulliam]

1-11/16 is correct. I broke a 1/2" breaker bar using the jack trick, so you may want to invest in a 3/4" drive. My IR impact busted it loose, though.