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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) huge oil leak

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Garnet Red paint code

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Describe "The Drone"

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:( i was very easy on my truck the day bfore and day of this occurance, i am leaking large amounts of oil. i can see it steadially drip from the front passenger side of the oil pan, but its splashed all over the front and passenger side of the motor. I have been trying to locate this leak but the oil is just everywhere. my thoughts are a head gasket or is it possible for a crank seal to sling that much oil? andthing else on the front of the motor that i'm not thinking about? i also heard/felt a strange click about ½ hour before i stoped and saw the leak, but i dont know if it was some noise coming from the big truck beside me at the time. I really need help on this, im at 99,456 miles and its not stock. think i can get away with a warrenty claim? or should i not even waste my time or even worse, my money. Help quick
 
It's probably a KDP failure. Here is what it takes to fix it: http://www.flex.net/~triplem/new/dowelpin.htm



You will have to remove the fan mount to tell for sure. The warrantee on the engine is 100K miles or five years. Even if the warrantee was still in force I don't think you would have a chance with the evidence of engine fueling mods.
 
ok, i was unaware of the warrenty expiration, i have not had the kdp fixed yet, but the truck runs fine, i heard that the kdp would really be a noticable issue. So i guess by reading whats in Joe G's link it looks like it could be the KDP and i might have just lucked out in the gears.
 
yep, i found it, it was the timing case cracking from the KDP. looks like i have my work cut out for me this week. Thanks for the help. i wish i had a picture to show you, the hole is about an inch square
 
Those of you who have not taken care of the KDP threat email me at -- email address removed -- for instructions on how to do it.
 
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Well, I'll probably get beat up on this, but IF the only damage seen is a clean hole knocked in the case, with NO accompanying cracks to the flange and gasket area, I'd VERY carefully and thoroughly clean the area around the crack, and cut some window screen to use as a patch - maybe several thicknesses, and use JB Weld to sandwich them together and secure them over the hole.



Naturally, if there IS a crack to the gasket area, all bets are off. And, odds are the dowel pin itself was either ejected thru the hole, or has settled in the bottom of the pan, where it will do no further harm - might even come out with an oil change...
 
your kidding me right gary? i mean, maybe... as a temp fix, but i do have a vehicle to get me around, but i really do miss my truck... anyone have an aluminum welder ;-)
 
JB Weld is NOT a good idea. The gear case has to support the weight of the P7100 injection pump. That is not a light weight item. A lot of the strength to support it is the rim of the gear case which has a chunk knocked out of it. Some people have got away with patching, but I don't think it's worth the gamble. Joe Donnelly has reported some failures like that if I remember correctly.
 
HotRodCummins12v said:
your kidding me right gary? i mean, maybe... as a temp fix, but i do have a vehicle to get me around, but i really do miss my truck... anyone have an aluminum welder ;-)



Well, again, if it's a clean hole with no radiating cracks, a good welder CAN repair it for you - lots cheaper than a new one!



Like I said, I knew I'd get some flashback - and it's harder when you can't actually SEE the exact break and location...



Anyway, good luck...
 
Check ebay for a timing case housing. Search "Cummins Turbo in the 25 dollar range - place in ARkansaw that typically dismantles CTD.

I thought I saw one from either a 94 or 99.



Place called Hartman's I believe.



Cheers,
 
The new replacment timing case is different because of the KDP. It has a stepped hole to prevent the KDP from falling out. So putting another old case in place of a busted one is not a good idea.
 
Or just perform the KDP fix on the used case by staking or set screwing the dowel pin and you can be going back together for less than 50. 00. You're correct that if money is no object to buy the latest and greatest but Cummins should be offering these cases for no charge as it was a design / manufacturing flaw that is allowing this damage to occur in my opinion.



Much like Dodge should be giving all of us new fuel modules, throttle cables, door edge window moldings, free repaints, free rebuilt NV4500's when the fifth gear nut backs off... Oo.



Cheers,
 
You can remove the gear on the cam shaft and replacee it after fix. This will keep you from having to remove the cam. You will need to heat the gear to remove and to replace.

Gary, I have read a lot of your post, that one was really stupid!!!

The only way to fix this is a new case, just buy it from Cummins and do the work.



John
 
From what I have read on these forums there have been problems caused by removing the gear. I don't think anyone is doing that anymore. Heating it to put it back can result in breaking the gear.
 
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