Here's some tips, Dennis. The oil line fitting on top of the turbo has two o-rings in it. DO NOT LOSE THEM. The fitting will require a 17mm open-end wrench on the middle section, to hold it in place, while you use a 19mm wrench to break loose the oil line connection. Then you can remove the fitting to use on the new turbo. All the clamps I've found on the intake system of these trucks take an 11mm deep well socket (something you should keep with you in the truck at all times)The nuts on the turbo mounting bolts at the exhaust manifold flange can be a bear to break loose. Tap the free wrench end with a mallet, that'll break 'em loose.
When installing the new turbo, after running the nuts home on the mounting bolts, be very careful to line up the oil return line flange with the bottom flange on the turbo. The gasket can shift, a SMALL dab of Permatex blue will help hold it in place, but will make the whole process longer by 5 minutes as you wait for it to "tack". If the turbo halves are even slightly off in relation to each other, the oil return flange will not line up properly. This is critical, as these bolts are small, and strip out easy, or crossthread. If it's "off", you'll have to "clock" the turbo. It's easy to do. The bolts on the face of the exhaust housing that clamp down the two half moon clips will have to be loosened. (not removed!) then you can rotate the center section in relation to the exhaust housing. After the flange lines up, the outlet of the intake section on the turbo may not line up with the tube to the intercooler. So... a big pair of channelocks on the clamp behind the intake part of the turbo, squeeze the ring tabs together, without removing the ring, and youll be able to rotate the intake housing.
Of course, the 35 should be shipped to you perfectly in alignment, but I've never had any turbo that was, and I've changed a bunch of 'em ! If you get stuck, call me, I'll walk you through it.