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Off Roading Hyrdaulic Steering Options Ram Assist Vs Full

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Off Roading First enduro last sunday (LONG)

Competition Jesup, Ga tractor pull this year?

I've gone through about 6 steering gears, last leg of my 4th pump, couple of steering columns, etc. Since this truck was stock, i've never had good steering. When i bought the truck with over 92,000 miles, the steering had lots of play and felt very heavy at the wheel. Never been able to turn the tires without the truck moving. Applying the brakes while moving makes it harder to steer even at speeds near 30 mph.



I've spent well over $2,000 trying a variety of parts from PSC and others. Custom pitman arms, even a few Hummer reverse rotation quick ratio, light valving boxes. I'm now running all 2006 Ford parts from the steering column at the firewall down to the axles. However, the axle sits over an inch forward of stock.



PSC made me an extended pitman arm. I've had a custom panhard rod built so that my linkage is about as perfectly lined up as it can be, aside from the overextending pitman arm. Bump steer was very bad before the new panhard rod but will still break knuckes and fingers off road. I've had the wheel ripped from my hands many times by large boulders.



I like how quick the steering is, though i haven't counted how many turns it is lock to lock since it really doesn't like to make turns. I'm pushing tires that measure about 34. 5"x13" when aired up to their max of 50 psi. Even like this i can barely make slow maneuvers on the street. Even making turns from a stop light is hard work.



Off road i get much better traction and ride quality when aired down to 20 psi but when i get back on the street, my truck takes up both lanes when making turns, lots of switchbacks in the mountains. When going uphill on pavement i can usually give enough pedal to swing the back tires around but i don't always have that option and it scares people.



I've modified my Saginaw pump by removing the shims, stretching the spring past 2", and relieving lots of metal from the main fitting. Steering felt slightly easier each time i drilled a little more, but the pump whines badly when cold or when turning. Replaced the hydroboost after having it tested over 1,400 psi pre hyrdoboost, less than 32 psi post. Haven't had the new one tested yet but it feels much better for the brakes.



The donor engine had vacuum brakes so there is only one return fitting into the pump. I've tried running lines directly from the pump to the steering with zero improvement. Also tried disconnecting a T fitting and having the second return line dump into the pump with the lid off and that also made no difference.



I was recently in Rollinsville and talked with Phat Jeeps about my steering situation. He was suggesting longer knuckles on the axle, which would be no different from a shorter pitman arm, right? And i would lose not only the quickness of my steering, but also the turning radius, which is excellent when i'm able to wrestle the wheel all the way.



His other suggestion was full hyrdaulic steering. I've been doing a lot of reading on it can can't find any verification that it is illegal for street use. Most heavy equipment uses no mechanical linkage but has no difficulty steering. The benefits seem enormous. The possibility of blowing a line and having no steering is discomforting. Return to center is not a concern of mine and yes, you can still steer even if the engine is not running.



I used to run a PSC ram with my stock axle and suspension, then using the Saginaw 808 gears, but it made absolutely no difference in my steering. Perhaps it didn't work because my hydroboost was not allowing enough flow or pressure. I've since been skeptical of a ram assist's abilities.



My question is, what should i do? Try another ram, perhaps bigger like an 8"x2", or start experimenting with full hydraulic steering? Would a 2" diameter ram be too slow on the street? Would it even be strong enough off road? I wouldn't mind the super responsiveness off full hydraulic steering on the street. I have about an inch of play in my wheel now, all steering linkage is tight, i assume play is in the box. I just want to be able to turn my tires. I love to 4 wheel, but it is extremely difficult to manuever off road and is so bad that i need to fix it even for street use. I plan to add a locker and bigger tires in the future. Who's had what kind of success with which systems?



Thanks,

Matt
 
no one has shown me anything that says full hydro is illegal. benz cars are drive by wire...

i think that assist will be your best bet. The full hydro is too sensitive for high speed driving.

I run assist on my 97 gasser trail rig, which still sees occasional highway duty at speed for long distances. Its a PSC p-pump with small reservior, PSC remote reservior mounted ahead of my driver side battery, Hayden cooler and PSC steering gear. The ram is 1. 5"x8". I do have Thuren crossover steering as well that the ram is mounted to.

I can turn my 37" creepy crawlers at idle RPM stopped on the street with one finger, in 4wd with my front locker. The tires and knuckles don't like it, but i can do it.

I used to run it with a reman 3500 steering gear that was tapped by West Texas Offroad. The PSC box is much nicer, but the WTO box did work as advertised.

