Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Killed the Cummins 12 valve

[GROBBINS]

Would it be foolish for me to put in a quality flexplate and TC without updating my original transmission? I don't tow with it anymore, so it gets minimal heavy use. But for the sake of the next owner and reliability, I'd like to be proactive while it's in the shop.

 

[BigPapa]

Only you can make that call. Right now, you've GOT to do the TC and flex plate, transmission's got to come out. You'll be out the extra to go through the transmission and a possible rebuild. If all you do now is the TC and flex plate and the transmission goes out in a year, then you'll be out the labor to pull it and put it back in if it goes out.

Basically, if the transmission's working now, you're gambling on the labor to pull the transmission again for a build.

I wouldn't worry about a future owner unless you're going to gift it to a friend or family member.

 

[bcbender]

If all you do now is the TC and flex plate and the transmission goes out in a year, then you'll be out the labor to pull it and put it back in.

And that's if it doesn't damage the TC when the trans goes out... Im in the camp of if you know its needing attention and its out, and you're gonna keep it, then consider what options you have to take care of it.

 

[Tuesdak]

All for a pretty rusty truck too!

These kinds of expensive repairs do need a second look to make sure the vehicle is worth it.

What shape is the truck really in? Interior condition? How much rust and frame condition? Any other expensive repairs, like the front end, being put off? Maybe it's used up and not worth an expensive repair. Hope I am wrong and it's not good money chasing after bad. As indicated you might get by with say a 1/2 ton pickup or other vehicle?

 

[GROBBINS]

The truck is not a show queen but it has always received better than OEM parts. I've always tried to keep the drive train in optimal condition. The suspension and front end have been updated over the years. I even have a Thuren Trac bar installed with newer steering components. The interior is an 8 out of 10, but the truck has lived in the salt belt all its life. In the last 8 years, I've been able to not have to drive it on the snowy, salty roads to minimize the corrosion. It needs rockers and the doors are tired. I can easily get by with a half ton truck..... with an 8ft box of course! I guess like Big Papa stated, only myself can make the call. As always, thank you for the time and wisdom.

 

[Ozymandias]

Get a standard cheap converter then and a basic flywheel. It will do the job for what you use the truck.

No need to put Premium in it if Regular does.

 

[Tuesdak]

standard cheap converter

Frugal. Not Cheap. You can have no end of problems with a bad or poorly rebuilt converter. Overheating, vibration, poor performance, TC slipping or failing to release, failure that takes the trans with it... Don't need performance but just good quality from a trusted source.

The trans has to come out to get a complete parts list. Further check the engine for possible damage from the sudden stop.

 

[GROBBINS]

Happy Sunday! Trans is out. Bad flexplate, torque convertor, starter bendix, and broke a trans line on removal. Mechanic told me that it's not worth repairing. He won't put it back together or put in new parts. Says I'd be upside down in it. So, I'm questioning the future of this truck. Can I get a cheap flexplate and starter to be able to start the engine for someone to hear it run? I'll upload pictures of damage after church for you gents to view.

 

[Tuesdak]

Mechanic told me that it's not worth repairing.

Your call NOT HIS!

What is the quote for the parts and labor needed? If no quote you need to get it towed elsewhere. Runs and drives vs. cost of a new(er) vehicle may be worth it. Or it may be "used up" and time. We don't have pictures, miles, condition, etc. to help you evaluate it's condition.

If your going to sell it: just sell it "AS IS Where IS" without any additional money put in it.

If the mechanic hasn't started the engine to verify it wasn't damaged or at least barred it over a few times ... there is risk the repairs above are not all that's needed.

 

[GROBBINS]

Mechanic never quoted parts and labor. Just labor to remove and expose damage. ($500)
Mechanic also said that the housing between engine and trans should be replaced.
I shouldn’t have assumed that he’d do all the repairs. He was just interested in the disassembly.
I have the space and the ability to get it into my shop any put the bare minimal parts into it slowly as I find time. Still questioning the value though. I don’t want to throw good money after bad. Kind of a head-scratcher for me……

 

[BigPapa]

So, you need a flex plate, adapter plate, a TC, and a starter. Sounds like the tech owes you a transmission line. What year is your truck? You could source a flex plate, TC, and starter for @ $1,000 from Rockauto. Adapter plates are available used. If labor was $1,000, you couldn’t replace the truck for $2,000.

There’s really no reason there’s any more damage.

You need to find another shop.

 

[Ozymandias]

I second this.

 

[GROBBINS]

The truck has to come off their lift today to free up space. Thank you for giving my situation another look.

 

[Cummins12V98]

$500 to remove, $1,000 to re assemble. No brainer with $1,000 in parts. Get er dun. I don’t see a reason to replace the adapter plate if it’s simply scuffed up.

 

[GAmes]

I offered it up on the other forum but apparently a moderator saw it as a bid for a sale. I have a stock flexplate you can have for the cost of shipping. I know I'll never need it. If you happen to live in east TX I'll carry it to Crockett where I'll be fishing for a week.

 

[Ozymandias]

Bring her back on the road, it won't cost you an arm and a leg if you go the way @BigPapa has said.

 

[GROBBINS]

I offered it up on the other forum but apparently a moderator saw it as a bid for a sale. I have a stock flexplate you can have for the cost of shipping. I know I'll never need it. If you happen to live in east TX I'll carry it to Crockett where I'll be fishing for a week.

Wow, thank you for the generous offer GAmes. I'll let you know if I need you to ship to southern WI. I'm still evaluating the investment with addressing the transmission rebuild/replacement. I need to seriously consider the life of the trans while it's out. I've had a rebuilt trans from shift rite in my ebay cart for six or seven years ($3299). Of course it's gone up a thousand bucks since I originally saved it back then. As I stated earlier, the truck is rusty. I don't care much about the rust, considering the reliability I've had with it over the last 20 years. If I do the trans rebuild, then I'm definitely in it for the long haul. I might be like those Jeeps you see around without doors. But I'll be in a full size club cab dodge without doors.....that's cool, right? I'll try to get the starter freed up and the flexplate back on the crank to see if it still runs like usual and get back to you guys. Thanks

 

[JMcCoy]

The weak point of these tranmission turned out to be the low quality TC and low line pressure for the RPM ranges of the Cummins.
A mildly upgraded TC will do wonders. Have him throw it back in, then if you're a little mechanical, slap a shift kit in it to boost the line pressure, a GM style solenoid, and mechanical shift solenoid spring. You'll be good for another 70k.

Might as well have the mechanic throw in a rear main seal.

 

[BigPapa]

I wouldn't touch that seal. It looks fine.

 

[GAmes]

I wouldn't touch that seal. It looks fine.

I agree. If it ain't broke don't mess with it.