HX-40 Part #

[SLang]

My local Holset dealer has good prices, but their knowledge is not the best. Does anone know the part number for the HX-40 that goes on our Rams? It should be on the box if you still have it.



EDIT: I would like the number for the non-wastegated turbo.



Thanks,

Scott

 

[Bob Wagner]

B4 you purchase the HX40

why not check out Piers Super Turbo&reg



www.piersdiesel.com



Its one hell of a sweet turbo





**Edit I like your interests too

 

[SLang]

Piers Turbo

It's a little small. I'll be changing fuel plates after I get the turbo and clutch.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Piers' super turbo flows like an HX-40 and spools 10x's better. Plus you don't have to go with a 4" DP if you don't want to... . like you do with the HX-40.

I am still weary of the HX-40 after hearing about so many failures... .



Matt - gotta love the 'twins'.

 

[SlyBones]

Not only can you use Piers Super Turbo with your existing 3" exhaust, but you can use it with an existing 12cm, or 14cm or 16cm housing you already have.



And if you have an exhaust brake, guess what, you get to keep that too.

 

[Forrest]

SLang,



HX40W - the W stands for the wastegated version.



http://www.holset.co.uk/flash/index.html



Be sure & put on the Moparguy BHAF. It'll all but eliminate the HX40 lag.

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by HoleshotHolset

Piers' super turbo flows like an HX-40 and spools 10x's better.

This is untrue. Piers will admit that the HX40 has better topend, and in a "race" if two trucks are similiarly equipped the HX40 equipped truck will win vs the Piers turbo truck, this is not an "assumtion", this is straight from Piers. If I didn't have an auto truck I would have an HX40, I have one sitting right here in the box. You can only run the Piersturbo to 35 to 36psi and keep it in its effiecency map.



Why would you want a non wastegated HX40? You'll need it to keep the boost to around 45psi, because once ya get around 50psi they get unhappy. Just curious why your asking bout one with no wastegate?

 

[SLang]

I do not really understand the exact part # thing either, but when asked they showed 4+ part #'s. That is for the non-wastegated. They also sell prefabed adapters to mate the non-wastegate flange to the wastegate manifold. They know all of this but do not know which turbo I need or the differances between part #'s. These guys are right around the corner and will warrenty the turbo (either their warrenty of cummins I don't know).



What I was hoping was that someone had one lying around that could spitout the part # from the top of the box. So how 'bout it?



Wastegates are just that a waste. Any and all control of you boost, EGT, fuel pressure level, acceloration, etc. are all controlled by your right foot. That is why my AFC housing and wastegate line went bye-bye. If I want fuel I don't want any mechanical resistance.

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by SLang

What I was hoping was that someone had one lying around that could spitout the part # from the top of the box. So how 'bout it?

The one I have is wastegated I'll get the part number off of it after I eat dinner.

 

[SlyBones]

Originally posted by KatDiesel

This is untrue. Piers will admit that the HX40 has better topend, and in a "race" if two trucks are similiarly equipped the HX40 equipped truck will win vs the Piers turbo truck, this is not an "assumtion", this is straight from Piers. If I didn't have an auto truck I would have an HX40, I have one sitting right here in the box. You can only run the Piersturbo to 35 to 36psi and keep it in its effiecency map.

Doesnt the PDR turbo have better bottom end, IE spool up?



This is prolly why Piers has on his site that its for trucks up to 350HP.



However there are those on this site with 400+ HP that have taken off an HX40, installed PDR Modified HX35, and stated here in public that they like it better. Now maybe this guys truck did just loose a tenth in the 1/4 mi. But there must be some reason why its liked it so much better. -- Also I have heard of people testing Piers turbo at 50+ psi and not having granade problems. Not that this is recommended, but at least its reliable.

 

[F Simkowski (In Memory)]

This is going over to the Products/Accessories Forum for exposure.

Frank S.

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by SlyBones

Doesnt the PDR turbo have better bottom end, IE spool up?



This is prolly why Piers has on his site that its for trucks up to 350HP.



However there are those on this site with 400+ HP that have taken off an HX40, installed PDR Modified HX35, and stated here in public that they like it better. Now maybe this guys truck did just loose a tenth in the 1/4 mi. But there must be some reason why its liked it so much better. -- Also I have heard of people testing Piers turbo at 50+ psi and not having granade problems. Not that this is recommended, but at least its reliable.

Yes the Piers Turbo has good spool up, but it has nuthing on the highend like an HX40 does. Its more then just a tenth in the 1/4, its worth a couple MPH. An HX40 on an auto truck and a standard truck are two different worlds. Yes you can run Piers turbo higher then 35 psi, but at that point your creating too much heat, and your "higher" boost is actually working against you due to the heat. Thats why effciency maps of turbos are important to consider, you don't just crank up the boost to 45psi and be happy, your "canceling" yourself out. You have to find the "fineline" where the effciency map ends. While it may be reliable at that pressure, its well past the effciency range. And I do have 400+ hp. Would be nice to come up with a turbo that has the low end of the Piers Turbo and the highend of an HX40, best of both worlds.

 

[SlyBones]

So we have the PDR turbo for the up-to 350 HP folks, and twins for the completely radical folks, HX40's for the 400-500 HP guys, if you have a manual. What about auto's. Stick with the PDR??

