Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
It sure took long enough, but it's finally done. I'm sure glad I didn't try to swap it quickly on Friday, or I wouldn't have made it to Monterey for the weekend.
First... this is not something I suggest anybody try to do at home. Either do it at a local bombfest, or just let a shop do it. The whole reason for this is the G0dd@mn exhaust system. This was FAR worse than when I tried to install the exhaust system itself. That I could have done on my own with a Sawzall had I known better. This job was a major pain.
First, the downpipe was too long. They said they ship it that way to account for various installation types. Didn't matter that I had their system and they KNEW I had their system.
So I had a local shop cut it to the same length as the original. That was the first mistake. Turns out it needed to be 2-3" longer, but there was no way to know since it wouldn't even fit in place as long as it was. So I ended up going back and having them weld a 2" section onto it to make it long enough again.
Bolting the turbo up was easy enough, except for losing one of the 3/8" nuts. **** thing isn't magnetic, so I couldn't use a magnet, and my grabber tool wouldn't grab it because of the tight space it was in. I popped it out from below, only to have it go into another tight spot. Popped it out again and I think it went into the crossmember. I ended up buying a pack of nuts from OSH while I was having the exhaust shop lengthen the downpipe.
Once all that was done, mating the downpipe to the turbo was a complete and total PITA, mainly because I was doing it myself. If I'd had a helper under the truck to help lift and twist the pipe, it would have been far easier. It took at least two hours to get it connected, and I'm still not 100% certain the clamp is holding the pipe to the turbo completely.
Oh yeah, and the turbo outlet wasn't clocked properly. It should have been pointing nearly perpendicular to the ground, but it wasn't... they clocked it so it was 180 deg. from the entry into the exhaust housing. I had to contort the inlet pipe and loosen all those clamps to rotate it and coax it into position. It fit, but it was annoying, as the thing SHOULD have been clocked right to begin with.
Now, performance... first, it's quieter than my stock turbo at slower speeds, possibly because it isn't spinning nearly as fast. Now, cruising around town, I'm lucky to see 5 psi, whereas before 10 psi was the norm. There's definitely more lag, but the truck is so strong I don't really notice it. The worst part is that I get smoke with any throttle at all when there's no boost, whereas before, I'd only get it if I nailed it and boost wasn't up yet.
I don't see anymore peak boost than before... still around 30 psi. BUT, exhaust temps are WAAAAAY down from before. I could lay into it and only see 1100 deg. where I'd be well into the 1300's before. Boost still drops off noticeably above 2500, but that was the way it was before, too.
I won't be towing again until the weekend of May 6th, and then I won't be fully loaded... just taking the car and trailer down to Monterey for another autox, but not staying overnight.
At any rate, it's finally done. Gawd, what a pain. What should have taken two hours has taken a total of about eight.
Rob
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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate, 4. 10, USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, DD EZ, DD3 Injectors, HX-40, Southbend Clutch, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DD 4" Exhaust, US Gear Exhaust Brake, etc.
First... this is not something I suggest anybody try to do at home. Either do it at a local bombfest, or just let a shop do it. The whole reason for this is the G0dd@mn exhaust system. This was FAR worse than when I tried to install the exhaust system itself. That I could have done on my own with a Sawzall had I known better. This job was a major pain.
First, the downpipe was too long. They said they ship it that way to account for various installation types. Didn't matter that I had their system and they KNEW I had their system.
So I had a local shop cut it to the same length as the original. That was the first mistake. Turns out it needed to be 2-3" longer, but there was no way to know since it wouldn't even fit in place as long as it was. So I ended up going back and having them weld a 2" section onto it to make it long enough again.
Bolting the turbo up was easy enough, except for losing one of the 3/8" nuts. **** thing isn't magnetic, so I couldn't use a magnet, and my grabber tool wouldn't grab it because of the tight space it was in. I popped it out from below, only to have it go into another tight spot. Popped it out again and I think it went into the crossmember. I ended up buying a pack of nuts from OSH while I was having the exhaust shop lengthen the downpipe.
Once all that was done, mating the downpipe to the turbo was a complete and total PITA, mainly because I was doing it myself. If I'd had a helper under the truck to help lift and twist the pipe, it would have been far easier. It took at least two hours to get it connected, and I'm still not 100% certain the clamp is holding the pipe to the turbo completely.
Oh yeah, and the turbo outlet wasn't clocked properly. It should have been pointing nearly perpendicular to the ground, but it wasn't... they clocked it so it was 180 deg. from the entry into the exhaust housing. I had to contort the inlet pipe and loosen all those clamps to rotate it and coax it into position. It fit, but it was annoying, as the thing SHOULD have been clocked right to begin with.
Now, performance... first, it's quieter than my stock turbo at slower speeds, possibly because it isn't spinning nearly as fast. Now, cruising around town, I'm lucky to see 5 psi, whereas before 10 psi was the norm. There's definitely more lag, but the truck is so strong I don't really notice it. The worst part is that I get smoke with any throttle at all when there's no boost, whereas before, I'd only get it if I nailed it and boost wasn't up yet.
I don't see anymore peak boost than before... still around 30 psi. BUT, exhaust temps are WAAAAAY down from before. I could lay into it and only see 1100 deg. where I'd be well into the 1300's before. Boost still drops off noticeably above 2500, but that was the way it was before, too.
I won't be towing again until the weekend of May 6th, and then I won't be fully loaded... just taking the car and trailer down to Monterey for another autox, but not staying overnight.
At any rate, it's finally done. Gawd, what a pain. What should have taken two hours has taken a total of about eight.
Rob
------------------
2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate, 4. 10, USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, DD EZ, DD3 Injectors, HX-40, Southbend Clutch, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DD 4" Exhaust, US Gear Exhaust Brake, etc.