Of all the changes you have made, were they a matched setup? Sounds like the whole system needs attention rather than piece-wise fixes.

It also sounds like your pump is not putting out the pressures/flow you need for your application. Have you verified the pump output?
 
I called PSC yesterday and talked to Kelvin about it again. He's familiar with my setup since i've been dealing with them for years. Said he's seen stock Excursions come in there that couldn't turn at a stop but nothing that sounded as bad as mine. My tires may not be huge, but the weight of the Cummins and the huge bumper i've built add a lot of stress. I estimate this truck weighs about 10,000 lbs but have yet to put it on a scale.

We're assuming that since my hydroboost was bad, that is why my old ram didn't improve my steering. I took my truck to a shop a couple months ago and had the system pressure tested so i know i'm putting out more than 1,450 psi-that's where their gauge maxed out.

PSC is sending me a used 1. 75"x8" ram to try. Since i've been a customer for several years and have spent a small fortune with them, he said they'll work with me as best they can. He was confident that since i've modified both my pump and my hydroboost, that this ram should cure my problems.

He said a 2" ram would have very slow steering response and advised i not go that big. He said that this 1. 75" ram might see fluid fast enough that it could make up for the play in my steering gear. I'm hoping it will enable me to turn my tires and keep the wheel from getting jerked out of my hands. If the sector shaft or any other mechanical linkage does break, i'll have the ram as backup. If this doesn't work, i guess i'll have to consider ditching the box in favor of an orbital valve. I would much rather make what i have work better than convert all over again. For those of you with experience either way, did you have hydroboost as well?
 
I received two emails from Hydraulic Steering resellers and they said they didn't think it was street legal. DOT aparently wants either some sort of linkage or a self centering mechanism. Google it and it looks "sketchy at best"

I think in any case, you're probably not going to get arrested, however most would agree that you don't want "total loss of control" if a failure would occur.

Consider writing an email for the tech depts of AGR, Howe, and PSC. My assist was made of matched components and immediately noticeable. You are turning relatively small tires, Im guessing that their was a mismatch somewhere.

Check out this link:
Welcome to AGR Perfomance, Inc.

I know that the suppliers/vendors are going to label all of their products 'off-road use only' for liability reasons and will never tell you otherwise. still, no one has shown me proof that its not legal.

as for AGR, I'd search several forums/sites for reviews of thier products. they used to be a great company when Tom owned it. He now owns/runs PSC and makes good stuff. The AGR quality went down after it was bought from Tom.

Both PSC and Howe make nice stuff. Howe is high end and fancy, not sure how much better it actually performs over the PSC stuff though.
 
PSC is sending me a used 1. 75"x8" ram to try. Since i've been a customer for several years and have spent a small fortune with them, he said they'll work with me as best they can. He was confident that since i've modified both my pump and my hydroboost, that this ram should cure my problems.

He said a 2" ram would have very slow steering response and advised i not go that big. He said that this 1. 75" ram might see fluid fast enough that it could make up for the play in my steering gear. I'm hoping it will enable me to turn my tires and keep the wheel from getting jerked out of my hands. If the sector shaft or any other mechanical linkage does break, i'll have the ram as backup. If this doesn't work, i guess i'll have to consider ditching the box in favor of an orbital valve. I would much rather make what i have work better than convert all over again. For those of you with experience either way, did you have hydroboost as well?

The 2" is too big for assist. The 1. 75" might be okay, but if you are running a D60, then the 8" throw will be too much. IIRC, the 60 is a 6" throw with the stock length steering arms. 8" is for a D44.
 
The axles under my truck are out of a 2006 Ford F-350 1 ton pickup that had a 5. 4 Liter gasoline powered V-8. My longer pitman arm enables me to take advantage of its extremely tight turning radius. The newer Dana 60s have very short knuckles.

As is, i have over 7" of throw, measured from one spot on the axle straight out to the tie rod while someone else held the steering wheel with the wheels turned all the way to the left, then all the way to the right. I plan to grind my steering stops so that i can turn even further since they currently hit as is.

I think 8" will be just perfect. Their other option is 6" unless i have a ram cylinder custom made. I assume that unlike full hydraulic rams, this assist cylinder won't sheer any axle parts.
 
as long as the piston travel matches the available swing of the knuckles, you will be okay. make sure that the stub-main shaft angles at full lock are within the range available of the ujoints and the axle clearances. just being safe.

Andres, I am not trying to get into a ******* match either. Its just that I have yet to have one person on my site be happy with their post-shakeup AGR products.
 
