Hubs, Bearing, U joints ??

[MAshley]

#@$%!So while returning from a 1,000 mile trip I heard a clicking sound. I ended up jacking up the front end and noticed a little bit of movement from flexing top and bottom of the tire, and I think while jacking it up I noticed the tire move a little once the weight was off of the tire. Mind you this movement wasn’t a lot but, its defiantly there. More on the passenger side then the drivers for comparison. Also It appears my driver side U joint is shot. So a few Questions for the group.



Truck is a 06 DRW, 6 speed with 92,000 miles. Used to haul around a bumper pull trailer for the company typically truck pulled heavy around 24K #’s GCVW Mostly highway some off-road on construction sites. Completely stock except a exhaust brake.



I have done some searching and have a few Questions especially with more options being available as time has passed from some of the first threads posted.





1. Do you think my front hub bearings are failing?

a. Do new bearings have any movement? I assume the clicking sound is the U joint and not the bearing

2. It seems now is a good time for a front hub lock out kit…Maybe

a. It appears there are 3 companies EMS, Dynatrac, and another … Anyone else?

b. Looks like it would take about 80 to 100K mile to break even on the 1 MPG savings… But I do gain real 2wd, and 2wd Lo

c. Will I have to do any maintenance if I go to a hub kit? Over what stock requires?



In regards to the U joints …. Stock , Sealed, greased? Seems like everyone here has had issues with all of them… My stock ones went 92K miles… kind of hard to beat … but then again my rear drive shaft was changed at 26k… lol



In closing I’m not rich, and I don’t want to waste money … business is closed so I can park the truck, but I also want to make an informed decision and not regreat something latter down the road.



Thank you

Dave

 

[rbattelle]

Why do you suspect the wheel movement was the hub? I mean, it's usually the ball joints, and some small movement is acceptable. The only correct way to tell is with a dial indicator.

The clicking you describe is almost certainly a universal joint. Personally, I prefer the Precision greasables.

I'm not sure where you're located, but if it's an area where they salt the roads you may have a difficult time removing the hubs. So difficult, in fact, that you may ruin them in the process. Keep that in mind.

I can't comment on the lockout kits... I don't have one.

Ryan

 

[mrtrombley]

Dave, I originally had both front wheel bearings replaced at around 36K, they were done under warranty and the dealer replaced both front u-joints at the same time. No problems since then until last month. I took the truck in for service at about 123K and had to have the left front u-joint replaced again. It had started doing that clacking noise like you described. They just replaced it with an OEM type, I wish I had thought ahead and asked for a greaseable one. On the other hand, I did get quite a few miles out of it. Also, my son had a '04 2wd 3500. His front left wheel bearing went out at around 92K. He traded it at 115K with no other problems. My mistake was not taking his, he could get upwards of 24-25 mpg with his cummins empty and around 12 pulling a load similar to mine while I only got 8-9.

While at the dealership I asked about putting lock out hubs on mine. He recommended not. I'm sure others on here can give you better info, but he said they wouldn't make that much difference in mileage and that it was good for all the parts to be moving so that they would stay oiled. I'm not a mechanic so I can't argue either point.

 

[steved]

I can't speak for the 3rd gens, but the two 2nd gens I've had experience with had one bearing fail at 160k and the other truck is still going at 290k. FWIW, the bearings on my 04. 5 had some play, even at almost zero miles and the dealer said it was acceptable. Add to that the play in the balljoints... which you may consider repalcing if you are going to be in there.

I installed the lockouts... it makes a noticeable improvement in driveability. There is ZERO maintenance with an OE hub, as they are a "sealed" unit... locking hubs require periodic inspection and repacking with fresh grease, I think they recommend every 50k? I ran mine 125k before puling them apart for balljoints... found a failed seal on the spindle, everything else was good.

I have greaseable Precision axle joints, and greaseable NeapCo drive shaft joints... have had no issues with either. While some think the sealed joint is "stronger", it is a matter of if you'll ever approach the failing strength... I run my trucks pretty hard, and have never lost a u-joint to catastrophic failure due to a strength issue. I would rather have the peace of mind knowing I have sufficient grease in the caps.

 

[Jeremiah]

Replaced all three u-joints (two of 'em were gone) plus the carrier bearing at 100,000. Also replaced both front wheel bearings now rather than later, and also uppers and lowers to try and fix a slight pull to the right. Dealer said the front end was in spec. Front end shop said he couldn't align the front end with BJs like they were. Shop still has the truck, so can't report much else.

 

[Motorhead]

Quote:
1. Do you think my front hub bearings are failing?
a. Do new bearings have any movement? I assume the clicking sound is the U joint and not the bearing
2. It seems now is a good time for a front hub lock out kit…Maybe
a. It appears there are 3 companies EMS, Dynatrac, and another … Anyone else?
b. Looks like it would take about 80 to 100K mile to break even on the 1 MPG savings… But I do gain real 2wd, and 2wd Lo
c. Will I have to do any maintenance if I go to a hub kit? Over what stock requires?

MY $0. 02:
1. If they are not failing, the chance that they will soon need service seems likely.
a. I don't know
2. YES! If you plan on "Driving out" the truck, in other words keeping it until it gets too costly to keep up, I would certainly do this. The hubs keep the front U joints, R&P, front driveline from turning unless you need it.
a. I used an EMS kit because of cost. The hubs stick out further than dynatrack. I had to cut both of the EMS stub axels on the lock-out hub end because they rubbed the inside of the hub. Would I buy another EMS hub kit? Yes and NO. Yess because of the cost. NO because they didn't tell you that you might have clearance issues with the lock hub. AND, they gave me some bull story that they wanted my input on re-doing their lousy instructions... . NEVER HAPPENED!
b:Towing, it might take you that long to realize the payback as the truck seems not to improve much on the towing MPG with or without thwe hubs.
The absolute greatest benefit to the hubs in my opinion is the 2wd LOW range feature. I just used mine today to back a trailer. It also makes the steering lighter feeling when the hubs are locked out.
c: The lockout hubs have a much better bearing set-up. Their is more distance BETWEEN the bearings. That will put less leverage-load action on the bearings. You buy a hub socket and it is easy then to remove the hubs to grease. They also use a tapered, Timken style bearing. Much heavier in my opinion.

All in all, I feel that this was one of the best things I did for my truck.

See pictures: https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ions/212703-ems-free-spin-hubs-installed.html

 

[rscurtis]

I installed the Dynatrac system on my '03. There were no quality issues. The third manufacturer you're looking for is Spyntec.