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by SlyBones

So we have the PDR turbo for the up-to 350 HP folks, and twins for the completely radical folks, HX40's for the 400-500 HP guys, if you have a manual. What about auto's. Stick with the PDR??

Depends really, on ones driving style. But yes I would say Piers Turbo for 350hp type trucks is a great choice. Twins, depends on what your looking for. Piers said twins really won't help in a 1/4 mile run..... (in my situation). But I would say the PDR turbo is a great turbo for autos and most everyone, I like it. It all depends on your drving style and what you like and don't like about it. I reread my above reply, for the record the PDR turbo spools pretty quickly, it however doesn't have the mid to topend the HX40 has.



Like I said I would love to have the spool up of the PDR turbo (is as quick as my HY35 was) and the mid to highend of an HX40! Once I get a "parts" car so to speak then I will try different turbos, right now I drive my truck everyday so can't really afford to experiment, once I get a 2nd vehicle (Challenger don't count) then I have some flexability, looking at some 93 Eagle Talons.

 

[KatDiesel]

Part number for a HX40 w/16cm housing with wastegate



3591018 HX40V (not sure if the V is supposed to be a W that rubbed off). This is on the box, and the number is on the housing on a tag. Built Aug 00

 

[SlyBones]

ok Kat,

you have me sitting here thinking about all kinds of stuff that I know nothing about, and of course, want to know. Efficiency maps... . Inquiring minds gotta know... ...



So is the real problem with a HX35 running 45psi boost, is that it cannot expell the air fast enough, causing things to back up? Air flow starts to decrease again. Is this the cancelling out you mean?



Does the efficiency map improve with a harger housing like a 14 or 16, and a 4" downpipe for example. IE why we lower EGT's when and slight HP improvement when adding these? -- The assumption would be there is a point of no return. Meaning you just cannot increase the housing and exhaust infinitely. The turbo itself has a limit.



So does this mean the KwikKurt ( sp ? sorry ) smaller housings for the HX40's are reducing its efficiency map?

 

[KatDiesel]

Re: ok Kat,

Originally posted by SlyBones

you have me sitting here thinking about all kinds of stuff that I know nothing about, and of course, want to know. Efficiency maps... . Inquiring minds gotta know... ...



So is the real problem with a HX35 running 45psi boost, is that it cannot expell the air fast enough, causing things to back up? Air flow starts to decrease again. Is this the cancelling out you mean?



Does the efficiency map improve with a harger housing like a 14 or 16, and a 4" downpipe for example. IE why we lower EGT's when and slight HP improvement when adding these? -- The assumption would be there is a point of no return. Meaning you just cannot increase the housing and exhaust infinitely. The turbo itself has a limit.



So does this mean the KwikKurt ( sp ? sorry ) smaller housings for the HX40's are reducing its efficiency map?

The effciency map directly corrlates to the "compressor" of the turbo. The HX40 has a bigger compressor then the HX35, therefore it doesn't have to spin as hard to make the same air. When you run any turbo out of its effciency map, then you are having to spin so fast, your heating the air up. The less you have to "Work" the turbo to get teh same amount of boost, the better off you are.



I can't answer the question on the KwikKurt turbo, but I have a new found interest in the turbo thing so I'll be talking to him about it soon, and hopfully get to try some.



I am by no means an expert on this, but I am learning more and more, so keep asking whenever ya think of a question. Does the above post explain it any better?

 

[SLang]

Efficiency maps are not dependant on exhaust housing. You can download the maps for both the 35 and 40 on Holsets page. The maps are pressure ratio vs. Kg/sec (volume). Notice that the map starts above 1 meaning 1 ATM and end around 4 ATM. There are 14. 7 PSI to 1 ATM meaning 4 ATM is 48. 8 PSI. Notice the 35 shuts off lower then 4 ATM which is why noone sees more than 41-42 PSI no matter how hard you run it. The 40 shuts off above 4 ATM so it can produce 50+ PSI. Really the turbo should be able to run all the way up the striaght line without hurting it. I do not know why people have had problems with the 40 above 50 PSI. I just hope I do not have the same (ready please be lucky).



Now the turbo housing depends on use. Usually you will size the exhaust large enough that excessive back pressure is not present in the exhaust manifold. On a racing application you would go smaller to make sure you can get the max power to the ground.



That's the short take. And my take on it.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

GOOD INFO!!!

This is the stuff I have been waiting for!

I have always been wondering if anyone had the compressor maps for the turbos we have been beating the ever living crap out of. These maps show that we're not really overdoing it too badly... . very impressive!



Keep this thread going!! This is one thread I have been waiting a long time to materialize... . !!



Excessive use of 'edit' button: In my gasser racing world we use a/r ratios on the turbine housing that I'm used to... like: . 63, . 83, 1. 14, 1. 40... . and all I see with the Holset on my CTD and the Mitsubishi turbo on my other vehicle are metric figures like: 8cm, 12cm, 14cm, 18cm..... how can I convert the metric stuff to rough #'s like Garrett uses? (I'm just trying to guesstimate how big stuff in the diesel world is compared to my gasser stuff... . so far, it's pretty big. )



Matt

 

[KatDiesel]

You can download the "Service" repair manulas for different turbos. I have 4 different ones..... they are in .pdf format.



I can't get any info on it but I am curious bout an HY40V