HVAC Removal with Pictures

[obie1]

Most definitely a required post to the TDR magazine. Great job and meticulous work. Thanks

 

[LesStallings]

scbroder- In your last picture you show the temp sensor in the factory location. Would this be a good time to relocate the sensor to the "new and improved" location??



Does anyone know the new position? I'm thinking that I could kill two birds with one stone, fixing the broken doors and reducing the tendency for evaporator freeze up.



Thanks!

 

[scbroder]

... Would this be a good time to relocate the sensor to the "new and improved" location??

This would be a perfect time to relocate the temp sensor, you're right there. I did not relocate mine because I was unable to determine where the "new and improved" location was. Talked to a couple of dealerships but they could not find anything regarding temp sensor relocation.

 

[LesStallings]

While I was at the dealership yesterday, I asked the Service Manager about the relocation. He said that it has not worked on any of the ones they have done. The units still would freeze up (given the right conditions). I don't know if the "they have done" is the dealership or DC.



While getting the parts for the repairs, they had everything in stock but the coupling. The parts guy said they have been stocking most of the stuff, since they have been doing a few of the repairs every month since summer began.



Just for kicks I asked the Service Manager what the cost would be to have the dealership do the repairs and he said the book called for 7. 5 hours, so with parts and tax, I would be out around $1,000. I told him that if I got stuck I’d bring the truck in to finish the job. The Service Manger, who knows I do a lot of my own work, said he doubted I’d be back. I take that as a vote of confidence!



By the way, if the parts counter says the parts are around $150, they are charging list price. Under $100 is a reasonable discount.

 

[Whiskey]

Well I wonder if this willbe published in or magizine????
whiskey

 

[JHardwick]

Heading into winter with floor/defrost acting the same ... ... ... ... . I was fixin to take it to the dealer, but this looks doable



PS Already been "fixed" by the dealer 2 maybe 3 times ... .....

 

[SKing]

Scbroder I just wanted to thank you for the work you did and took the time to share with others. I feel as if I should pay you something since I am now going to save alot of money doing this repair myself. . I love to have things to do and this will be fun to fix since you have done the hard part and givin direction. Your new name is Profesor Scbroder the PHD of HVAC repair :-laf

 

[kleinschmin]

Thank you, I found it very informative as my recirculation door broke last week.

 

[bighammer]

I just fell victim to this defect. I'm down in Ann Arbor because my mom was just diagnosed with cancer. While on the way to the hospital, my defroster wouldn't work. I had floor output no matter where I put the dial. I had driven thru a bunch of rain the night before and my frozen windows wouldn't budge either. (I had to crack the slider and opened the door a few times) #@$%! I really don't need this right now because it's still too stinkin' cold to mess with.

I did like the improvised ductwork (vaccuum hose or dryer vent? Can't remember. ) that another member did to keep going until repairs could be made. :-laf Might have to do me some'mm like 'dat.

 

[bighammer]

So the replacement of the lower housing is only for the stops?

 

[J.Becker]

Air conditioning vent problem

I own a 2004. 5 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with the 5. 9 Cummins of course.

Ocasionaly the HVAC will get stuck in the dash vent position but that does not happen often. I am having a constant problem while running the air condtioner. When the A/C is on, the driver side dash vents on each side of the steering wheel will blow 50 degree air and the passenger dash vents will be 20 to 30 degrees warmer. I just read through the info from scbroder and it sounds like I have a similar problem. Will I have to remove the entire dash to repair a broken actuator or a broken door? Is it necessary to evacuate the freon from the system to do this repair?

This is my first time on this web sight because my truck has been so dependable. Any info would be appreciated.

from J. Becker

 

[MFranz]

Great thread!Thanks for taking the time to detail the work you did. I'm afraid that I may be using this info in the near future. My blower motor on my new 2006 makes a hell of a racket at times. I thought it was just the fan motor but after reading this post I think it's a lot more involved. Anyone else have this issue recently?



Thanks,Mike

 

[BLauth]

Need help, sometimes blower works sometimes not. also have trouble getting air out of defroster. mechanic wants $900. 00. can anyone give advice? thanks

 

[bigblock_doc]

Thank you for the priceless info. Been a mechanic for 40 years, always stayed away

from dash work, like heater cores and what not. Pictures are very clear, not like in the

manuals. Gotta do this before winter. Had a couple of cold rainy days while in WI. two

weeks ago and defrost came out the vents. Hard to clear the windshield.

