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Hydraulic Experts???

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Advice on selling 2017 Sanibel model 3251

TT Remodel

Changed out my hydraulic pump and all went well, it was not lifting the front rams very well. Added fluid and extended front rams then disconnected from truck. Did not cycle anything.

A few days later I retracted the slides and hooked to the truck to head to SoCal. I raised the front rams and then the drivers side ram started drifting down. GRRRRRRR. I then extended and retracted the fronts several times and still it started to drift down.

I had my friend rebuild the rams already with quality parts and I know that is NOT the issue as the RV never drops after disconnecting and leveling.

So I hooked up a strap and headed south. Along the way I noticed the other started doing the same. I drilled they the steel collar and drilled self drilling screws into the silver steel sleeve to hold the rams up when in transit. This had worked for 1.5 months. Been too busy with other things to do anything about it!

My thought is a solenoid is not shutting off when retracted alowing fluid to push past to allow the ram to start dropping.

I have no idea how this system works and what valves do what.

Any help is appreciated. This is on my 2015 39TKSB3 Mobile Suites.
 
Hi Ron,

I've had both front jacks and the associated actuators for front collapsing AND jacks dropping while towing. No more problem with legs dropping while towing, but I have to place two 12-ton jackstands under the front as the front of the RV would eventually collapse without them.

I would call Lippert Technical, tell them what going on, and see what they advise. Since it is pressure that holds the legs up, could be bleeding past as mine weren't just dropping from the weight of the legs, they were being firced down with pressure bleeding past the valves on the actuator. Ask if they can send you an installtion manual to assist your efforts. They may advise you to do some testing first, but I'm thinking likely bad actuator.

If you decide to work on them yourself, you can hitch up or I prefer 12-ton jackstands I purchased at Northern Tools. If you decide to not do it yourself, you may need to take it to a service center, but you know that could be lengthy.

Hope this helps. Please keep us informed of your progress.

Christmas Cheers, Ron
 
sounds like you may have air in the system. Did you cycle the system to get enough air our with the self bleeding system.
 
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Generally, the best way to purge air is to stroke the cylinders to the stop with no load, but that requires supporting the trailer above hitch height by some other means.
 
Should be a hydraulic lock valve / pilot valve somewhere in the system...the same principle that keeps a crane up on it's hydraulic outriggers for days on end....

Now as to what half arse system Lippert choses to implement is anyone's guess...but campers dropping, legs falling, etc. is not a good thing...
 
Should be a hydraulic lock valve / pilot valve somewhere in the system...the same principle that keeps a crane up on it's hydraulic outriggers for days on end....

Now as to what half arse system Lippert choses to implement is anyone's guess...but campers dropping, legs falling, etc. is not a good thing...
I don't have a gate code anymore, but I could drive around the storage yard where we kept the toy hauler, and at any given time there would probably be half a dozen fivers with Lippert jacks kneeling on the ground.
 
Ron,

On edit, pull slides in and cycle auto level a few times, like suggested. There is no valve lock safety feature. Something I'm adding to my preventative maintenance (PM), is each month, remove front jack stands, manually raise rears, then cycle auto level a couple times. As a preventative measure, I'm going to add retaining chains and clamps to the rears in the event they ever start collapsing on the road.

Anyhoo, hope you get it figured out. We're in San Antonio TX and if all else fails might could come up after the holidays to help.

Christmas Cheers, Ron
 
I have the level up system on my Cedar Creek which I believe is a Lippert Component. This is from my memory since my trailer is in a storage yard about 30 min's away. If you have any air in the system anywhere I believe there will be issues. There are three valves that control the raising and lowering of the legs along with a pressure switch in a 6-point system) which can be placed in a manifold close to the pump. If air is present the pressure switch may not be closing correctly. Cycle the legs and slides in an out to work the air out of the system.
You need to stroke the legs to full extension and retract to minimum stroke, which can be done without being connected to the truck. How do I know? My wife lower the trailer once by collapsing the front legs by accident when we were getting ready to hook-up.

I have also included the Lippert manual on the 4/6-point level up system. See page 14 and 15 for the 6-point system. The title page states 4-piont but the 6-point is covered also.

LIPPERT COMPONENTS LEVEL-UP OWNER'S MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib

Let us know if this helps?
 
Man, I am glad I just have electric jacks front and manuals on the back. My trailer is only 30 feet long though. Setup is easy. Cordless drill for rear jacks. We go to some pretty remote spots and I am a moron regarding hydraulics so simple is better.
 
I have Slade's direct number. I will probably call him first then Lippert if needed. Bought our Mobile Suites from him and his wife Alicia.

I have cycled the slides and all six rams many times since we left WA late October. I really doubt it's an air issue. The four rears don't drop it's only the front two. There does seem to be a bit of pressure as one #10 screw sheered off. I replaced that now with a 1/4" diameter screw and has not broken it .

Below is what someone posted on another Forum

"I had this once. I had retracted the rams to where I thought they were all the way in. One started drifting down. I used the sequence in the manual:
4. Connect tow vehicle and make sure travel trailer and hitch are connected and locked.
5. Push “UP” arrow until ”AUTO RETRACT” appears in LCD screen.
6. Push “ENTER.” System will immediately retract all jacks.

Haven't had the problem since!"
 
Man, I am glad I just have electric jacks front and manuals on the back. My trailer is only 30 feet long though. Setup is easy. Cordless drill for rear jacks. We go to some pretty remote spots and I am a moron regarding hydraulics so simple is better.


Electric can be an issue also. So far it has not stopped me from staying setup or traveling.
 
Did you review the Lippert's manual that I provided? On one of the front landing legs there is solenoid valve (see page 8) in the instructions for the landing legs there is a set screw on top of the solenoid valve that must be opened to allow manual operation (see page 9). In the maintenance section page 11, item 5 instructs you that the set screw should be turned in the counterclockwise position after service.

Just a suggestion that this manual override set screw could have moved to the clockwise position slightly and this could be allowing the leg to drop. I would check that the set screw is in the correct position and tight.
 
Man, I am glad I just have electric jacks front and manuals on the back. My trailer is only 30 feet long though. Setup is easy. Cordless drill for rear jacks. We go to some pretty remote spots and I am a moron regarding hydraulics so simple is better.

On my Keystone Cougar which had a electrical landing legs, I would shear the small diameter bolt at least once a year for the front landing gears. The bolt went through a cross drilled hole that held the cross over shaft in synchronization with both legs. The motor had too much torque and would shear the small grade 5 bolt on retraction over time. I carried spares bolts and nuts after the first time. I went to extend the legs when only one leg would extend, the bolt failed at home. I was able to get a similar diameter bolt and nut to fit. In the Lippert instructions said this was a safety feature to protect the motor and gears on the front legs.
 
Here are pics of my system.

6771F5FD-1861-43AE-ABD5-B4CDA242D512.jpeg
E2BE708B-CBD3-464A-B4BE-A97585211C31.jpeg
836A9BA9-7A4C-4414-859E-07FB34DEC0DC.jpeg
 
So looking at my pic 3 and looking up at the bottom of the solenoid valve I should make sure it's tight by turning Allen wrench counterclockwise. Correct?

Think I will wait until we get back to our lot to drop the front to the ground. :eek:
 
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