HVAC Removal with Pictures

[scbroder]

For the last month, I have not been able to control air flow between the floor and defrost. Therefore, I thought it was time to replace the defrost door (TSB 24-004-03). I decided to take a few pictures of the removal process. I have also included brief instructions. This was the first HVAC unit I have removed, it took about 8 hours to remove, repair, and replace using hand tools.



1. Evacuate AC system.

2. Drain two or three gallons of antifreeze from the radiator.

3. Disconnect battery ground cables.

4. Disconnect heater hoses from heater core. Tape over the heater core tubes to prevent leaks during HVAC removal.

5. Loosen accumulator mounting bolts and disconnect evaporator lines using disconnect tool. Tape over tubes and line openings to prevent contamination and leaks during removal.

6. Remove nuts from the two HVAC studs.

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7. Remove center console, I choose to remove shift lever also. If you do not have a center console then a small trim panel will need to be removed.

8. Remove center IP bolts.

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9. Remove left and right a-pillar trim, side covers, and cowl trip panels.

10. On left side, remove the knee blocker trim panel and trim panel around the park brake release handle.

11. Disconnect park brake release rod.

12. Remove the three left IP attachment bolts.

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13. Remove the three right IP attachment bolts.

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14. Disconnect electrical and radio antenna wire connectors behind right cowl trim panel.

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15. Remove bolt attaching metal strap to HVAC housing (under glove box)

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16. Remove top IP cover. First pry up on the back of the panel to disconnect rear clips. Then pull panel back to unsnap front clips.

17. Remove 4 small screws and 2 bolts attaching the upper IP to body.

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18. Remove the bracket holding the diagnostics port and hood release lever.

19. Remove 4 nuts attaching steering column. Lower steering column until the steering wheel rests on the driver’s seat. Be sure to watch the brake switch as it could be damaged.

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20. Remove both column support bolts above steering column.

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[scbroder]

21. Pull IP back.

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22. Remove lower HVAC housing mounting bolt.

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23. Remove two nuts on upper HVAC mounting studs.

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24. Remove the HVAC unit.

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25. Disassembly HVAC unit and replace any broken components.

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[scbroder]

During disassembly I found just what I was looking for, a broken defrost door.

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The door broke after the actuator stop broke on the lower HVAC housing.

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The new lower housing has a more durable stop.

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I also choose to replace the recirculation door even thought it was not yet broken, probably just a matter of time. The recirculation door is now serviced as an assembly. You get the housing, door, actuator adapter, and actuator.

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No motor actuator stops on the old recirculation housing.

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New recirculation housing has actuator stops.

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New parts list:

5127758AA – Lower HVAC housing - $43

5073964AA – Defrost door – $19

5019632AA – Coupling - $7

68004226AB – Recirculation housing w/ door and actuator- $20

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Lastly, here is a picture of the evaporator with the temp sensor in the factory location.

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[byoslandry]

HVAC Door

Scbroder

That looks like a nightmare to do. Thanks for the pictures and the procedure.

Looks like a problem that DC fixed with new parts.

Thanks again

Byron

Hope you don't have any dashboard rattles.

 

[Whiskey]

Thank ever so much for the superb detailed post, I'm sure it will answer & help much fellow members. .

whiskey

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

scbroder that's a great post/photo workup. This would be worth publishing in the TDR magazine IMO. They did an article recently about the HVAC in the 2nd Gen.



Vaughn

 

[WUnderwood]

Thank ever so much for the superb detailed post, I'm sure it will answer & help much fellow members. .



whiskey

absolutely! thanks a lot

 

[Jaysyl]

That was a very nice post, thanks for taking the time to post pictures. I have a question, in the 3rd picture in your red circle is that rust on the metal?

 

[Kry226]

This is exactly what they did to my truck late last week. Now I know and can actually see what they did. Hopefully this is a permanent fix. Thanks for the write-up!

 

[Prairie Dog]

I have to thank you too. Very well done write up!



Scotty

 

[EErmert]

Nice, very nice! Did D/C make you pay for the parts? This step by step list will go into my CTD log and maintance book, Thanks for the pictures and ease of use...

Eric

 

[rbattelle]

Wow, awesome writeup.



Ryan

 

[scbroder]

Thanks for the positive response. I hope it helps other members out there who may experience the same issue. It really wasn't that bad of a job, just time consuming. The worst part of the entire process was taking the truck in to have the A/C system evacuated and recharged.

... Hope you don't have any dashboard rattles.

No rattles yet. The good thing is I had no extra parts when I got done!

... in the 3rd picture in your red circle is that rust on the metal?

Yes, the structural component of the IP is bare metal and has some red surface rust. You can see this is later photos also.

... Did D/C make you pay for the parts?...

Eric

Yes, the truck is well out of warranty, so I purchased the parts.

 

[Spooled-up]

How long did it take you from start to finish minus the evac and recharge of the A/C?

 

[scbroder]

How long did it take you from start to finish minus the evac and recharge of the A/C?

It took about 8 hours. However, I spent a little extra taking pictures, studying how the HVAC system works, and the difference between the old and new parts. I also tested the unit by placing it in the passenger floor, plugging it into the truck and cycling it through all positions before reinstalling it. I just wanted to make sure everything operated properly before I spent hours reinstalling it.

 

[Burner]

Wow... . what a great write-up and post. Thank you.

 

[GCroyle]

Impressive post and detailed work, that took patience.

 

[CKimball]

DUDE... I bow to you... . probably ranks in the UPPEr top ten of informative posts I have read in the last three years... . thank you as I am going to tackle it now my self as it appears to be vdry straight forward... . I very impressed that it can be done by not having to remove the dash completely... thanks again

cameron

 

[HLewallen]

Posts like this are an awesome contribution. They actually raise the mechanical capabilities of many (myself included) just by reading them - I wouldn't hesitate to tackle this myself if out of warranty. The photos are first rate and really are what make it so effective. I second the "should be published in TDR" motion. Heck - I would consider doing this myself even if still in warranty just to keep the flying monkeys out of my truck.

 

[KBennett]

Great post!



I may need to do this on a 2nd Gen this weekend :{

Hopefully it is a vacuum problem.