Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Hydroboost Removal Instructions (lots of photos)

[firefighter_2000]

This post will hopefully help anyone who needs to replace a hydro boost on a 2nd generation truck (Mine is a 1999 2wd). I've detailed the removal & installation as well as I could. The unit i used is a remanufactured unit from A-1 Cardone that I picked up at Oreilleys for just under 175. 00. The part number is 52-7354. Go ahead and pick up an extra quart of power steering fluid as well as some gojo wipes while you're there. There are some parts that have to be re-used on the new unit and that will be shown as well. They are the pushrod/spring assembly for the master cylinder, and the flange that mounts to the front of the hydroboost as well as the seal.





Here's a photo right before starting the work. The hard line on the right side was leaking as well as inside the truck where the brake pedal linkage comes out of the unit. I had some leakage on the firewall.



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Remove the two 9/16" bolts holding the master cylinder to the hydroboost. There are actually four bolts and the one Im removing here is not necessary at this point.



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Break the master cylinder loose from the hydroboost. Notice the black plate at the front of the mounting surface of the master cylinder. Its a bracket that holds the hydraulic lines. It will come into play later.



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Break the top line loose with an 18 mm wrench.



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Break the side line loose as well.



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There's not a lot of room to use a full length wrench in here. I ended up taking my 19mm flar nut crows foot wrench used on the injector lines to finish taking the nut out once I broke it loose with the 18mm wrench. I ONLY USED IT BY HAND so as not to damage the threads. Just a little tip here:



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Remove the rubber line. Pull the clamp back and pull hard. This one had 260k miles on it. It was a bit hard to remove but it came off with some manipulation.



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Pull the lines back out of the way. The bracket will move back as well. Notice the o-rings on the end of the hard lines. The new hydroboost comes with new o-rings for those lines. As I sit and write this, I realize that I didn't replace them. I think the guy at Oreilleys laid them out on the counter and didnt put them back in the box when we put it back inside the box...



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[firefighter_2000]

Continued

Pull the master cylinder back and push it down. The lines will bend. Just dont bend too much.



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Move inside the truck. Remove the knee bolster. This is the pushrod that attaches to the pedal. There are four 15 mm bolts on the firewall holding the hydroboost to the firewall.



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The metal clip & washer that holds the pushrod to the pedal. Just pry it off. It's a PITA to remove but it does come off.



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The top right bolt is accessed through a hole in the plate above the bracket that holds the brake light switch. Its way up high, and you need a LONG extension to get to it with a deep well socket. Look way up there. . It's HIGH.



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This is the extensions I scrounged up reach it with my impact driver.



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Once the four bolts are removed, and the pushrod is taken off, head back out under the hood. Pull the lines back out of the way (maneuver the bracket out from around the master cylinder as seen here), then pull the hydroboost unit out of the truck.



NOTE: When you remove the unit from the truck the brake pedal will fall, causing the brake lights to stay on. I propped my pedal up with a block of wood to keep the brake lights off. Depending on how long you take, it could potentially drain your battery



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Here's the old unit.



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[firefighter_2000]

Continued

Inside the front. Notice the flange held on with the two 9/16" bolts. It must be removed & re-used.



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Remove the two bolts and remove the flange.



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Pull the pushrod, spring, retainer, and nylon washer out. I just used a flat screw driver to pry out one "ear" of the retainer at a time til it was all the way out.



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Re-install just like it comes out. I used my fingers on one side and the tips of a wrench to push it all back down inside.



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Re-install the flange. NOTICE: That rubber seal goes between the master cylinder and the hydro boost. I laid it up there just for the photo. It must be placed on the end of the master cylinder. DONT LOOSE IT!



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Remove this rubber plug and re-install on the new unit. It seals around the pushrod to keep air out at the fire wall Im guessing.



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[firefighter_2000]

Installation

Installation is reverse of removal. It is just a bit of a PITA getting it all back together but totally worth doing yourself. I was quoted 450 for the job at a local shop. I did it for the cost of the hydroboost, one quart of PS fluid, and some gojo wipes.



Be sure and bleed the system when you're done.



Fill the power steering reservior to the top. Start the truck for 5-10 seconds & shut it down. Push down on the brakes 4-5 times. Start the truck back up, turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times. Shut down the truck & check power steering fluid and fill as necessary. Restart the truck & do a combination of braking and steering lock to lock. Shut down truck once again and check & refill power steering fluid as necessary. Test drive the truck.



Here is a photo of the finished work.



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Hope this will help someone!



Craig

 

[klcammie]

great write up. i will save it since i have small leak. when it gets biger will need this writeup.

 

[OakViewJeff]

Craig:
Great procedure, but no pictures. I need to do this same job on my '99 truck with 298K. Do you know why there are no pictures?
Thanks,
Jeff

 

[rotohead]

Craig:
Great procedure, but no pictures. I need to do this same job on my '99 truck with 298K. Do you know why there are no pictures?
Thanks,
Jeff

Yeah, that sucks as I had saved this thread for future reference. Probably the OP used something like photobucket to host his pics and no longer has the account. Maybe someone on TDR had saved the entire thread including pics that could repost just the pics. I'd love to have those pics too. Just my luck I post this and my ABS system starts acting up.