To update i have installed my ram. Followed the entire procedure as instructed, jacked up the front end and tightened the gear box before installing. Never found a heavy spot or resistance over center so i simply tightened it down to where the sector shaft no longer moved up and down.

The ram works. For the first time ever i am able to turn my tires at a dead stop, even with my foot on the brake. It is also acting well as a super steering stabilizer. On the street, i had immediate steering response. It was awesome, couldn't move the wheel 1 cm without the truck following every tiny nudge. Most people would probably call it overly sensitive but i liked it.

Took it 4 wheeling this weekend to really see how it would do. Aired down to 18 psi. Was still unable to turn the wheel against big objects like a rock face. In fact, such objects still pushed my tires against the way i wanted and were still almost impossible to overcome. Some slow steering maneuvers still required full strength from both arms but for the most part, it was a totally new experience being able to steer and not having the wheel ripped from my hands.

While on the trails i felt like my steering was no longer as tight. On the street i figured it was just because my tires were so low on air. Parking in tight spaces like at a restaurant with the group was once again not easy, required both arms. I've noticed that there is sometimes initial resistance in my steering that takes a second to overcome, then gets easy. Does it almost everytime if i turn quickly from one direction to the other.

With my tires aired back up to 50 psi, i am certain that my steering is no longer as tight. Where at first i couldn't wiggle my wheel at speed without the truck weaving harshly, i now can wiggle a good inch back and forth without it weaving. Steering was a little heavier at first with the ram after tightening the box, and is now noticeably lighter. This is all within about 3 days.

I was almost perfectly happy with it at first but am disappointed that the crispness is already gone. I am concerned that this means my box was not up to the task of being tightened. I know i got the nuts tight but i will check them again to make sure it is not something i can simply cure. I will also check for movement in the sector shaft but i visually inspected and saw that my pitman arm is still on tight.

Really hoped that an 8" x 1. 75" ram would be strong enough against any obstacle but it really was impossible before the ram so i guess that was optimistic. I just hope my steering doesn't loosen up anymore. Could be that the increased force brought on wear elsewhere so i'll have to check. Another observation is that the steering pump now only whines when turned all the way and held there. Also, the pump puked out quite a bit, especially once off road and won't hold nearly as much as it used to, but that doesn't seem to be an issue so far.
 
Hi Andres,

Not 40 times, but i did know to turn lock to lock until i purged the air out of the system before starting the engine. I didn't have a manual, just followed the instructions i was given over the phone and from doing this serveral times now. I kept filling and turning until no more fluid came out of the pump with the engine off.

When i first test drove more fluid purged. When off road even more fluid puked out. I wonder if the fluid is getting too hot, sure is working hard. I'm using the stock Ford steering cooler and stock Cummins pump mounted canister.

I have an old PSC reservoir. Would adding it help by using more fluid to keep it cooler or just store more hot fluid? A trip to Avalanche Enginerring would be awesome, they build really cool stuff.
 
a remote reservoir will help in cooling. its simply more surface area for the fluid to dissipate heat through. a good reservoir also allows more room for the fluid to expand when hot. it also allows a slightly greater pressure drop on the return line as the fluid can expand into the larger reservoir, thus helps with cooling ever so slightly.

the cooler routed so that the in is on the bottom and the out at the top? this way lets any air rise rather than fighting the fluid flow. easier to purge the lines that way.

are you using a finned cooler or stacked plate?
 
Without checking i'm almost positive it is finned. I'm not sure that cooler oil will help. My box is getting looser. Had some other issues to take care of but plan to check to see if the nuts are still tight tomorrow.
 
got some pics of your setup? there should be no reason your box is getting messed up unless your setup is not right.
 
If the volume of fluid into the cylinder is trying to stroke the cylinder further than the box is trying to move the steering, then the box will wear prematurely.



This is why you can't just switch piston diameter to make up for a force issue.



I'm looking at building my own system, home brew. Can you all tell me where the pressure for the ram is being tapped?

I was guessing from either side of the piston inside the PS Box?
 
I backed off the screw as advised by PSC and had way more play. Tightened it up and it was better but i haven't had time to really test it. Will hopefully go wheeling next weekend to see what it does. PSC said these Ford boxes are real tricky to tune.

The play in the box was there before the ram. Taps are on the engine side of the box behind the sector shaft.

When i have more time i'll try to get decent pics and report on how much play it has. Right now if i jiggle the wheel while driving i get wiggle before the tires move. Seems about the same if it is parked as well. Normal steering input seems to be following with good response in the city. Need to test more, will report.
 
Can any of you guys give me a link or a picture of where the ports are milled into the boxes? This has got me interested in building my own.
 
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