Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) HX-40 and injectors

[cluckmaster]

ok- couple of questions. Looking at a used Piers HX-40 w/ about 65,000 mi. Supposed to be in good shape. How long can I expect a turbo w/ those miles to last? Also, it's off an '01 HO. Is that compatible w/ my 97 12 valve?



Also looking at injectors on a budget. I see 370s for about $300 in a couple of places, but I've heard some say they decrease mileage and are too much for most applications. Would I be better off w/ 330s or 300s?



97 2500 SLT 4x4 auto/ 252k mi/ #8 plate/ straight piped/ lukes linked/ 35" Claws/ 3GSK and DiProcol gauges on the way!!!

 

[TJarecke]

How long a turbo lasts depends on the situation it is put in and the driver on the go pedal. There are a lot of posts here about hx40s if you do a search. They used to be pretty popular but have kind of been pushed aside by S300 variants such as B-1s, HTB series, Phat shafts, etc. because these newer turbos seem to be holding up better. Not to say the hx40 is a bad turbo, many have had good luck with them. You will have to upgrade to 4 inch exhaust with an hx40 downpipe.



As for the 370s, I am not sure on the milage (depends on the driver) but many 12v'ers run them. They make good power on a budget. If you are getting an upgraded turbo I think you will be fine on the egts, especally with the plate you have, but your trans will not like them. You can also search old posts and find more reading than you ever want to do.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

I bought my PDR HX40 about 4 years ago. When I bought it Piers himself told me it would be a good idea and very cheap insurance to send it back to him after XXXXXXXXXXXX amount of miles. Can't remember the amount, but anyways they will freshen it up with new seals and bushings/bearings for a fraction of a new turbo. As for how long it will last... ... . who knows! I have a auto in my 98 12v and have not messed at all with the wastegate and have left it around the 36 psi mark and have only barked it a few times. How long will mine last? No clue. But if you are getting a good deal on it pick it up and have it freshened up if you can afford it. The 370's and #10 plate and 191 dv are way to much fuel for my HX40.

 

[bmoeller]

The 370's and #10 plate and 191 dv are way to much fuel for my HX40.

Not to much for the street with my PDR40, but the EGTs are an issue towing. It is a great combo otherwise. It will also depend on where the plate is sitting. Mine is full forward, so sliding it back for towing might be enough to lower the EGTs to safe levels for towing. It also depends on how fast you want to tow. At 55mph, EGTs aren't awful bad, but if you want to run 70mph, don't even think about it, unless it is under 50* ambient temp.



I had 370s before the DDP 4 injectors. They make more power at about the same EGT levels as the 370s. To run my setup on the street, and be able to control the EGTs (meaning not having to babysit it and back out when needed), you need to advance the timing on the fuel injection pump. It dropped my temps enough, EGTs aren't a problem running WOT on the road if I want.



The PDR HX40 is a great turbo, but it likes a lot of fuel to light it up well. Probably over 60k miles on mine, and it still feels like new.



When/If you get that used turbo, make sure to spin the wheels by hand, and make sure there is NO wheel to housing contact. I bought a used HTT turbo, but it needs to be rebuilt. Seller said he'd take care of it, but I STILL haven't gotten it sent in. :{ Been to busy.



I can tell you, too, that with my setup (or with the 370s), if you stomp the go pedal, it WILL leave a big black cloud, but does clear up pretty good once the turbo lights.



If your transmission is stock, plan on a new one in about 5-6 months. That is all my stocker lasted after the 370s went in. Can't say I didn't warn you. :-laf

 

[cluckmaster]

Yeah, stock transmission, but I've talked to Dave at Goerends. Here's the thing. My head's off right now and I'm pulling the cam out this weekend (broken cam gear). This morning I was convinced I was going to pick up a set of 370s and maybe that used HX-40. Then today I was calling around about cams (dealer wants $865) and got to talking to a fellow out of Texas that grinds custom cams and then he had me call up a fellow out of Oklahoma that does a lot of head work. They said a cam and street port job along with a five angle valve job would be a better route and would flow more air than the HX-40. Already had the head decked and magnafluxed locally, and I'm thinking about sending the head out. I can always throw the injectors in later. Any thoughts?