Did you move the AC temp to a different localtion? I'm having trouble with evap.

freeze up. No air moves, turn off AC for a couple of minutes, then works OK for

a while or works great for the whole day.

Thanks again, Doc

734-341-0507

 

[kuss]

Just finished this job yesterday on my 2006 Mega. I knew I had a broken recirc door, but went ahead and pulled the whole HVAC system out and replaced blend and mode 1 doors as well (all HeaterTreater). Also cut out "the screen" on the top of the unit. All in all, MUCH better air flow and great instructions here.

A couple of thoughts while they're fresh:

1. The large dash bolts on my truck were 1/2". Everything else is either 10mm or 8mm. I would highly recommend having a regular socket, deep socket, and ratcheting box wrench in both 8mm and 10mm. A "stubby" socket driver is helpful. Also a cordless impact driver of some type will save the forearms. And a great work light, cordless fluorscent would be ideal. I still work with the old corded incandescent bulb and that little bugger gets hot and close when you're under the dash!

2. I drained almost 5 gallons from my radiator. Did not know it would be that much. A nice clean 5 gal bucket does nicely.

3. Once the dash is free, be GENTLE pulling it free. If it feels hung up on something it is! Probably either on a wire bundle you forgot to disconnect or a small PLASTIC piece that will snap under pressure. It's all plastic and will break (that's why you're doing this in the first place). Besides the radio wiring harnesses at the passenger side kick panel, don't forget to check all the aftermarket wires you have run to the dash! For me this included the trailer brake controller, the Jake brake, and the rear sliding window power switch!

4. The "order" of the original writeup is important. Don't skip around or you will be undoing and redoing.

5. The cab side of this job is pretty straight forward. I had most of my &*($ times under the hood. I had a helluva time disconnecting one of the spring-loaded connectors on my accumulator. 7 years connected and that thing did not want to disconnect. Even tried mild heat and penetrating oil. Don't know why it finally came off after several hours. My stubborn beat it's stubborn, but I didn't do anything different than I had done all along. Another note on the evaporator connections, they have a plastic safety lock that slides over the connection. It has plastic hooks on either side that need to be pulled back and locked out of the way before the lock slides off. Then use your disconnect tool (the donut) wrapped around the tube behind the fitting (firewall side of the fitting) and pull it towards the front of the truck to disconnect. There are only two of these fittings and they are different sizes.

6. At least on my truck, I had to remove the coolant overflow tank. (3) 8mm bolts, two on the firewall and one on the passenger side inner fender just behind the battery under a mess of wires. Also disconnect the rubber hose (pulls off). It was the only way I could get to one of the 10mm nuts that holds a threaded stud coming through the firewall from the HVAC system. I could have maybe got a wrench back there without removing the overflow tank, but the nut had sucked back into the rubber insulation on the firewall and I needed a straight shot at it.

7. A-Pillars: each one on my truck has two little oval tabs that you can pick open with a dental pick. This allows access to a 10mm bolt (deep socket)

8. Before you disconnect the battery: If you have power seats, make sure the driver seat is far enough forward to hold the steering wheel when that's lowered down.

-kuss

 

[Tuesdak]

This thread featured in the FAQ thread needs it's pictures fixed. Or update the FAQ thread with a working picture HVAC removal thread?
Got here from here:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/251964-3rd-Generation-NO-Engine-transmission-FAQ-s

Pics want to go here:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage. php?&photoid=26309&width=2

 

[p-Bar]

No pics bad URL

 

[Bill Stockard]

There is a similar article with fewer photos in TDR Issue 55, pages 42 and 43. While the accompanying photos aren't step by step, you might find it helpful. Issue 55 is available in digital form if you cannot find a copy.

Bill

 

[hammersley]

what happened to the illustrations on this?

 

[J.Becker]

I have a 2004.5 Ram 2500 4X4 Longbed . I had a problem with the A/C cooling the drivers side vents while the passenger side was 20 to 30 degrees warmer. Recharging the A/C unit corrected this problem. I still have issues changing the air flow to the dash or floor but I have not torn the dash apart yet to correct this. I live in an area with mild winters so the A/C cooling was my biggest concern.