Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) HX35W Turbo help needed

[JesseGray]

I understand that the 1997 Ram came stock with a HX35W turbo with a 12cm2 turbine housing and a 54mm compressor inducer. The turbo did not seem to kick in till about 1900rpm and pulling my trailer in the Rockeys and Cascades, this was not good.



I just installed an HTT HX35/40W quick spool Hybrid High Performance Turbo, H Charger 60 which is a 12cm2 turbine housing and a 60mm compressor inducer. My turbo now seems to kick in at 2300rpm (+/-). With more air, more fuel, more heat, my egts are up 300 at 900 degrees. My boost also dropped from 21 to 18.



I was hoping that the turbo and boost would start closer to 1600rpm.



Did I goof up or do I need to do something more? I am attempting to get more torque and hp so that I do not have to shift on the grades so early.



I have a K&N filter and a 4" turbo back exhaust, but have done nothing to the pump and no large injectors yet.



If I sound confused, I am. On my 1991, I went from a stock 20cm2 turbine housing and 50mm compressor inducer to an HTT 16cm2 turbine housing and 52mm compressor inducer. Now that truck will run circles around this newer one. No turbo lag, and plenty of git up and go.



Thank you for your advise and hints.

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

You might try sliding the AFC housing forward, and turning the starwheel towards the front of the engine. That should give you more pre-boost fueling to help light the charger. Is your truck an auto, or 5-speed?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

you need to tweak the pump BIG TIME... loosen up the AFC stat!

 

[TyThompson]

Agreed, in order to get boost sooner, you need fuel sooner...

 

[JesseGray]

Rams-n-Hogs, Forrest Nearing, Ty Thompson thank you for your advise. Along with the star wheel and the fuel plate, what effect will 300hp injectors make in getting early fuel?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

a lot



they'll also help get the EGT's up there

 

[C. Harlan]

Also, if you are using the stock air box, you may want to look into an open air intake, like a mega cannon from AFE... Makes a HUGE difference. I was using my stock air box with my stock turbo when I grenaded it @ 51 psi. . After that, I was sold on more air box. . Just something you may want to consider.



-Chris-

 

[Howard Durand]

Make sure the hose connections from the turbo to intake all fit properly and are tight.

 

[JesseGray]

Thanks guys I will start checking all of those items suggested. Another suggestion from an outside source said to go with the 300 hp injectors. What is your opinion regarding that??

 

[CogginsP]

My opinion would be don't worry about the injectors right away. Your 97 injectors will work fine until you start getting that turbo to spool. You can mod your p-pump to get plenty of fuel to go along with that turbo without injectors. Once you have it finely tuned, then throw those injectors in there.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

agreed, you can make enough power w/ the stock injectors to fry the clutch or hurt the automatic transmission

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

agreed, you can make enough power w/ the stock injectors to fry the clutch or hurt the automatic transmission

I'll agree with this, too. You'll be surprised what tweaking the pump, and putting in a different plate can do.

 

[dpuckett]

Check your turbo flange outlet to elbow connection. First time I did a turbo R&R, I didnt get things quite squared away and tight. Had a terrible boost leak. I'd think that is where your boost is going- if you went to a bigger compressor, kept the same ex hsg size, and dropped boost, along with a raise in EGT, that all leads to air leak(s).



Daniel

 

[JesseGray]

Thanks for the tip. I will start checking all of my induction connectors.

 

[tp0d]

My turbo now seems to kick in at 2300rpm (+/-). With more air, more fuel, more heat, my egts are up 300 at 900 degrees. My boost also dropped from 21 to 18.

From what you've said, it sounds like your pyrometer probe is post-turbo, and not pre-turbo. Gotta watch those numbers closer if its post, as they`ll be between 300 and 350°f lower than a pre-turbo probe. (meaning if you show 1000 or 1100 post-turbo, you're really at a critical limit of 1300 or 1400 preturbo)

Definetly dump the K&N, they let way too much dust/etc in, and the stock airbox doesnt allow enough breathing. Get yourself a BHAF, theyre available at NAPA, cross reference part number AH19037. It will hook up to the stock hose with the airbox gone of course, just do a few searches for more install info.

good luck

-j

 

[JesseGray]

I will check out the BAHF at NAPA next time we go to town.



My pyro probe is pre-turbo in the exhaust manifold. That is one reason the higher has me a little baffled. One gentleman suggested that I might have gotten my induction tubes seated correctly and leak free. I have to check that tomorrow.

 

[JGrover]

Loosen up the starwheel a bit for now. Should get your turbo spooling. You can get big pulling power with just a plate.

Make sure you mark your stock plate position real good so you know where you started at. Hopefully you have a manual trans.

With a 5 speed and stock clutch. I would still put a #10 plate in. With a Auto, do more research. Have read prievious post on TDR that, Moving the #10 plate back (less fuel) . 040 from stock position. The stock clutch will hold. You will probably need the 14cm wastegated exhaust houseing.