 

[bmoeller]

Here's a flow chart to look at-



http://piersdiesel.com/DodgePortedHead.htm



A ported head and cam is all well and good, but the stock turbo with its 'gated 12cm2 turbine housing is still a choking point. Need a larger housing, at bare minimum. Both the porting and cam will definanty help spoolup.



Since you are adding power, and the head is already off, I'd suggest having the head o-ringed (use head studs, not the stock bolts) and have the 60# valve springs installed. Won't have to do it later when you want more power.



I really don't see that a 5 angle valve job will do a whole lot.

 

[cluckmaster]

Well, there's two ways to go here. I can't afford everything at once, and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna throw a Greg Hogue cam in while I've got the cam out. Soooo... . should I throw the cam in and try to pick up that used turbo, and plan on doing head work at a later date, or... . throw the cam in and get the head work done now, then look for a turbo later? Also, am I even going to see any difference if I don't get some injectors to get the fuel flowing? Thanks!



bmoeller- Am planning on o-ringing the head if I send it off for the street port job, but there aren't any local shops that are set up to o-ring this head, and I don't want to spend $100 each way shipping for just that. I'm in Delaware, so if anyone knows of a good shop nearby, please let me know. Thanks again!



97 2500 SLT 4x4 auto/ 252k mi/ #8 plate/ straight piped/ lukes linked/ 35" Claws/ 3GSK and DiProcol gauges on the way!!!

 

[Matthug]

I'd get the turbo, with a cam your EGT's will be lower so the turbo will support more HP. An HX40 is good for 450-500 RWHP generally.

 

[bmoeller]

Matt, it'll do 450, maybe 500, but can't tow with it at that power level. I'm 24rwhp shy of 400, and have to really watch the EGTs, if I want to run at interstate speeds (towing). 55 and under, not as big of a problem.



Duck-



I'd get ahold of someone at Mass Diesel or can't remember if Autowerks is out your way as well. They might be able to fix you up on a head.



Since you don't have $$$$ for all at once, I'd do the head and cam first, since everything is all apart already. Without more fuel, I think the you'll really hate the spolup on the 40, even with the head work and cam. The cam needs done regardless, and I wouldn't want to pull the head twice, so that is the way I would want to go. Do the turbo and more fuel as funds allow.



The PDR HX40s aren't that hard to find around here. Mine will be available later this summer. It will be for sale once I get a bigger one (or twins).

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Duck, I'd go along with what bmoeller says, spend the money you have on internal stuff and take care of the rest later. I do have to ask, how much do you know about Hogue cams? I have never heard of them. I would make sure you got a cam that is properly engineered and tested (not to say Hogue's aren't). There are some proven cams available, such as Piers Diesel, Diesel Dynamics, and Formula1 (Don M) Helix series cams. Be sure the cam uses a bolt-on versus press-on cam gear.



Vaughn

 

[cluckmaster]

Vaughn- I checked those companies out and was looking at the Piers, but then stumbled into this guy's stuff in the TDR competition forum while searching camshafts. The grinding is done by a company called Bullett Cams, and Greg Hogue is the guy who drives that 8 second tube chassis Cummins powered Dodge. Talked to him on the phone for awhile and he seems to really know his stuff, and he's offering a great deal. I noticed in your sig that you did your own port job. My dad has a die grinder and we were wondering how difficult it is or if there's a template out there.

I'll call Mass Diesel tomorrow- quite a hike to get up there, but, I'll do what I have to. Haha. Any good shops in Maryland, PA, Jersey, or Virginia? Thanks!

 

[cluckmaster]

Ok- ordered the cam from Greg. And a head stud kit. Found a good shop up in PA called Diesel Performance that can o-ring the head, but may wait on that due to limited funds. I'm not making any boost anyway. Going to do some porting on the head at home- my Dad has a die grinder and Piers website has a few good pics that shows where to remove material. Also have a 3GSK on the way. This stuff is expensive

 

[R.ebel]

My HX-40 experience... I'm at about 530HP and at 6000 ft in elevation. Before switching to the B-1-2t turbo I'm running now, I had the misfortune of killing 2 HX-40's I'm sure the elevation played a role, for the same level of boost at higher altitude a turbo will have to spin faster = more stress.



I'd be afraid to take an HX-40 much past 475HP. JMHO